Blasting cabinets

mhudgins

Member
We are thinking of getting a blasting cabinet . For tractor parts and smaller parts so on so forth . What is a good size one that a 10 hp 220 gallon compressor would run and not needing the dust collector or whAtever the big cabinets need to operate
Thanks
 
I got one last summer from Harbor Freight. Not the best quality but it does work good. I used it all winter on tractor parts. When you put it together make sure you silacon all the joints or it will leak sand. I also added a fitting to the side and connected a shop vac for the dust. It has a light but does not give you enough light. I added another light on top of the cabinet. Dick, OR.
 
The size of the cabinet doesn't really determine the CFM required.

Size the cabinet to the size of the parts you'll be blasting.

Size the gun nozzle to your compressor capacity. That size compressor should have no problem keeping up with a blast cabinet, but check the required capacity listed in the specs. A 10 HP compressor will produce about 35-40 CFM at 100 PSI.

You really need some kind of dust collector, otherwise you won't be able to see what you are doing. You could get by with hooking a shop vac to a smaller unit, but a true dust collector will work much better.

Also, a water trap on the incoming air line is generally required, unless you air is pretreated through a chiller and is exceptionally dry.

When choosing a cabinet, look for one with an externally mounted work light. Sand will quickly destroy one mounted inside the cabinet. Also avoid one with round corners on the glass. You'll be at the mercy of the manufacturer to get replacements. And it will need replacing when it gets clouded.
 
How many CFMs does your compressor have at 75lbs. Just because you have a 10hp motor doesent tell how many CFMs and pressure. Then you need to decide how big of a tip you can run larger the hole the more CFMs you need. I use a 3/32 tip at 75lbs with my old Jaeger gas powered compressure works fine.
 
They used to sell a set of plans to make one from plywood. I gave mine to HOBO NC . Maybe he still has them. The dust collector is not really needed until the shot starts to get real pulverized and then you can just change glass shot.Search TIP , or Trumans [ same company].The homemade cabinet is big enough to fit an auto cyl head.
 
I don't have one but I have used a friend's quite a bit. As others have said you do NEED a dust collector. Visibilty, in order to see where the metal is clean and where it is not, is key to cabinet blasting. Without a dust collector you will be constantly waiting for the dust to settle, and your media will just get finer and finer and less and less effective.
 
same experience with the HF cabinet.

Sometimes can't even tell the light is on - it's that useless.

Overall the cabinet isn't much good - but it can be made better with a little work.

I agree on sealing the seams.

Adding a vacuum (there is a port for it) does more than just clear the dust for viewing - on the hf cabinet, the door doesn't seal very well - and dust just blows right out. The vacuum reverses the airflow through the door.

Just be sure there's a way for an adequate amount of air to get into the cabinet while the vacuum is on. Otherwise the gloves inflate inside the cabinet - and usually pop off the mounting ring.
 
I made a plywood box and put valley tin in side. It was 3'x4'x32" I used expanded metal for the blast surface a sloped bottom to run the sand to one side to reuse it I could pit 6 15" rims in and have plenty of room. For dust collection I used a shop vac I placed out side. For the blaster I got a Texas Blaster with the tip sized for my compresses. I think I had $75 in the cabinet. The good thing about that setup was I could still blast outside.
 

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