ot chevy truck id

ericlb

Well-known Member
bought a 95 chevy 2500 4x4, truck needs some work, [ thats the only way i buy them] now i need a new steering box, but the parts place wants to know if its 7200 or 8600 gvw rated, the door tag is painted over, and the truck does not have a full floating rear end so im guessing its 7200,a light duty 3/4ton, anyway to tell from the vin number?, is there really any difference in steering boxes? problem is the truck with new tires on it, [mud and snow, not all season, but real in your face mud and snow tires], anyway it road walks, and i cant find any play in the steering linkage anywhere plus i got 2 full turns in the steering box adjustment, which i shouldnt be able to do, i think, this 'new' truck is about 10 years newer than i normaly consider buying,but it was owned by a lifelong friend, he bought it new, and he's gone now, and im kind of in new territory here
 
what im thinking too or a broken piece,ive took the slack out of many steering boxes on many different vehicles, and never ever got more than about 1/2 turn on the adjustment screw,usually a lot less than that, my 94 dodge had a problem with its steering box and apparently most did, dont know if gm shares a problem or not
 
this one has 8, no swapping that i know of, the previous owner was 86, so he wasnt a gear head changing parts out
 
I retired 2 years ago after working for a GM dealer for 40 years, don't remember adjusting many st. boxes, about 10 yrs.ago there was a problem on 1/2 ton trucks but that was for hi effort steering at low speeds. Most common problem for wandering was bad pitman arms, replaced a million of them.
 
thats what i first thought too, but i cant see any slop in this one, nor the tie rod ends ect
 
call your gm parts department at a local dealership and have the full vin number handy. ask them for a price on a gearbox. they will pull up the build sheet with the vin and tell you what it is.
 
If there is an alignment shop you trust (no this isn't sarcasm LOL), take it by and tell them you need an alignment.

They will tell you everything that is wrong with the front end, that it will all need to be replaced before they can align it.

Then you take it home and go by their recommendations, replace what you feel necessary, see how it drives. Then make the call on an alignment.
 
Check if it still has an option list on the floor of the glove box. It may be beat up and rubbed off, but sometimes you can read part of it. You can look up the three digit/number codes online, including axle and spring codes.

Myself, I'd ask a trusted shop to take a look at it before throwing new parts into it. For $50 or $100 many shops will diagnose a problem and give you a few tips on how to fix it yourself.

You can buy used shop manuals on ebay, older models can sell pretty cheap.
 
If the rear axle is only a semi-floater, with 8 lug wheels, it must be the 14 bolt (rear cover) 9 1/2" rear and the lighter 7200 lb. GVWR .
 
At least it runs. I won't buy a vehicle unless it's completely dead.

That said, check the toe setting; zero or toe out will cause wandering.
 
Rockautodotcom has pictures to look at.
Maybe you could figure out some thing from that or get more confused .
 
It does not matter what rear axle it has. The 9.5 SF was used on both the 6 lug and 8 lug 3/4 ton trucks of the time. A 10.5 rear end was optional with the 5.7, standard with the 7.4 and maybe with a 6.5. A 6 lug 3/4 ton GMT400 is 7200lb GVWR(9.5 axle only). An 8 lug GMT400 3/4 ton is 8600lb gvwr.(9.5 and 10.5 available) The 9.5 was available in a 1/2 ton under the RPO code F44. The same truck as a 6-lug 2500 minus a single rear leaf, with a GVWR of 6600lbs.
 
Give the vin(last 8)to your Chevy dealer and ask what the GVW is.Go ahead and price the steering box from them; like you are shopping around !
However I would bet your problem is more tire related than anything;tires like you describe are not usually designed to ride or drive good.They are only meant to give good traction in poor conditions.
Have a helper wiggle the steering wheel while you observe all the linkages,play in the box,etc.Also make sure the alignment is good before replacing the box.With the engine running,the freeplay in the box at the steering wheel should be 1 or 2 inches side to side.Mark
 
If it has a full floating rear, check the rear wheel bearings. Neighbor/friend of mine was fighting a F250 that wandered something bad. Kept blaming the front until he had me follow him to the alignment shop. I saw the back sway bad. Went home and tightened them up and instant cure.
 
What about the coupling between the steering column shaft and the steering box? Had one on a 95 S-10 get loose enough to cause noticeable play in steering wheel. It was NLA from GM.
 
Look the glove box, is the sticker still there with those 3 digit RPO codes. If so look for a C5Z (7200) or C6P (8600).
 

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