Storing a Rebuilt Engine

Traditional Farmer · May 8, 2015

Bought a tractor in pieces that came with a dealer rebuilt 162 Flathead Cont.engine.It was rebuilt about 2 years ago and has sat in a garage,it'll be awhile before I'll get around to putting it in a tractor to start it.It has no oil in it but it still turns over OK by hand.I was thinking about putting oil in the crankcase plus taking the plugs out and putting oil in the cylinders as I turned the engine over by hand just to keep everything oil up and hopefully rust to a minimum.Good or bad Idea? Other suggestions?

DeltaRed · May 8, 2015

That's exactly the same thing I would have done. Steve

David G · May 8, 2015

I would put the plugs back in and cover all ports after oiling.

RBoots · May 8, 2015

I'd fill it as full as I could get it with new oil. Then I'd pull the plugs and fill the cylinders full too. If they cleaned everything properly, there is probably only a skiff of oil on the timing gears, I would suspect you could get condensation in there and rust up any new/shiny parts, unless you have all the openings sealed perfectly. A little oil is cheap, I'd rather have the crank flooded with it than chance some rust from a bit of condensation. That's just my opinion, but that's what I have done.

Ross

Goose · May 8, 2015

I agree with the above. Might not hurt to turn it over by hand every few months.

Mike M · May 8, 2015

In addition to the below I'd keep it inside a heated building as to limit the condensation forming in there. Maybe vacume pack it ? I saw bags you can put your car into I think it was in an MG parts supplier book. Someone may sell one that fits an engine ?

JMS/.MN · May 8, 2015

I use ATF for the same reasons others stated. Have a couple combine engines and 19 hobby tractors that get that treatment. Been sitting for years and still turn over.

Dick L · May 8, 2015

I installed and started a slant six that was rebuilt over 15 years ago and only had assembly oil and lube. I squirted a little engine oil in the spark plug holes before I removed it from the engine stand it was stored on a day before I started to put it in. I had it stored at the back of an unheated warehouse. If it was properly oiled on assembly I wouldn't worry about it. I have an Oliver 77 engine that was rebuilt 20 years ago that has not been started, also stored in an unheated building that has no oil in it other that plenty of oil on the pistons and rings at assembly. I will squirt a little engine oil over the pistons so the pistons can push oil up the cylinder walls when I first crank it over.

Steve@Advance · May 8, 2015

I would seal all the external openings as best as possible, try to make it bug-nest proof.

Oil the cylinders.

Oil in the crankcase really wouldn't matter, as you can't get it totally full. Chances are it would leak around the dip stick, oil fill cap, and seep out the main seals, make a mess.

If you could seal it in a plywood crate, that would help keep moisture and varmints out of it. If not it would be better left open than wrapped in plastic or a tarp. That would just be a place for rodent nesting.

jm. · May 8, 2015

TF That is probably off all engine one of the hardest to store without damage . The dang things will have a valve stick over night. All the other poster are right. IF the Exhaust is off spray wd 40 in there and what ever you do turn it over about ever 20 days. You won,t have any trouble with the cylinders, problem will be a valve sticking. Nothing to pulling the side and freeing it but just as easy to turn it over ever now and then. Used to build a lot of them for forklifts.

shunkfarm · May 8, 2015

There are plastic vci bags for storing metal that gives off a gas that keeps rust from forming. The military stores guns in them now. They come in many sizes. Very good stuff!
http://www.daubertcromwell.com/PremiumMetalGuard2.asp

J

Storing a Rebuilt Engine

Traditional Farmer

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DeltaRed

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David G

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RBoots

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Goose

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Mike M

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JMS/.MN

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Dick L

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Steve@Advance

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jm.

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shunkfarm

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