2005 Ford Expidition A/C Compressor

I dont know if its related to the a/c comp, but the idle speed is controlled by the electronic throttle body. I know its possible if the throttle body gets gummed up a little bit then certain engine loads can cause an erratic idle or low idle and possible stall. You can clean the throttle body and throttle plate and see if that makes a difference. Also while you do that, unplug the the battery, that resets the PCM and allows it to relearn the idle.

After saying that it is still possible that the compressor is locking up causing the idle issue but they usually either lock up solid or simply destruct not causing much issue with idle quality.
 
Does it do the same thing if you turn a/c off and turn wheel all the way to stop and hold it?

If so.......
I think 2005 is a fly by wire system so you may not have a Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
If you do try cleaning the IAC and the throttle body while you have it off.
The throttle position sensor could also be acting up.

If it truly is the air compressor dragging it down the only cure I know of is replacing it.
But like stated they usually work or freeze up solid enough to break the belt.
 
I am pretty sure it is tye compressor because i had no issues with it off. Drove it 200 miles back home after it did it the first time. Tried it again and it really pulls the engine down when you turn it on. Was thinking of trading for a new one but prices scare the heck out of me.
 
I replace a lot of them because the pulley bearing fails. The belt is too wide on those to break, it will stall the engine usually. I have had them so bad I had to cut the belt off to start them.
 
With the engine off, you should be able to hand turn the compressor clutch. Not the entire pulley with the belt on, just the center part that turns when the clutch is engaged. If it's locked solid, or gritty feeling, the compressor is bad internally.

Another test is to start it up, watch the compressor clutch while someone turns it on. If the clutch doesn't turn, or slips the belt, or smokes, the compressor is locked.

If the compressor checks good, look at the idle speed solenoid, could be carboned up or bad.

But, if the compressor is locked up, there is more to it than just replacing the compressor! The shrapnel from the failed compressor is now circulating through the entire AC system. Very difficult to flush out. The very minimum requirement is replacing the filter/dryer and the orifice screen. Probably best left to the professionals for warranty purposes.
 
Before cleaning ANY throttle body, check for a warning sticker that tells you NOT to clean it. Since the early '90s, Ford throttle bodies are not to be cleaned, and a sticker on the throttle body warns against it. Some would never run right after cleaning until the throttle body was replaced. I had one that was like that. Finally replaced the throttle body after all else failed. Ran good after that.
Of course, some folks will ignore warning stickers and do what they want. In any case, the manufacturer does know best.
 
Well it is definitely the compressor. High dollar repair but better than payments on a new Expidition. So it goes in the shop next week.
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:24 04/27/15) Before cleaning ANY throttle body, check for a warning sticker that tells you NOT to clean it. Since the early '90s, Ford throttle bodies are not to be cleaned, and a sticker on the throttle body warns against it. Some would never run right after cleaning until the throttle body was replaced. I had one that was like that. Finally replaced the throttle body after all else failed. Ran good after that.
Of course, some folks will ignore warning stickers and do what they want. In any case, the manufacturer does know best.

The main reason behind that was the manufacturer put a coating on the edge of the throttle plate, probably teflon or something like it. The coating was there to resist carbon/gum buildup but the problem was in time the buildup would still collect and cause problems. The idea of the sticker was that some cleaners would remove that coating. So the two problems are the coating is useless after a period of time so you either go ahead and clean it or replace the throttle body, it never hurts to try the cheaper method first.

As far as never running right after cleaning, as long as there is no vacuum leaks, and all sensors are in spec and adjustment if applicable you should unplug the battery or PCM to reset KAM and let it relearn idle strategy.
 

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