NOS 5w 30 oil

Sammy in Kansas · Mar 3, 2015

I have acquired 72 quarts of old Skelly Supreme 5w 30 oil that my friend had bought at an auction 15-20 years ago. I want to drain the cans and was wondering your thoughts on the oil. I have had a couple friends say it is safe to run it, and a couple more say no. It is in the round cardboard cans with metal top and bottom. Any pro's and cons of using this would be appreciated.

Heat Houser · Mar 3, 2015

Take it to auto shows and sell it. The old car buffs would like a can of vintage oil to display I would bet....

Sammy in Kansas · Mar 3, 2015

I had one guy say he would take 24 drained cans for 2.00 ea. but I will save them before I take that. I have had about 8-10 collectors tell me they need drained from the bottom so that they wont start seeping thru the paper someday, so wondered if oil is safe to use.

ss55 · Mar 3, 2015

Sometimes vintage oil cans bring money on ebay. Check what yours would sell for empty and full before you drain them.

If I were to used the oil, I would put it in an engine of the same era or older. I would not use the oil in a modern engine that needs modern oil.

Tom Bond · Mar 3, 2015

It's no good! Don't use it! I'll do you a favor and get rid of it for you. I can send you my address and send it here. I'll pay shipping.

Janicholson · Mar 3, 2015

The oil is safe to use. It is just fine. You can blend it with 20-50 or ? to increase its net viscosity if using it in an older tractor. I would not put it in a diesel. Jim

Indiana Ken · Mar 3, 2015

As long as the cans are sealed it should be good - I have never had anyone tell me otherwise. Now it is old oil and the additive package is different from todays oil. Some people want the older oil as they think it has a higher ZZDP level than new oil. That may actually be the case; use in newer vehicles is not advised as it can harm the catalytic converter. Older vehicles, should be no problem since it is the oil they were designed for and they don't have cats.

I had two cases of race oil from 20 + years back and advertised it in CL. The phone rang and he was here to pick it up within the hour. He was convinced it was better than the new stuff because of the greater amount of ZZDP. So be it the sale was good for me.

Sammy in Kansas · Mar 3, 2015

It is 5w 30 synthetic blend, states so right on the can, so 15-20 years ago must have been good oil. I have a a couple early 90's car and pickup I was hoping to use it up in if it will work for that.

da.bees · Mar 3, 2015

20 millon years in the ground,give or take 5 or 10 millon here and there,I don't think it will go bad in your life time.

IA Roy · Mar 3, 2015

There should be a spec on it such as SFCC, which is probably pretty old. Look up when that was, or look at owners manual on vehicle to see what they required. I think the recommended was a certain spec or newer

jim castleman · Mar 3, 2015

Twenty years ago I bought 20+ years old Sinclair cans of 20W oil from the local Co-op and used in my chore tracrors,Farmall H, M, and 560. Still have tractors and no problems with any of them.

pete 23 · Mar 3, 2015

I used to run that oil all the time in winter months. I believe it was called number 0 being 5w 30. Probably marked MS. Ran number l in summer,10w30. I started using it in 1954 so you can see multi grade oils are not exactly new. We have a restored Skelly service station in town that every once in a while some out of towner will pull into for some Keotane. The local funeral director bought it after the owner retired years ago and it makes a nice show piece on the corner of his lot.

DeltaRed · Mar 3, 2015

Sammy,The Skelly refinery was only a mile away from my childhood home in ElDorado Ks.I remember the smell very well.As kids we always called it "Skelly Smelly"! I would like to buy a quart from you as a 'momento'.Thanks.Steve

showcrop · Mar 4, 2015

I can't see what's the big deal. 15-20 years was just a few weeks ago, right?

jimg.allentown · Mar 4, 2015

How do you figure that it can hurt a catalytic converter???
The oil goes in the crankcase, and is generally not burned. How can it possibly get to a catalyst without passing through the combustion process. Too much of a stretch to even consider.

P. S. If the oil is being burned to such a degree as to find its way to the catalytic converter, there are bigger problems than the grade of the oil.

DR. EVIL · Mar 4, 2015

Wasn't that long ago all oil came in cardboard cans with steel tops & bottoms. I would cut the first can open after you empty it in your engine to inspect the inside of the can. I bought a case of 24 quart cans of oil 40 years ago that had sat in a warehouse for several years. My oil can spout had something that looked like grease on it when I pulled it out of the first can. Turned out every can had a quarter inch thick layer of the additives that settled out of the oil while sitting in the warehouse for years. The oil was 20W-40, I took it back to the supplier and swapped it for 10W-40 that was much fresher.

No sludge/grease in the empty can, continue oil change.

RodinNS · Mar 4, 2015

I think I'd dump each one out into a clear container and see how it looks before I used it. As long as there's no sludge in the bottom I'd use it. Otherwise... I think I'd just burn it in a waste oil stove or use it for bar oil or something...

Rod

ss55 · Mar 4, 2015

The sad part is those cardboard oil cans disappeared more like 30 to 35 years ago already (early 1980's?). Time flies.

What is the API oil specification on the cans, SE?

Texasmark1 · Mar 4, 2015

First thing is look for the API starburst rating, AKA SA........SN. Going to bet you that it won't meed the requirements of a lot of things manufactured in that time span, especially automotbles/trucks that operate on the road.

Now, does that really matter? Probably not, but maybe so. Some of the rating changes were EPA driven for clean air. But some also supported the fact that modern engines are built to tighter specs and generally operate at higher temps that older ones........case in point, my 2011 Silverado runs at 210F. GM vehicles I had back in the past ran at 97 ish F.

But I'd bet your lawnmower would run just fine on it.

Purely opinionated.

Mark

Kansas4010 · Mar 4, 2015

Wow I found a couple cases of this oil in my dads shed. I never used it but kept them for some reason.

old · Mar 4, 2015

I would not open one single can. There are collector that will pay good $$ for them. I have a can of 10W-40 Valvoline oil that has a Wal-Mart price tag of 83 cents and I'll just let it sit till some one wants to buy it

pete 23 · Mar 4, 2015

I think oil that age will have the old ML MM MS ratings and not the SA on up to SJ or higher that is on new oils. MS was on supreme for severe service. Diesel oils were marked Series 3 back then with more diesel ratings later on.

RN · Mar 4, 2015

Oil vapor get recycled/burned through the emission control systems- PCV leads to intake manifold instead of venting to outside air like pre 1966? engines. Zinc additives act like lead additives in gas to 'poison' /coat the catalytic convertor Platinum pellet/sponge beds Exhaust valves, intake valves through guide clearance, piston clearance when cold is another route for oil to get into exhaust system. Diesel spec oils meant for engine without cats still have the zinc additive that is a good 'pressure' lube for flat tappets and gear teeth- it is the default oil for on the road needs for many motorcyclists, 15-40 Rotella is the early Honda recommendation for the older 10-40 car engine oil no longer available in many convenient places. I use it in early Goldwing since the unitary design uses same oil in transmission and common crankcase. Old 5-30 f cleaned likely still good for snowthrower engine, splash lubed small engine in cold, light duty water cooled engines like parade tractor. RN

wisbaker · Mar 4, 2015

Look on the can for the starburst or doughnut that will tell you what specification the oil originally met. The rating will be S(?). SA is non-detergent and made for cars made before 1930, SB before 1951, SC before 1967, SD before 1971, SE before 1979. SF, SG and SH are listed as obsolete but don't associate a date with them. SJ is for 2001 and older SL for 2004 and older SM 2010 and older and SN is the current rating. The API explanation for the SN is it offers better high temperature deposit control, less sludging and better seal compatibility as well as better compatibility with emission control components and ethanol fuels up to 85%.

Seriously the cans probably have more value as collector items especially that they're Skelly rather than a large national brand. I'd research their collector value as Petrolinia (gas/oil) collectibles are a strong market.

If you insist in using them in a car,truck tractor or other equipment do your research and match the rating to the age appropriate equipment (don't use old spec oil in stuff that requires a newer spec). But even then oil has come a long way Between my Wife, Daughter and myself we have 3 cars the "new" one has 105,000 miles, the old one 289,000- a lot of the longevity on newer cars is in part due to better oil, don't know that I'd want to use an older spec oil even in the old car and give up some of the enhanced protection it provides.

Indiana Ken · Mar 4, 2015

Yes, there is a very small amount of oil that is burned. However, with the higher levels of ZZDP the concern is the additive can poison the catalyst over time, thereby reducing it's life.

David G · Mar 4, 2015

I would bet you can get way more for it selling it as a collector item than using the oil. I would not open the cans.

pete 23 · Mar 4, 2015

But Skelly has been out of business since 1977.

Texasmark1 · Mar 5, 2015

Agree. My how time flies.......and your memory.

NOS 5w 30 oil

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