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2 cycle mixture

R

Rkh

Member
Whats best way to get a 50 to 1 ratio for a gallon container?
What container to get a 2.6 ounce oil to the 1gal gas works
best? Stihl oil comes in a 6.4 container, so makes it hard to
make the right ratio of gas to oil.
 
stop by a motorcycle shop that ha drt bikes and atvs or go on line ad order a ratio-rite. has all the mix ratios and how much oil for so many gallons of gas. heres a ink. i carry one in my truck for weed wacker fuel mixes.
poke here
 
I use these.
I found a box of 5000 of these "Medicine Cups" on the road one day.

Easy to measure small amounts, and they are readily disposable. Hope the picture uploads.
a183102.jpg
 
The 6.4 oz is probably for 2.5 gals. Pretty sure they sell premeasured for 1 gal also. Kinda spendy, but convenient.
 
I bet sthil sells the right size bottles for 1 gal. mix. ? Your dealer just may not stock them.
 
I use full synthetic Stihl 2 stroke oil and it comes in a six pack group of gallon size 50:1 premix bottles. I always use at least 91 octane gas, too. I pump some gas into my pickup's tank first to purge the hose before filling the 1 gallon gas jugs. A little on the pricey side but my saws always start with no problems.
 
I buy my oil by the gallon and have a nice little glass measuring cup. I use 3 oz. of oil for the air cooled engines, 42-1. Some of my chainsaws are 40 years old and recommended 20-1, but I know that the oil is better now, also a little smoke keeps some of the mosquitoes away! I have 2 small outboards that I mix 50-1. Different oil for water cooled engines and premium without ethanol for all 2-cycles.
 
I remove labels and write ratios on side with perminate marker on empty Sta-bil and Lead-ad bottles. Might star pouring salad dressing in those bottles now that they eliminated squirt tops.LOL
 
I use a measuring cup. Check any dealer or a hardware store for a 2.6 ounce dose of oil and save the container for reuse. You can probably order a case online.
 
I have the ratio rite cup also. But I use Opti-2 synthetic oil. It comes in any size you want but you can get the little pouches that mix 1 gallon. It is for all ratios and has fuel stabilizer in it. I use it for all my 2 strokes. One mix for everything.
Opti 2
 

We go through a lot of 2 cycle mix. Buying the little 2.4 oz or whatever bottles is for the birds. I buy by the quart or gallon and measure out my mix with a dedicated measuring cup. Works fine.
 
I didn't see anyone mention it on here, but I buy the two cycle oil by the gallon jug then transfer it into a quart oil bottle that I keep in the milk crate with the gas, oil and other chainsaw essentials. In the bottom of the steel can I keep the chainsaw tools in are two of the little bottles of 2 cycle oil that have been refilled from the quart bottle.

I usually keep 2 one gallon cans of gas in the crate, use one until its gone then use the other, refill the first when I get back to the house.

I bought a 6 pack of those little bottles one time...keeps it simple. One little bottle, one gallon of gas, shake the gas can to mix, refill the little bottle, put it back into the tool can, put mix gas back into the saw crate.

I try to establish habits of doing things logically. It doesn't always turn out right the first time, but if I do it often enough, I figure out a good routine that works well.

By the way, I've never run out of gas while out cutting, even running 4 or 5 saws...

If we ever did run through 2 gallons of gas it surely must be break time...
 
I have professionally rebuilt hundreds of all type engines. With two stroke engines, I consider 50-1 mix as being an EPA issue.
That's not enough oil--in my opinion.
Therefore I always mix, at least, 40 to 1.
For simplicity, I use 3oz to one gallon and use a small Pyrex measuring glass. They are available most anywhere.
I buy my two stroke semi-synthetic oil in one gallon containers.
 
(quoted from post at 14:12:06 02/17/15) I have professionally rebuilt hundreds of all type engines. With two stroke engines, I consider 50-1 mix as being an EPA issue.
That's not enough oil--in my opinion.
Therefore I always mix, at least, 40 to 1.
For simplicity, I use 3oz to one gallon and use a small Pyrex measuring glass. They are available most anywhere.
I buy my two stroke semi-synthetic oil in one gallon containers.
Click to expand...

I agree. 50-1 is too lean IMO. In optimum conditions with a properly tuned saw it's fine. Take the average saw that's set lean by the owner who wants it to turn 14K unloaded, add in some carbon, maybe a slight air leak...that's how you melt a piston. 35 or 40-1 is much safer in the long run and won't hurt a thing.
 

This and Bret's post are interesting.I run all the 50:1 engines at 44:1.My sled ,which has oil injection,I've richened up a bit.The last new chain saw(Jred in '97) I bought required double the oil mix for break in per the manufacturer.Still have that saw and it still is a great performer.
Many people say that going heavy on the oil in the fuel will lower the octane of the fuel.I'm not seeing that.
 

[i:0d8801d99e]"Many people say that going heavy on the oil in the fuel will lower the octane of the fuel. I'm not seeing that"[/i:0d8801d99e]

That's something I have read and laughed at. In another forum I regularly visit, someone did an extensive test with different mixtures and made a timed video.
Interesting that the higher oil mixture ran slightly cooler and cut faster!
 
(quoted from post at 09:13:49 02/18/15)
(quoted from post at 14:12:06 02/17/15) I have professionally rebuilt hundreds of all type engines. With two stroke engines, I consider 50-1 mix as being an EPA issue.
That's not enough oil--in my opinion.
Therefore I always mix, at least, 40 to 1.
For simplicity, I use 3oz to one gallon and use a small Pyrex measuring glass. They are available most anywhere.
I buy my two stroke semi-synthetic oil in one gallon containers.
Click to expand...

I agree. 50-1 is too lean IMO. In optimum conditions with a properly tuned saw it's fine. Take the average saw that's set lean by the owner who wants it to turn 14K unloaded, add in some carbon, maybe a slight air leak...that's how you melt a piston. 35 or 40-1 is much safer in the long run and won't hurt a thing.
Click to expand...

More two stroke oil mixed with the gasoline lowers the octane rating , leans the air fuel mixture and makes the engine more prone to detonate .
Detonation is what burns holes though the center of a piston or breaks piston rings and piston ring lands.
Starting off with 91 to 94 octane non ethanol fuel instead of 87 octane is more important.
Anybody who says running 91 octane is too expensive through a chain saw and other two stroke gas engines has a false sense of economy.
 

I've no doubt you can get to a point where you have too much oil in the mix. But I think that a little much is better than too little. I've seen a thousand melted pistons, scored pistons and jugs actually, but I've never seen broken rings or holed pistons to any big extent in 2 stroke OPE. Once in a great while, yes. But you will see 50 scored pistons or bad crank bearings to 1 holed piston. At least that's what I've seen.
 
(quoted from post at 10:07:54 02/18/15)
This and Bret's post are interesting.I run all the 50:1 engines at 44:1.My sled ,which has oil injection,I've richened up a bit.The last new chain saw(Jred in '97) I bought required double the oil mix for break in per the manufacturer.Still have that saw and it still is a great performer.
Many people say that going heavy on the oil in the fuel will lower the octane of the fuel.I'm not seeing that.
Click to expand...
ttp://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
 
(quoted from post at 10:27:38 02/18/15)
[i:1999821f4d]"Many people say that going heavy on the oil in the fuel will lower the octane of the fuel. I'm not seeing that"[/i:1999821f4d]

That's something I have read and laughed at. In another forum I regularly visit, someone did an extensive test with different mixtures and made a timed video.
Interesting that the higher oil mixture ran slightly cooler and cut faster!
Click to expand...

http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
 
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