OK. I'm at wits end. I have a Ford 641 Workmaster and its always ran fine. About a year ago it started to spit and sputter after it warmed up a few minutes and eventually die out. I've changed the plugs and wires, changed the points, condenser, and coil, bought and installed a new zenith carb, replaced manifold gasket, and removed gas tank and cleaned entire fuel system. Still spits and sputters when warms up. HELP!!!
- Thread starter Jim Kietz
- Start date
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
Have you checked the valve lash? While the cover is off, look the valve trane over, check for broken springs, bent pushrods, valve motion (flat cam), sticking valves.
There is a plug in the bottom of the carb, pull the plug and see if you have a steady flow of fuel. If it slows to a drip, there s a restriction. Also use the choke as a diagnostic, if slightly pulling the choke causes it to run better, the mixture is too lean.
Check the distributor shaft for side play. If the bushing is worn the points will not stay set.
There is a plug in the bottom of the carb, pull the plug and see if you have a steady flow of fuel. If it slows to a drip, there s a restriction. Also use the choke as a diagnostic, if slightly pulling the choke causes it to run better, the mixture is too lean.
Check the distributor shaft for side play. If the bushing is worn the points will not stay set.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
There are two ways to do this.
Either throw enough new parts at it till you go broke or figure out what the problem is.
Always check your spark First.
VERIFY that you have a bright bluish white spark that will jump at least 1/4".
When it starts to sputter, immediately get out of the seat, pull a plug wire and check.
Requires No tools to do this.
I'm thinking you may have a faulty key switch or maybe loose wire that when it heats up begins to lose contact.
When you are certain you have good spark, only then go on to fuel.
To check fuel, remove the nut on the bottom of the float bowl and let it pee into a can. Check for uninterrupted flow for at least one minute.
Either throw enough new parts at it till you go broke or figure out what the problem is.
Always check your spark First.
VERIFY that you have a bright bluish white spark that will jump at least 1/4".
When it starts to sputter, immediately get out of the seat, pull a plug wire and check.
Requires No tools to do this.
I'm thinking you may have a faulty key switch or maybe loose wire that when it heats up begins to lose contact.
When you are certain you have good spark, only then go on to fuel.
To check fuel, remove the nut on the bottom of the float bowl and let it pee into a can. Check for uninterrupted flow for at least one minute.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
ALWAYS trouble shoot first then parts never parts then trouble shoot or you maybe chasing a problem you made. The other guys have it covered pretty good, spark gas flow and valves and maybe distributor shaft bushings
The voltage resistor for the coil to take the points voltage down from 6 volts to 4.8 volts. It is on the dash on the N series, not sure if Ford cut the voltage on the overhead valve tractors or not. I would have to hunt up my I & T manual to find out. Mt 9N & 2 N tractors will stay 6 volt as long as I own them. Has your 641 been converted over to 12 volts?
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