OT - Home Plumbing Question

ThadS

Member
The previous homeowner had a water softener installed. The plumber cut the incoming copper supply line, sweat a crimp fitting on the end and ran PVC line to the softener. They capped the other end of the main line. The output of the softener is PVC to a another crimp fitting that is connected to a tee added above the hot water heater inlet. My problem is weak water pressure inside the house. Is it worth while to remove the PVC and convert it back to copper?

On a tractor note, the old Ford is all gassed up and ready to go in case we actually get 6" of snow this weekend in the KC area.

Thanks in advance.
Thad
 
Unless the PVC is smaller than the copper, it will flow the same. Incoming water pressure might be an issue, or the shutoff valve is partially closed, or there is a restriction in the system. A pressure gauge should read at least 50 psi for reasonable flow. JIM
 
My parents had a softener on the well at their old house. It made a big difference in the pressure inside the house. The only way to compensate is to boost the pressure at the reservoir/bladder tank high enough that you get what you want inside.

Another thing I have found that mimics low water pressure is all of the 'low flow' faucets, etc on the market. Given that I am on a well I'm not paying a water bill each month, so I always take things like my shower head and enlarge the hole/ restriction in it to get more flow. It makes all the difference in the world.
 
What are the size of the all of the lines?

To try and help this situation on my house, I ran 1" copper through the softener and at the split for the water heater I used 3/4" copper for the feed to the water heater and the feed to the cold lines for the house. Just as an example.
 
If you found this it would probably be a restriction.

Paul
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Softeners can create quite a bit of restriction, and the smaller the softener the greater the restriction. They can also become "iron-bound" over time, in which case either the resin bed or entire softener needs to be replaced.
 

Whole house softening ? That doesn't make sense. I left the outside water taps and the cold water tap at the kitchen sink on hard water.
 
With out knowing the type of water softner or the hardness of the water it is hard to say what the problem may be.
You may want to add some Iron out to the salt tank. Have you checked the air pressure in the water tank?
I have had a water softner for 27 years with no problems with pressure. (whole house).

I have Iron, Iron bacteria and sulfur in my well.
 
The softener was installed in 2008 based on the manual left behind. I used the bypass and there was no change in pressure. I disassembled the inputs and the turbine was clean and I couldn't find any other obstructions. Unfortunately the plumbing is not setup to easily isolate the outside spigots so I think the plumber took the easy way out.

I am on rural water and they say it should be between 45 and 50psi. The copper is 3/4" and the PVC is 3/4". The copper only goes down to 1/2" when it branches.

I messed with the main shut off a little. It is a 1/4 turn ball valve and I think it might have been pushed too far and causing restriction.

I appreciate all of the feedback. Based on it, I think I will leave the PVC in place for now.

Thanks,
Thad
 
About all you can do is to rig a pressure gauge to different points in your system and see where there's a restriction, if there is one. It could very well be that the line from the meter to your house isn't big enough for the distance. No easy way to fix that.
 

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