using steel fence posts

Living in Florida,I don't have a clue on using metal fence posts properly. i scored 50 at a yard sale today for a dollar each. I'd like to hang field fence with a top strand of bars wire. What is the proper way to use them? tell it all because we don't have a clue and will use them Monday. Thanks in Advance!!!!!!!!!!
 
That's awful hard to say. About as many kinds and sizes of steel posts are there are barbed wire.
 
I just drive them in with a pipe post driver until the flag is about two inches below the surface of the dirt. Make sure they are driven in vertical. I think I used to put the posts about twelve to fourteen feet apart. Clip your wire to them however far apart you want the wire. Wire clips are available at your local farm store in the fence department or I imagine Home Depot would have them too. Use large wood posts for the end posts and bury them about three feet deep. Everyone builds fence different.
 
The barb wire goes on the "cow" side of the fence. You'd think everybody knows this but I hired a guy once who does this for a living and guess what? Maybe do an internet search on how to build your corner/brace posts. It's 3/4ths the work involved but if not done properly, your fence won't be worth a dang. Set good corner posts and your fence will last 30 years.
 
In that Florida sand you will need a 6 inch wood post and then two steel. Set at 10 feet. I hope you got 6 foot posts. That sand won't hold a 5 ft steel post up. Is it for cattle or goats or ?.
 
Steel post are made for line post. They will not stand up for use as end post; gate post.
Put you in two end post (heavy wooden) about 5 feet apart. This is what will hold the tension.
Then drive in your steel post one every 10 feet.
If you have a fence longer than 100 feet you will need to put in two wooden post to hold tension.

Go to home depot or such and buy you a piece of steel post about 2 inches round with threads on one end.
Buy a cap you can screw on threads and cut post about 3 feet long.
You can use this to drive your steel post into ground.
The cap should last long enough to drive 50 post but you may need to replace cap.

Buy some wire clips for T post. This is what holds the wire to your post.

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Set and brace your corner posts first, with wooden posts. Drive your line posts. One side will likely have small bubbles. Place these to the field side EXCEPT on curved areas. In that case, drive the posts so the fence will pull into the bubbles. They make a preformed clip for the t-posts, and they're not expensive and easy to use. Otherwise, get a heavy gauge wire and wrap one side of the wire, then around the post, and around the wire several more times. It'll help if you can stretch and tension a couple hundred feet at a time, but doing several sections at a time works fine. If you hang barbed wire, do it the same way...
 
Steve,have two;use them for chain link posts. The explanation about the clips was what I really needed. Going to build corners with treated posts,then put 3 metal posts,then a wood one We'll do an 'H' every hundred feet and draw it tight. thanks to everyone.
 
Remember them good old car jacks from the 60s and 70s? They are your post pullers with a little modification!
 
I guess I don't have any close up pictures of my steel fence posts with wire fence. This is how I do the corners. I have every thing cut down for miniature horses. Still the same deal. I have always used a jack post but I ran out of posts and still need to add them at the top of the lane. Not all people use jack posts.

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It depends on what you are keeping in. Being as you are using woven wire there won't be as much pressure on the line since nothing can get its head through. If it's for cattle they will try reaching over to steal grass. At the home pasture I run a hot wire at the top. At the remote pastures I run a barbed wire at the top. Around here I run 4 T-posts and then a good wooden hedge post. Then 4 more metal, etc.
 
just make durn sure wqhen you pull one up ,, YA DONT BREAK IT OF F ,.. TAKE THE TIME TRO DIG IT OUT TOO ,,, whole lot cheaper than fixin a tire
 
Good advice!!!! I bought some ground that has been in pasture for years. Cost me a pickup tire & had to use metal-dector to find the rest. Once you find 2 within 10 feet, you can find the whole fence row.
Led
 
I guess we don't build fence right. We always just set the corner post with it having a slight lean so it would be straight when the wire is tightened. then we set a deadhead in about 2 feet from the post with a rod from it above the ground. We then wrap a wire around the corner post and then down to the deadhead. The deadhead is a short about 3 foot long post piece buried crosswise of the rod to hold the corner post. something like a guy-wire on a power line pole. If we set the H set up you guys show the corner post will pull up.
 
Man is that correct. I have one I broke off, coul not get the bottom out, took a 5# hammer and drove it as far as I could. But I know where it is.
 
I used a treated post, didn't last long is sandy soil. It looks like you are using landscaping lumber. My last landscaping lumber only lasted 4 years.
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