(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Changing oil

Our Phone System is Down!

Please use the Contact us Form

We are working to resolve the issue ASAP! Thanks for your patience!

P

pburg

Member
Why is it that the oil in a gasoline engine (like in a car) needs to be changed at 3-to-6000 miles [50 to 100 hrs]since it gets black in about that span of time-----WHEREAS a diesel engine (like in an ag tractor) can run 150 hours before it is needing to be changed???
 
I am thinking that if you were to send your 6000 mile auto oil out to a test lab,the results would be that you could run it for much longer. Where would the money be in that?
Also oil in equipment is measured in gallons not quarts so there is much more oil to absorb the contaminates.
 
In a nutshell (I think I have this right), because gasoline is a solvent and helps to break the lubricating properties of oil down faster, therefore needing changed at more frequent intervals. Diesel fuel is more of a lubricant and does not break oil down.
 
My 2014 Silverado goes in for it's first oil change tomorrow at 7800 miles.The oil still looks like new.
 
Years ago, when 'oil sellers' starting to push oil change at 3K, I would show my friends where their car owners manual stated, 'change ever 7K or 7.5K'.
I do not go that far but do more then 3000.
"just a old mechanic"
 
(quoted from post at 11:30:09 03/23/15) Why is it that the oil in a gasoline engine (like in a car) needs to be changed at 3-to-6000 miles [50 to 100 hrs]since it gets black in about that span of time-----WHEREAS a diesel engine (like in an ag tractor) can run 150 hours before it is needing to be changed???[/q6000

All depends how you look at it.

Car
6000 miles divided by 40 mph average equals 150 hr run time.

Tractor
150 hours x 8 mph average equals 1200 miles.
Click to expand...
 
They will probably re-program your computer so you bring it back sooner! They did that to our Buick, limited it to about 6000. I changed oil in our Subaru yesterday, it looked good on the dipstick but not so good in the drain pan! About 6000 miles, 0W20 fully synthetic. The older Subaru's were recommending 7500 miles but they backed it off to 6000, must of had some problems.
 
Believe it or not but my Cummins B3.3 NA used to be 300 hrs and they have extended it to 500. My Silverado manual says 7500 mi. for normal driving. I don't pay any attention to any of that stuff. I change it when I get good and ready........over 70 and still waiting for my first dead engine. But I am not abusive. I just think all the change hoopla is source driven, source being whomever is selling something in the process.
 

I've managed to collect a series of tractors, cars and trucks over the years that never needed the oil changed. In fact, if I could make it more than 4-5 hours without the oil running completely out I was doing good. Some people have tried to tell me this isn't normal........ :lol:
 
I use to change mine like a clock a ticking until years back it was either Cummins or Detroit that lengthened their oil change intervals, shortly after I did the same on my own and company vehicles with no detrimental effect, only one scared me was a 04 impala it ran over 10,000 before the oil change light came on, had over 200,000 when sold and still used under a quart between changes,one company truck I had I always put 8500 to 10,000 on it before and oil change turned it in with close to 300,000 on it,it didn't require any oil between changes,it ran so good that it didn't get a set of plugs until 125,000 because of a slight miss,after seeing how little they were worn and weren't the problem it was a computer connector problem I don't worry about changing them either
 
Go ahead and laugh. I don't add oil on any of my engines (2
excepted) between changes except my '63 2000 Ford Diesel and
I got it that way. It and the '65 3000 get 15-40 Rot-T. Add a
quart about every 6 months or so to the 2000. 3750ish hours
on original engine. Bought it back about 1995 from a dealer in
Abilene, TX. where there is a lot of dust.

The 3000 came to me with no compression due to the PO didn't
know that you had to connect the intake manifold to the air
cleaner to keep the dust out of the engine, especially in a hazard
environment. It was my first diesel and I didn't know that if you
needed ether to start in April in N. Texas, you had lousy
compression. So I did an inframe on it at about 5800 hrs. That
was about 15 years ago or so.

The rest are much newer and get synthetic (including my lawn
mowers) which evaporates very little. I don't add oil to any of
these between changes except for a Kohler 17.5 that leaks it out
in a JD L110 lawn mower. Besides I'll be dead before I wear any
of them out.
 
Engines are running far cleaner these days, along with fuel refinements and the quality of the oil and additives. Even the efficiency of filters has been getting better.

I can't speak much for how most manufacturers recommend oil change intervals but they are not in the business of selling oil and filters, they are trying to prolong the life of the equipment you purchased and not make it a financial burden on maintenance.

People need to read or understand what kind of oil is recommended when the change intervals seem extended or high. There might be a good chance it should be synthetic or a blend.
 
Everybody's habits are different. I reset my odometer when I fill up. The computer regularly says I averaged between 30 and 32 mph for the trip (unless I go on vacation). That works out close to 200 hrs for 6000 miles.
 
(quoted from post at 23:47:59 03/23/15) They will probably re-program your computer so you bring it back sooner! They did that to our Buick, limited it to about 6000. I changed oil in our Subaru yesterday, it looked good on the dipstick but not so good in the drain pan! About 6000 miles, 0W20 fully synthetic. The older Subaru's were recommending 7500 miles but they backed it off to 6000, must of had some problems.
Click to expand...

There is a reason they re-programmed the oil change intervals it was not so you would bring it back sooner.... It was because of the warranty issues, engine damage caused from the old setting...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Geo-TH,In
Change the oil in my kaw mule
2
Replies
20
Views
498
Jim in LA
J
4
Allis Chalmers B oil priming after filter change
2
Replies
23
Views
1K
49clipper
4
W
Oil question
Replies
5
Views
434
caterpillar guy
C
B
Crank Driven Hydraulic Pump Oil
Replies
3
Views
546
Bill VA
B
Oregon Tractor Jack
Log Splitter Hydraulic Oil Life.
Replies
12
Views
1K
showcrop
showcrop
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top