10w30 full synthetic or 10w40 non synthetic?

Geo-TH,In · Feb 1, 2015

The hydraulics on my terramite calls for motor oil, 10w40, not hydraulic oil. So using hyd oil is a mute discussion here. I'm following manufacturer’s recommendation.

Today Menards has Quaker state full synthetic on sale for $2.99 after a $2 rebate. They don't have 10w40 synthetic. Menards rebates is a no brainier for me, but I'm sure some hate it. Menards rebate is another mute issue for me.

The real issue: Is 10w30 full synthetic be better than 10w40 non synthetic? 10 w stands for 10 w in winter and the other number is the weight when it warms up. 15w is too much for my winter. I allow about 10-15 minutes for my hyd to warm up before using. 10w when cold, makes the power steering very stiff.

Keep in mind, synthetic oil can get hotter before it breaks down and my regular motor oil is breaking down, smelling burnt and turning dark. Oil breaks down under pressure and temp. I need 5 gallons. $12/gallon synthetic is a bargain.

Will 30 be enough when it calls for 40?

notjustair · Feb 1, 2015

You said it gets hot anyway. Use the 10-30 now and change it in June. If I remember right you had been using hydraulic in it, right? Was that you - I can't remember. Anyway, do it for the winter and change it in June.

Geo-TH,In · Feb 1, 2015

NEVER USED HYD OIL. THE MAN WHO REPAIRED MY HYD CYLINDER RECOMMENDED HYD OIL. I SAID NO. HE DIDN'T UNDERSTAND WHY.

I've always used 10w40.

mEl · Feb 1, 2015

(quoted from post at 08:01:08 02/01/15) You said it gets hot anyway. Use the 10-30 now and change it in June. If I remember right you had been using hydraulic in it, right? Was that you - I can't remember. Anyway, do it for the winter and change it in June.

I don't know how oil companies rate the viscosity change but, I have changed oil hundreds of time in equipment using 15/40 oil and can tell you that the way to get the quickest drain is to warm the engine up thoroughly. The idea that oils consistency gets thicker as the temperature increases is a provable false hood. There is I suppose an adequate explanation having to do with the load bearing abilities at temperature but oil body cannot be the issue.

JD Seller · Feb 1, 2015

George the main issue is the usage cycle that you doing with your Terramite. I think your using it harder than they really where designed for. The ones I have usually seen where used sparingly not heavily.

In my mind the oil viscosity/type is not the real issue. The oil getting too hot and breaking down is the real issue. I would be trying to figure out a better oil cooling system over whether this oil or that oil will solve your problem.

An oil cooler with an electric fan could be located in different locations and might be more of a help.

Rich_WI · Feb 1, 2015

I bought that same oil a few years ago, impulse buy. When I got home I researched it some, found out that Quaker State wasnt a full synthetic after all, it was a blend but the bottle said it was a full synthetic. In the end, I didnt use it so now I got a couple cases on the shelf just taking up space.

In your case, you may want to research it further before putting it in. Bobistheoilguy.com is a good resource, those guys take oil serious.

As for the 10-40 vs. 10-30, you might want to rethink that one. If you have having an overheat issue, why would you want to put in a THINNER oil? What do you think Terramite would have to say about that? If you are overheating (heat thins oil) you should be going the other direction, say a 20-50 oil. But its your money, take your chances...

ss55 · Feb 1, 2015

I would ask your question on the manufacture's website, or check the FAQ on that site if the question has already been answered.

farmboy48 · Feb 1, 2015

My son about 10 years ago in high school did a science fair project, testing different 10-30 oils for heat breakdown, flowability at -30 degrees, and friction resistance after it had been heated (boiled) for 20 minutes and at room temperature. He used 12 or 15 different brands of oil both synthetic and regular. The Amsoil 10-30 came out on top in all tests. If I remember right, Pennzoil 10-30 was second. He took 3rd place in the state science fair in Fargo.

Dick ND

russ1 · Feb 1, 2015

I would use what the manufacturer recommends.

Dean · Feb 1, 2015

Using something other than what the manufacturer recomends is a mute issue for me.

Dean

sourgum · Feb 1, 2015

Was synthetic oil invented or available when the manufacturer wrote the hydraulic oil recommendation. They were probably referring to conventional motor oil as good enough when the manual was written. One can cross reference oil quality by the API rating on the back of the every container.

Tom-NoCenTX · Feb 1, 2015

First off I would not put Quaker State on a red wagon. If you want the very best for year round, then get 5W40 full syn Mobil Delvac One. It is diesel motor oil.
Tom

J.Wondergem · Feb 1, 2015

Keep in mind the synthetic oil will transfer heat away too.

jacks · Feb 1, 2015

Synthetic oil will seep past seals more than conventional oil. This could turn into an expensive problem on your terramite if it starts to cause leakage in your hydraulic cylinders. It could be a worse problem in a hydraulic system running 1500-2000 psi compared to running it in an engine at 40/psi. I have a Case 646 loader, similar machine to a Terramite. It has an oil cooler and fan in front of the engine. It calls for motor oil in the hydraulic system too, but it was built before synthetic oil became commonly available. I think you should stick with conventional oil in the factory recommended viscosity. If your machine has an oil cooler, it is not working properly. Some oil coolers have a filter on the inlet, the filters can become clogged and cause overheating. If you don't have an oil cooler installed, you can probably find a good useable one at a junkyard or eBay. A fan is necessary too. Hope you can get this problem solved.

Geo-TH,In · Feb 1, 2015

Already mounted a fan, posted it yesterday. No room to safely attach a cooler. Been monitoring temps, around 130 in winter. Plan to attach a thermometer to hottest point, may it be the pump of hyd motor, not sure yet.

As I said yesterday, I may have been part of the problem by installing a solid skid plate to keep sticks out of the small area where the pump, hyd motor, controls, and filter is located. Upgraded to expanded metal and fan. Once I figure out which point to attach a thermostat to, the fan will come on automatically.

I think I will call terramite and pick their brains.

BTW, Did you see my post on cutting the steins filter and kawasaki filter apart. Glad you recommended the steins. Good filter.
hyd fan.

Geo-TH,In · Feb 1, 2015

I did install a fan. There is a hyd filter already. It looked good when I changed at 250 hrs. Just the oil breaking down under stress and perhaps heat. I will figure out, rest assured.

Ellis Kinney · Feb 1, 2015

Here is a classic issue with not using what the manufacturer recommends. I had a 1976 Mercedes with a four speed. The transmission used x number of quarts of GM automatic transmission fluid. I thought I would be smart and use Amsoil automatic transmission fluid because it was slippery and would reduce wear. I couldn't shift to any gear without grinding slightly. I changed back and all was fine. Ellis

Geo-TH,In · Feb 1, 2015

Dean, You advice may be the best advice if I didn't run in to conflicting information from terramite. On tractor sticker says change hyd oil every 300 hrs. Found a terramite manual says change it every 250 hrs. One place says use 10w40. Found another place that says use 15w40 when temps are about 40. Still another place says use 15w40 when temps are above 32. One manual says hyd holds 5 gallons. Another place says only the tank is 5 gallons, 7 gallons total. What is a person to think? I just changed oil with 10w40 motor oil, 5 gallons, so for the rest of the winter I'll use it. Then in spring change to a good 15w40. The problem is I will still have some of the old stinky oil left behind. Now 5 new gallons was added to 2 stinky gallons. That means I'll always have 2 gallons of old oil left behind. Will take many 5 gallon oil changes to purge out most of the old stuff. I may try extending the boom and bucket. Drain the oil, then let gravity lower boom and bucket, see if I can't get more of the oil out of system.

MarkB_MI · Feb 1, 2015

>Keep in mind the synthetic oil will transfer heat away too.

Please explain that statement. To where does it transfer heat that plain old dino oil can't?

dej(Jed) · Feb 2, 2015

Go synthetic. It will run cooler.

10w30 full synthetic or 10w40 non synthetic?

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