3010 Diesel hard to start

I have a 3010 diesel, approx 4500 hours, that I paid for conversion to 12 V because of hard to start. It used to start ok then with less use even in summer not dependable. Now I am about ready to sell real cheap because still hard to start with newer batteries ..now has 2 12V in series, new cables, new switch,, alternator, newly rebuilt injector pump, new shaft into the Hyd Pump, Runs good after started, new pump makes throttle up very responsive.....but Thinking I should try adding the destroker to help in starting it ...Not a mechanic myself but thinking its worth a try as last resort. It has a block heater which looks factory I think. Where is the location of the spot to add the destroker? I have a JD 46? loader thinking of pulling it off to eliminate the strain on the system. I have tried to read all I can find regards this option and have the 2 part numbers I think. Maybe some pointers on what and where to look. Your wise advice is much appreciated. I hate get rid of the old gal so easy on fuel, but so hard to get running. Main question is regards the install of the destroker device.Comments or other ideas. Thank you

does the starter crank as fast as it should ,mite have it rebuilt ,.diesels like to really be spun to bring them to quik attentiom,.. a draggy starter will make the best tuned motor no matter what brand a real pain to start ..

my Oliver was hard to start I ran the ground to a starter bolt,and ran a new positive cable. That helped a lot make sure all connectons are "Bright,and tight" starter could be getting tired out also . Good luck !

Chech timing.Slow timing can make a diesel a real bear to start

"I paid for conversion to 12 V because of hard to start."

"still hard to start with newer batteries"

I'm gonna go out on a limb, here, and say that "improvement" you paid good $$$$ for didn't work out too well for you!

Then, you go on to say "now has 2 12V in series" (which would make 24 Volts).

All that aside, with good batteries and a good 12 Volt starter you should NOT need a destroker to start it in summer weather.

"Chech timing"

Do they time things differently over there?

Just JOSH'IN 'ya, although I know any humor is dealt with severely here.

I guess one should ask if there is any smoke while turning over. Dad had one that was a bear to start. He played with the throttle, had pump rebuilt, had pump timing checked, filters changed, ect. Turned out to be 3 injectors were the problem. He claims they were carboned up. I say the spray pattern was a drip.

(quoted from post at 00:44:29 06/03/15)

Then, you go on to say "now has 2 12V in series" (which would make 24 Volts).

All that aside, with good batteries and a good 12 Volt starter you should NOT need a destroker to start it in summer weather.

Click to expand...

I agree with Bob that if converted to 12 volt system the batteries should be attached in parallel not series.

Summer or Winter a de-stroking used correctly can help a slow starting engine.


frt end loader isn't going to affect how engine starts one way or the other.

I agree that inj pump timing should be checked.

What type starter was installed on tractor(new or rebuilt)? 24 volt starter converted to 12 volts don't start a engine very well.

This is parts list for de-stroking screw which is parts key 6
A4365R O-Ring - PACKING "O" RING 0.96 USD
R26448 O-Ring - O-RING, O-RING 1.54 USD
R27171 Screw - SCREW 7.89 USD
R27475 Fitting - BUSHING,ADJUSTING SCREW 5.53 USD
34H254 Spring Pin - PIN, SPRING 0.33 USD
*Subtotal 16.25 USD

I have a 4020 that had similar troubles. The best thing I did was install a high torque starter. It was $600.00 less than the new JD starter. It sounds like a late 60's mopar when it starts.

Of course, it could be compression that is the problem. Valves been checked for proper clearance lately?

I am sure I have some things wrong but your info and advice is wonderful. I grew up as a kid on an old H farmall then a 460 a WD45 a 706 gas,,,and this 3010 was a blessing. I have to get into the hayfield next week and need it. It has kinda been a money pit, but every big expense and you think all will be better. I wish I had your all "knowhow" in the shop. I will bring these suggestions to a local mechanic, sounds like someone who has worked on the tractor has gotten something wrong in their process, leading to the starting problem possibly. I paid for the pump to be rebuilt when it would not throttle up and that was a huge improvement in responsiveness. The change to 12v was after I put in new batteries, I know I paid about 600 just for a new starter but I am wondering if they re used the old starter and maybe new armature if that is even possible...because case looked same. Then someone has left off the rear side panels and it allowed water to get into the starter and the mechanic had to come and r&r the starter again. SOOO I have kept in the shop since last spring. Still does not start like it should. I can ether it and get started but cant shut it off in the field. It runs great again, just starting is bad problem.
I am probably wrong about batteries in series...and it is now negative ground. The loader and rollback are very slow and almost unuseable so thinking of lightening the load by taking off. I appreciate thee great responses so quickly. I will summarize these and meet with a different local fellow who I am told is good on JD. Been reading about 706 with certain diesel engine that might be a good value as I need something to mow hay with. Have a 9 ft disc mower figure I need 50 HP to pull mower. My Kubota is straining to pull the Hesston 565 a bit undersized but I only have about 75 acres to bale hay from.

I am in southwest Missouri. Thank you every one again.

Dad had two 3010's and we kept a chain on both of them, almost always pulled them off.
Ron

(quoted from post at 20:47:29 06/02/15) I have a 3010 diesel, approx 4500 hours, that I paid for conversion to 12 V because of hard to start. It used to start ok then with less use even in summer not dependable. Now I am about ready to sell real cheap because still hard to start with newer batteries ..now has 2 12V in series, new cables, new switch,, alternator, newly rebuilt injector pump, new shaft into the Hyd Pump, Runs good after started, new pump makes throttle up very responsive.....but Thinking I should try adding the destroker to help in starting it ...Not a mechanic myself but thinking its worth a try as last resort. It has a block heater which looks factory I think. Where is the location of the spot to add the destroker? I have a JD 46? loader thinking of pulling it off to eliminate the strain on the system. I have tried to read all I can find regards this option and have the 2 part numbers I think. Maybe some pointers on what and where to look. Your wise advice is much appreciated. I hate get rid of the old gal so easy on fuel, but so hard to get running. Main question is regards the install of the destroker device.Comments or other ideas. Thank you

Click to expand...

et The compression and injectors tested

One mechanic mentioned a "gear reduction starter" do you think that is same as you refer to?
Any direction on where and how much for the starter you refer to?
The other folks have some good ideas I will also be trying to check out. It is so hard to find a reliable ....real mechanic anymore.

I am guessing your 4020 is similar to my 3010 in thus area. The list is long of repair tickets. ..

I figure I paid for new....and got rebuilt.
The starter housing did not look new on
return. I do have 2 12 v batteries and
Alternator. It also seems like one battery
is less charge than the other when I put
tester on it. I also feel I have to
disconnect and charge each battery
Individually when it seems like hooking into
the one would charge them both, but I am
probably wrong there.
I will go to John Deere dealer in Lebanon Mo
and try to pick up the items you sent me.
THANK YOU.

One of the biggest problems I have had over the years in getting a diesel started is the ability to crank. Over the years, the connections at the ends of the battery cables eat up with acid and corrosion. You can't always see it, but a decent ohm meter will likely tell you if you know how to use it. The easiest way to fix the trouble is to simply replace the cable. I get the heaviest cable I can find and have new ends crimped on it, and just totally replace it. It often solves my problem and does so cheaply...

I have an ohm meter. They put new cables on but there could be an issue hiding. I still question the starter being right. Also I question areas others have mentioned I need to eliminate related to timing and injectors
. Although once started it seems run good and exhaust looks like it should. I need check the oil to maybe see if right weight etc. Thanks for your comment.

My 3010 has about the same or a few more hours on the engine and it is the best starter on the farm. It will start at -20 with no either and not plugged in. We do try to plug it in but sometimes it doesn't happen and cows need to eat. You need a starter that will spin it fast,turn a Deere over slow and it will never start. I am not a fan of those cheap gear reduction starters as we had the the nose break off one and wedge in the housing ruining a ring gear. I have heard of two others doing the same thing. Tom

My 3010 D was a very hard starting tractor for a number of years. One day the starter just quit. Took the starter to a starter/ generator shop and had it rebuilt. After the starter rebuild, the 3010 starts great.

THIS IS GOOD TO KNOW ....might not be a good option...learning more every day on this thing. You know, I agree it will start but mine I have to ether it, cause it wont crank it long enough most of the time to start. I bought a brand new Kubota once and due to factory problem it would not start one day when it was about -0- degrees....the old john deere sitting outside managed to start so I could feed. I called the dealer on a Sunday morning and said come get this new tractor...it was not pretty. It did get resolved through a factory update but sometimes the old standby works. So this tractor used to start but something has happened along the way...just cant pinpoint it it seems.

Quite a few comments seem to identify that the timing and or the starter I paid a pile of money for was not done right or I got ripped off, a good possibility. If I was smart enough to measure the amp draw that should be an indicator of whether the starter is spinning like it should. I bought new batteries at one point and one of them could be faltering...I have grown up around dozers and backhoes etc and know that this tractor should not be so hard to start. I was kinda buffaloed by the whole 24v and positive ground system as original set up so I thought changing was a home run, but ....still an issue. uggh.