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huffy mower

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blue924.9

Member
Rebuilding An 8 HP 26 Inch Deck Huffy Lawn mower, Yes Huffy As IN Huffy bikes, Made By The Huffman Company Circa The Mid 70s. Was wondering if anyone could tell me about them, they are an interesting mower and I am looking to completely restore this one and mow with it. It has a 4 speed and 8 hp briggs. I work at a jd dealer and am getting engine parts at discount from there.
 
Here are some pictures of them. I remember them being around but don't remember any details.
a193269.jpg

a193270.jpg
 
They were built in Dayton (Troy?) Ohio.

The Huffy "test track" was adjacent to theh engineering office where I worked on my first job out of undergraduate school in the 1970s.

Dean
 
that second pic is a pic of mine - how'd ya get that JD? Still have it setting up at the farm. I found the manuals for it on the web.
 
The ones below look very, very similar to my Falls. From what Ive learned about it here, Falls built them for Huffy and a few others.
Dont have a pic of it on this computer to upload, or I could show you. But I have an old thread on the garden tractor forum with a pic of
it.
 
Now Thats awesome. My Dad bought us a Huffy riding mower in the late 60s early 70s from PEPBOYS auto
parts store here in charlotte nc. Far as i can recall it was a single blade mowing deck. That was the
very first riding mower we ever had. I believe it had a 8hp briggs engine. It sure made my grass
cutting days alot easier. I also think it was a kinda light green in color and the hood was white
 
Got the electronic ignition conversion kit today, looks like it was on the shelf for awhile, instructions suck and Are from the 90s. Anyone converted small engines to electronic before?
 
Its been a while since I converted a magneto to electronic trigger, but curiously, that was a 4 hp. on a Huffy. (The points were glazing over and had to be cleaned every time I wanted to run the mower. If your Huffy was like mine (Dad's) you have to remove the steering wheel and hood to get to the flywheel.

I am guessing your kit hast the trigger in the clear-mostly clear-plastic and it just snaps over the magneto. It goes on the left side of the coil looking down on it with the sparkplug at the front. You just basically cut the wire to the points, route it to the spring loaded hook on the trigger and you are in business. You can leave the points in there, otherwise you need to plug the plunger hole so it won't ooze oil.

One thing: I was thinking that you could buy the entire ignition module with the trigger built into it for about the same money that you could buy one of those kits for.
 
(quoted from post at 19:15:12 06/10/15) Its been a while since I converted a magneto to electronic trigger, but curiously, that was a 4 hp. on a Huffy. (The points were glazing over and had to be cleaned every time I wanted to run the mower. If your Huffy was like mine (Dad's) you have to remove the steering wheel and hood to get to the flywheel.

I am guessing your kit hast the trigger in the clear-mostly clear-plastic and it just snaps over the magneto. It goes on the left side of the coil looking down on it with the sparkplug at the front. You just basically cut the wire to the points, route it to the spring loaded hook on the trigger and you are in business. You can leave the points in there, otherwise you need to plug the plunger hole so it won't ooze oil.

One thing: I was thinking that you could buy the entire ignition module with the trigger built into it for about the same money that you coumoduleld buy one of those kits for.
Click to expand...

I do believe it's the module, its clear and you can see the copper windings. The kit has the module, a metal key looking thing for a keyway and a wire with a loop end on it, the module also has an uninsulated wire on it. Plan on leaving points in so oil doesn't ooze oil and I will for sure need the hood off and I could see the wheel needing to come off as well. Thanks for the help the instructions confused me and I even work on mowers for a living lol
 
I'm not sure what the additional wire and loop end is for, now that I understand it some more I will re read the instructions
 
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