Hello I have some bad issues with my 9n. I am 14 and have ran a small engine shop for the last 3 years. I have also rebuilt Massey Ferguson and jd tractors before but this one stumps me. I'm new to the ford scene. I put new rings and new connecting rod bearings in. I ground the valve seats and put a new valve train in with adjustable tappets. I had the head looked at at a motor shop and they cleared it. At clyinder number 1 its 60lbs 2 30lbs 3 30lbs 4 30 lbs. Dry. Wet they all go up 5 lbs. Any ideas how to get the lbs up? I've replaced the head gasket twice with no change.
- Thread starter splitter
- Start date
greenmech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Lakeville MN
Can you get it to run? Maybe the rings need to seat in with a little run time. Any chance the engine is out of time? Just some thoughts. Ron Mn
rustred
Well-known Member
sounds like the valves are not adjusted correctly, if you have the correct clearance on pistons and rings. ring end gap is .004 for every inch of cyl. bore. how much wear do you have in the cyl's?
valves need to be adjusted with each cyl. on the compression stroke. as eltoro says .012 for intake cold ... that's a close tolerance and is easy to mess up if not careful. recheck if you have on compression stroke.
valves need to be adjusted with each cyl. on the compression stroke. as eltoro says .012 for intake cold ... that's a close tolerance and is easy to mess up if not careful. recheck if you have on compression stroke.
If you just replaced the rings then your pistons and cylinder bores could easily be worn so far out of size and roundness that you will NOT have compression.
When your tearing down a engine that is not running correctly you need to inspect and measure wear items, pistons and cylinders bores< before you install parts.
For roundness you really need a bore gauge but you can measure the piston clearance with a thin steel feeler gauge.
So check your timing and then do a cylinder leak test. I am thinking your piston to cylinder bore clearance is too large.
When your tearing down a engine that is not running correctly you need to inspect and measure wear items, pistons and cylinders bores< before you install parts.
For roundness you really need a bore gauge but you can measure the piston clearance with a thin steel feeler gauge.
So check your timing and then do a cylinder leak test. I am thinking your piston to cylinder bore clearance is too large.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Make sure your compression gauge is reasonably accurate. The fact that they are all low could be a valve timing issue, or the clearance was set incorrectly. Valve timing can be checked against crank position with the tappet cover removed. Jim
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
You are running the compression test with the
throttle and choke open?
throttle and choke open?
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
The condition you describe can be caused by several things:
1) Valve timing off.
2) Valves adjusted too tight.
3) Valves not seating properly. Possibly wrong grind on seat or valve face.
4) Rings too small - end gaps too big.
5) Camshaft worn out, valves not opening as they should.
Having had it running (or trying to) on just one cylinder does NOT rule out valve timing. Somewhere there is a major problem that is being overlooked. Go back to the basics, and recheck all of your work. Keep in mind that timing gears and chains can wear enough to cause your engine to jump valve timing. The usual result is low compression. A worn out camshaft will not let the valves open sufficiently to pull in a good air charge when needed. I would think that normal compression on ANY engine needs to be in the 90 psi range for the cylinder to fire.
Hopefully you have enough ideas for things to check over.
1) Valve timing off.
2) Valves adjusted too tight.
3) Valves not seating properly. Possibly wrong grind on seat or valve face.
4) Rings too small - end gaps too big.
5) Camshaft worn out, valves not opening as they should.
Having had it running (or trying to) on just one cylinder does NOT rule out valve timing. Somewhere there is a major problem that is being overlooked. Go back to the basics, and recheck all of your work. Keep in mind that timing gears and chains can wear enough to cause your engine to jump valve timing. The usual result is low compression. A worn out camshaft will not let the valves open sufficiently to pull in a good air charge when needed. I would think that normal compression on ANY engine needs to be in the 90 psi range for the cylinder to fire.
Hopefully you have enough ideas for things to check over.
Thank you all for the replys. Took everything apart and down to the block again and found out that the pistons were .003 oversized. Can you find rings easy online? The guy I bought it from really screwed me over. Paid 1200. Guy said all it needed was a battery and a carburetor. He had a bag over the intake to keep things out. I'm now in it at almost 2000 and need to get my money out of it.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
Thinking you mean .030 over pistons? You can
check the ring end cap with a feeler gauge.
Remove the compression rings, push them one at a
time into it's respective cylinder, about 1 1/2
from the top. Use the top of the piston to push
it in straight. Measure the gap, should be
minimum of .012". If they are standard rings in a
.030 over bore,the gap will be way big, like 1/8"
or so.
While you have it apart, better measure the rod
and main journals. The crank may have been ground
undersize. Be sure you have the right size
bearings.
Yes, all the parts you'll need are available
online, on this site in fact, and this is a
reliable source. Avoid the dealer! Will usually
be ridiculously overpriced!
If you don't already have one, invest in a shop
manual. It will walk you through everything you
need to know!
check the ring end cap with a feeler gauge.
Remove the compression rings, push them one at a
time into it's respective cylinder, about 1 1/2
from the top. Use the top of the piston to push
it in straight. Measure the gap, should be
minimum of .012". If they are standard rings in a
.030 over bore,the gap will be way big, like 1/8"
or so.
While you have it apart, better measure the rod
and main journals. The crank may have been ground
undersize. Be sure you have the right size
bearings.
Yes, all the parts you'll need are available
online, on this site in fact, and this is a
reliable source. Avoid the dealer! Will usually
be ridiculously overpriced!
If you don't already have one, invest in a shop
manual. It will walk you through everything you
need to know!
If you have an oversize piston then you have to have an aftermarket increase power kit that increases cu in and compression and that means the block has been bored to accept the thicker cast sleeves from a late 8N as the 9N had the paper thin steel sleves. Either that or the sleeves were removed and early Mecuray car pistons installed and if that has been done then you are going to have to have it bored for the cast sleeves of the late 8N as a standard normal for that engine will never be able to make stay in place. And for those aftermarket sleeve & piston kits it will be almost impossible to find rings for them as each company that made them would use there own designed ring. A factory bore cannot accept and there never was an oversize piston made for that tractor. Measure the bore the sleeve fits in and post that, it will tell us if you can even get sleeves for it and what type to get, as far as rings for an oversize piston forget that, probably not going to happen unless you can find a place that custom makes rings for the dollars in the govermint mint. I am 71 and still have the 2N that came to live with me when I was 8 months old and a 9N with the engine apart for 11 years. And if you have the fiber cam gear they are known to turn on the shaft. Check the N series section of this site and back in archives you will find a lot of information about that.
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