Off topic again....1999 ford contour fittings

All,

I apologize up front, I've been abusing this forum for any help I can get.

I;ve a ford contour, 4 cylinder, that I recently replaced the fuel pump on. The problem I;ve created was the fittings that go into the sending unit, well, I broke them, unintentionally.

Seems that I cannot find a replacement "ferrule" and click clamp, forgive my poor description. Went to the dealers and they informed me that that part is no longer available. Seems a shame to scrap a car for such a small part.

I guess I'll end up screwing a plate over the lines to keep them in the tank, then sealing the screws with gasoline-resistant epoxy.

(Part A of page P-33355 dated 07/11/2008)

What happened to hose clamps?!

D.
 
Ahhh yes I remember those lines , you had to push the line towards the pump and then push in on the little red or white or whatever color ring....hated those always seemed to stick . You are probably out of luck unless you can find something at a parts store maybe in HELP or Dorman they will have some repair ends . Definitely not one of Fords better car lines .
 
Local auto parts store carries many different styles of those fittings, some with short piece of plastic line attached. Don't know what sizes/sorts they all fit

Ross
 
The fuel pump will be a re-occurring problem with that car. I have that model car and have to replace a fuel pump every two years. I finally modified the body of the car enlarging the access hole so you can remove the fuel pump from under the back seat.

When replacing the fuel pump you might replace the entire canister with the sending unit. It's a lot easier than just replacing the fuel pump and would come everything.
 
It really surprises me that some of those contour/mystique cars are still on the road. As for the fuel line fittings I'm not sure if they were ever available separate from a fuel pump assy. You can still get the complete fuel pump assembly with the fittings attached but probably have to go aftermarket.

Don't feel bad about breaking them, I was replacing those fuel pumps under recalls and very new vehicles and still broke them on occasion, it wasn't a big deal when replacing the whole assembly. The metal lock rings were thinner and weaker than most others too, be careful not bend the ring taking off or on.
 
Best bet is a junkyard. There should be plenty of those cars there. The transmissions were not too strong in them. A "farmer fix" will not work = fuel system is supposed to be a SEALED SYSTEM that maintains a specific pressure (psiA) inside the tank. Without the correct pressure, the "check engine" light will come on and stay on. By pressure, I mean absolute pressure - with zero being an absolute vacuum and around 14.7 being normal atmospheric pressure.
Another suggestion is the Dorman section at your local parts store. They may have repair or replacement fittings that you can use.
 
(quoted from post at 06:07:10 06/16/15) The fuel pump will be a re-occurring problem with that car. I have that model car and have to replace a fuel pump every two years. I finally modified the body of the car enlarging the access hole so you can remove the fuel pump from under the back seat.

When replacing the fuel pump you might replace the entire canister with the sending unit. It's a lot easier than just replacing the fuel pump and would come everything.

If you have to replace a pump that often you have a dirty tank. It may be dirt are may just be a bad tank that's rusting. I have had a run on bad tanks the last 3 years are so most all of them mid to late 90's with the complaint fuel pumps only last a year are so... Next time use a mirror to inspect the under side of the top of the tank and the top sides of the tank... In the days of mechanical pumps a mechanical pump could survive rust but it will eat the rotors out of a electric pump :!: A rust free clean tank is a must for a pump to last...
 
I forgot to add, those red and white sleeves that you push 2 tabs to release the fuel line, if that's the only thing damaged then you will be ok. The sleeve can be pried up and off the fitting or then slip a screwdriver or slim forked tool like for trim clips to push the ring down and pull line up and off.

Its hard to explain but under the sleeve is basically the same fittings you can find on hard plastic air lines and some water lines. They just put that stupid 2-tab sleeve on there to "help" push the ring down.

Very close to these in the way it works
Pneumatic-Fittings-Air-Pipe-SPU-SPY-SPC-SPV-.jpg


DSC02043.jpg

DSC02047.jpg


Pics are not mine, found on the interwebs for reference
 
4play and others,

The picture of the red/white outer covers is what I am looking at. Unfortunately, the cover is ok, but thte "ferrule" on one of the lines is shattered.

I made one complete connection of the two, placed it one the fuel supply line, and the car started.

Now, I am thinking the return shouldn't see as much pressure, and am entertaining the idea of a lock wire to hold the return line in to o-ringed top-of-the-fuel-pump/sender assembly in place....bad idea?

Thanks again,

D.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top