UPDATE-FARMALL STUCK WHEELS-NOW STUCK ENGINE

8nsyes

Member
Hello to each of you;
This is an update to your responses given to me concerning my rear wheels being stuck and from the advise that you gave to me.
1. I followed your advise, Old's technique I tried.
2. allowed to sit 1-2 days.
3. removed transmission cover, found that 1st and 2nd gear were stuck together, using a
small bar I separated the gears, lined them up as instructed by You on this Forum.
4. replaced welded transmission cover, all gears worked fine as could be expected.
5. drained solution of gas and HEET from system, towed the tractor all worked very good.
With that situation being solved, I have a question or two.
First question does the rear axle housing have a small drain plug that is just to the right of the transmission, if so mine is missing one and I need to know what size/type goes into the hole there????

Here's a "goodie" question that seems serious to me; While towing the tractor smiling with the wheels turning in neutral and in 1st then 2nd gear I could not get the motor to turn over one whit. ALL AND ANY RESPONSES ARE APPRECIATED AS I APPROACH THIS PROBLEM OF STUCK ENGINE.

Thanks everyone for your expertise and patience as you bear with me.
sincerely,
Walt
 
Always use a high gear when pull starting a tractor so you will turn the engine over slowly and not cause the rear wheels to slide.
 
as said you got to put them in high gear to pull start them. We pulled them for miles trying to get the da- things to start
 
Now that you have the transmission freed up, put the tractor in high gear and try to rock it by pushing and pulling on the rear tire. If you can't get the engine to turn that way, DON'T try to pull it on pavement to break it loose. You are just as likely to bend a connecting rod and end up with a several thousand $$ rebuild.
 
I have pulled the tractor in the pasture in each gear, when I let off the clutch the motor "she no moves". Clearly the transmission is fixed and the wheels are doing what they are supposed to do. Where do I go from here??

ANY COMMENTS OUT THERE ON THE DRAIN PLUG QUESTION? TO THE RIGHT OF THE TRANSMISSION WHERE THE DIFFERENTIAL CONNECTS IS A THREADED HOLE POSSIBLY 1/2 INCH OR 3/8 INCH, I DONT KNOW FOR SURE??
 
Pull all the spark plugs out. Be sure not to mix up the plug wires or you will mess up the firing order. If you have the hand crank try to turn it over by hand with the plugs out. If you can move it good if not fill the cylinders with ATF I use Dextron 3 when freeing up engines and have done many of them over the years and out of more then 25 all but 2 or 3 did not free up for me as long as it has no water in the cylinders which you should check for before adding the ATF
 
Its probably one or the other of those, from my experience in such things. Go to the hardware store, buy 2 pipe plugs (one of each). Whichever one it isn't, you now have the beginning of your spare plumbing fitting collection. Mine now fills a fairly substantial box, and its surprising how often I can save myself a trip to town during the middle of a project.
 
Nick,
I took the starter off, checked it and it works just fine. I put the starter back in and tried to "bump" the starter and it tried to activate the motor, but not so!
walt
 
Hello Old;

I removed each plug and put I/4 cup ATF in them, let it sit a week, tried to turn over the motor, "nothing".

Should I repeat the process and see what happens. By the way that HEET worked really good for the moisture.

waiting for next order! from you and the Board!
walt
 
A couple more thoughts:

Is the tractor thawed out completely? I had similar trouble trying to start an Allis B when it was cold out. Turns out I had just enough moisture in the engine to hold everything in place. Once the weather warmed up, it was fine.

Have you pulled the valve cover to see if all of the valves are free? Sometimes moisture can get into the valve cover and rust the valves in place, which would also prevent the motor from turning over.

Good luck!
 
Engine is stuck, then. Do as Old suggested above. Might add some acetone to the ATF, too. Put it in, wait a week, try rocking the back tire again. Repeat as necessary, or until you run out of patience and take the thing apart. Or hire someone to take it apart.
 
Mathiah;
I'm in scorching heat in Florida, no freezing problem here. Your advise on pulling the top to check the valves is a great option for me.
thanks
walt
 
You are facing a stuck engine. Were it mine I would take a good LED light and look into the spark plug holes. (a fiber optic remote viewer or bore scope is very handy for this) If there is nasty rust, putting ATF or other concoctions in the cylinders will not get the job done. If there is heavy rust, you must decide between three options. Do the engine yourself. (requires skill and determination as well as our coaching. Purchase a usable operating engine, or sell it as is. Jim
 
Hello Floldford;
I'm in Wauchula, 90 miles south of Orlando. I just picked up my wife in Orlando at the Airport the other day.
I have a small cabin in Kentucky that we were supposed to be in today but "sickness" has delayed us a mite. We've been spending time in and at the hospital/doctors(s) visiting, praying and yes, being treated. I have a big family and when one gets sick some of the others do to. I don't know about your place but in Hardee County we have not had rain at my place in well over a month, it keeps threatening to rain but no rain. I want to get back to the mountains as soon as possible. What town are you in?
regards,
walt
 
Hello Janicholson,
With what you said, if found to be in such condition, do you think that would require an overall with the pistons, rings, valves etc. without separating the motor from the tractor????
regards,
walt
 
I freed up my JD420 (upright engine) with hot water. Someone else had taken the head off. I plumbed a 20# empty propane tank into the bottom rad hose connection on the block and filled the engine to the top of the block with water. Heated the tank until the water boiled, let cool and repeated twice. I drilled a piece of square steel tube to fit across the piston that was halfway up/down so I could tighten 2 headbolts with blocks of steel under the tube and on top of the piston. Once it moved the rest was easy. It worked for me. Good luck.
 
That depends on the condition of the crank. The engine is a wet sleeve. It has replacable cylinders that are held in place by the head gasket, and sealed in the block by Orings at the bottom. If the crank is good. (must be measured with precision tools) then it can be rebuilt in the tractor. Jim
 
I'm just north of Bartow off of US 98. I'll send you a email later today. If I can help with the Farmall you will be able to get in touch with me. I've unstuck a few old engines over the last 30 years. Most times your successful. A few I have had to tear completely down.

Gary
 
El Toro;
Thanks for the tip, I shall check it out, and report back at a later date as I get the work done.
regards,
walt
 
Blackhole,
I shall do that as I can get to it. For all to know; when I drained the motor the stuff that came out of the motor/oil pan was a lot of water, some oil and it looked kinda "milky".
regards,
walt
 

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