53 jubilee oil sump?

twieds · May 9, 2015

Problems continue ... went to the store and got an oil filter, fits great; drained the oil removing the pan's screw/screen; and then I un-clipped the "oil sump." It appeared to be full, but with an oil-gas mix and very dirty, so I dumped it and cleaned a host of sludge from inside the bottom of it. Great, looks almost good as new.
I decided I was ready to start filling the tractor back up with engine oil; and figured since the "oil sump" has a FULL line, I should put some oil in it too. PROBLEM: the oil started to slowly drain out of the "oil sump" basin through a small, pin-sized hole in its bottom.
Is that supposed to be there (the small hole), is that for overflow? Do I need a new "oil sump" basin? Again, the part that has the small hole in its bottom is the round "oil sump" basin that unclips from the tractor. I don't think it had been leaking out before because of the gunk inside it.
Advice please.

Ozlander · May 9, 2015

Sounds to me like you have been playing with the oil bath air cleaner.
Cleaning it up and changing the oil won't hurt a thing, but it has nothing to do with changing the engine oil, which I assume you are tying to do.

twieds · May 9, 2015

Just so we're clear ... my reprinted manual calls it an "oil sump." I am OK with it not being part of the oil change.

If that's the case, I did dump the fluid from the "oil sump" basin.
Do I re-fill it with something?
With what?
Finally, Is it supposed to have a tiny hole in it?

john in la · May 9, 2015

So we are not spending time answering a question wrong because we do not know what part you are talking about;

Tell us; Is this your so called "oil sump"

J. Schwiebert · May 9, 2015

No You fill it to that line with the same oil you are using in the engine. Braze the tiny hole shut first.

twieds · May 9, 2015

OK, so while out and about in town just now I stopped by a mechanic's shop and spoke with an old timer.
He knew what I was talking about (yes, the illustration someone posted here -- the oil sump).
He said "where'd you get this tractor." I said my dad.
"No, what state?" "Texas," I said.
"And they have, what, 50, 60, 70, 80 percent humidity there, while here in Arizona we have 10 to 20 percent most of the time," he said. "Some old boy way back when drilled that hole in the sump to drain the condensation from it."
"What about the oil?" I said, telling him it's leaking because after I dumped the oil-gas mix from the sump, I cleaned out about a half-inch of gunk -- the hole is now clean too.
"Since it's so dry here (Arizona), just clean it and leave it empty -- if you're going to store the tractor inside; if you store it out in the elements, fill the hole with JB weld and fill the sump with oil."
DOES ALL OF THIS SOUND RIGHT?

twieds · May 9, 2015

Yes, see my reply above.

showcrop · May 9, 2015

NO that is not right. These filters can easily get water in them from the air intake on the side of the hood, when sitting out on a windy rainy day. The water sits in there and can rust the bottom. The early Ford diesels were notorious for rusted air cleaners. These air cleaners also tend to get no where near adequate service so you should remove it and give it a good cleaning inside. Remove the steel wool media if necessary. You can buy new filter media on this site.Plug the hole by brazing, as said above or by welding, epoxy, chewing gum or what have you. Fill to line with the same oil as you have in the crank case.

showcrop · May 9, 2015

NO that is not right. These filters can easily get water in them from the air intake on the side of the hood, when sitting out on a windy rainy day. The water sits in there and can rust the bottom. The early Ford diesels were notorious for rusted air cleaners. These air cleaners also tend to get no where near adequate service so you should remove it and give it a good cleaning inside. Remove the steel wool media if necessary. You can buy new filter media on this site.Plug the hole by brazing, as said above or by welding, epoxy, chewing gum or what have you. Fill to line with the same oil as you have in the crank case.

Greg1959 · May 9, 2015

Clean the air cleaner up, including the mesh, plug the hole in the cup, fill cup up with engine oil to full line, install wire mesh and attach oil cup to bottom of air cleaner.

It does not matter about the humidity level of your location. The air cleaner is there to remove dust and debris before it is sucked into the intake of the engine. If such debris can get sucked into the carb, intake, combustion chamber, and so on. It can cause disastrous results (Just think about putting a few ounces of fine sand into your crankcase oil).

HTH

john in la · May 9, 2015

If you do not put oil in the sump you just as soon take the whole air cleaner off and throw it away.

The way it works.
Air is pulled threw the oil.
Oil sticks to any dirt.
The air; small dirt; oil is pulled up into the mesh.
The mesh catches the oil and dirt.
As the oil drips back into the sump it pulls the dirt back down into the sump.

When serviced regularly; filled with proper weight oil to the proper level; a oil bath filter will out preform all but the best paper filters.

64961d1347287383-definitive-air-filter-thread-2010-oil-bath-air-cleaner.jpg

Geo-TH,In · May 10, 2015

John
The pic looks like my Jubilee's and neighbor's 63 massey. My question is do you put oil in the inside ring where the air comes down? I do my neighbor doesn't. I've yet to have any problems. Do the same on Farmall C.

Definately think there is a problem with terms, oil sump and air filter.

john in la · May 10, 2015

George;
(On the Ford at least)
If you install the inside ring and then fill the cup to the proper level with oil it will fill the inside ring. No way of keeping oil out of the inside ring as it has holes for the oil to flow threw.

But yes the tube coming down the center is suppose to be sitting in oil.
The air is drawn threw the oil and the small dirt particles pick up oil as they move along with the air.
The mesh is to course to catch small dirt particles. But since they are now coated with oil they stick to the mesh allowing only clean air to exit the top.

Geo-TH,In · May 11, 2015

Thanks, just as I thought.

Ozlander · May 11, 2015

(quoted from post at 19:12:25 05/09/15) OK, so while out and about in town just now I stopped by a mechanic's shop and spoke with an old timer.
He knew what I was talking about (yes, the illustration someone posted here -- the oil sump).
He said "where'd you get this tractor." I said my dad.
"No, what state?" "Texas," I said.
"And they have, what, 50, 60, 70, 80 percent humidity there, while here in Arizona we have 10 to 20 percent most of the time," he said. "Some old boy way back when drilled that hole in the sump to drain the condensation from it."
"What about the oil?" I said, telling him it's leaking because after I dumped the oil-gas mix from the sump, I cleaned out about a half-inch of gunk -- the hole is now clean too.
"Since it's so dry here (Arizona), just clean it and leave it empty -- if you're going to store the tractor inside; if you store it out in the elements, fill the hole with JB weld and fill the sump with oil."
DOES ALL OF THIS SOUND RIGHT?

No, Arizona is know to be dry and very DUSTY. That's when you need the air cleaner the most.
Unless you're a mechanic and looking for business overhauling engines.

53 jubilee oil sump?

twieds

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Ozlander

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twieds

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john in la

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J. Schwiebert

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twieds

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twieds

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showcrop

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