Transmission Oil level check ..what sort of Oil is suitable

Bill Fowles

New User
Hi All! I have a 1955 TEA 20 that I know little about. I have to shift it from a flood prone area relatively promptly and it was driving etc about 6 months ago. My concern is that it has stopped leaking transmission oil and I would like to know how to check the level or what sort of oil should go in there. Any help would be much appreciated. Bill
 
You should also place this request over on the Ferguson forum as you will get more responses. Hal
 
(quoted from post at 14:46:11 01/11/15) Hi All! I have a 1955 TEA 20 that I know little about. I have to shift it from a flood prone area relatively promptly and it was driving etc about 6 months ago. My concern is that it has stopped leaking transmission oil and I would like to know how to check the level or what sort of oil should go in there. Any help would be much appreciated. Bill
Originally it used GL-1 90 weight mineral oil. If you are using it in cold weather then you way want to use 10w30 engine oil so the hydraulics will work faster in cold weather. The GL-1 will work in cold weather it just requires warming up before the hydraulics will work very fast,but letting a tractor warm up in the cold before using it is a good idea anyway. Some say to use modern universal hydraulic fluids but lots of them are not yellow metal safe and the transmission in your tractor has bronze and brass in the transmission. The GL-1 is available at TSC in two gallon jugs. It says Ford tractor mineral oil or you can go to Napa and buy it in five gallon jugs. After draining all three drain plugs under your tractor, remove the bottom bolt where the hydraulic dipstick is. Pour about a gallon in and wait ten to fifteen minutes and pour the next one in. If your pour it in too fast the oil will run out on the clutch and brake shoes. Pour it in until oil starts to run out of the bottom bolt hole where the dipstick is. That is slightly lower than the full mark on the dipstick but it will keep the oil from running out on your brake shoes and clutch from worn seals.
 
I commend you for learning a valuable lesson about old tractors and farm
equipment "If it stops leaking it's probably out of oil, antifreeze and
hydraulic fluid"

Some folks have to fix a lot of stuff before they learn that one.
 
(quoted from post at 08:22:49 01/11/15)
(quoted from post at 14:46:11 01/11/15) Hi All! I have a 1955 TEA 20 that I know little about. I have to shift it from a flood prone area relatively promptly and it was driving etc about 6 months ago. My concern is that it has stopped leaking transmission oil and I would like to know how to check the level or what sort of oil should go in there. Any help would be much appreciated. Bill
Originally it used GL-1 90 weight mineral oil. If you are using it in cold weather then you way want to use 10w30 engine oil so the hydraulics will work faster in cold weather. The GL-1 will work in cold weather it just requires warming up before the hydraulics will work very fast,but letting a tractor warm up in the cold before using it is a good idea anyway. Some say to use modern universal hydraulic fluids but lots of them are not yellow metal safe and the transmission in your tractor has bronze and brass in the transmission. The GL-1 is available at TSC in two gallon jugs. It says Ford tractor mineral oil or you can go to Napa and buy it in five gallon jugs. After draining all three drain plugs under your tractor, remove the bottom bolt where the hydraulic dipstick is. Pour about a gallon in and wait ten to fifteen minutes and pour the next one in. If your pour it in too fast the oil will run out on the clutch and brake shoes. Pour it in until oil starts to run out of the bottom bolt hole where the dipstick is. That is slightly lower than the full mark on the dipstick but it will keep the oil from running out on your brake shoes and clutch from worn seals.

Hi Jason... Warm where I come from.. 20W50 might do the trick...Your thoughts on this Oil?? (Detergent or no detergent???) Also... can you be more specific about the dipstick location? I must be blind!!!
 
Hi Jason... Warm where I come from.. 20W50 might do the trick...Your thoughts on this Oil?? (Detergent or no detergent???) Also... can you be more specific about the dipstick location? I must be blind!!!



See the round silver plate just below the lift control lever with 6 bolts holding it? There should be a dipstick in that plate. There's one in the pic, but the top loop is broken off so it's hard to see.
BillL
 
(quoted from post at 16:58:19 01/11/15)
Hi Jason... Warm where I come from.. 20W50 might do the trick...Your thoughts on this Oil?? (Detergent or no detergent???) Also... can you be more specific about the dipstick location? I must be blind!!!



See the round silver plate just below the lift control lever with 6 bolts holding it? There should be a dipstick in that plate. There's one in the pic, but the top loop is broken off so it's hard to see.
BillL

Ahh! Got it and empty as suspected. Your thoughts on 20W/50?
 
(quoted from post at 23:52:38 01/11/15)
(quoted from post at 08:22:49 01/11/15)
(quoted from post at 14:46:11 01/11/15) Hi All! I have a 1955 TEA 20 that I know little about. I have to shift it from a flood prone area relatively promptly and it was driving etc about 6 months ago. My concern is that it has stopped leaking transmission oil and I would like to know how to check the level or what sort of oil should go in there. Any help would be much appreciated. Bill
Originally it used GL-1 90 weight mineral oil. If you are using it in cold weather then you way want to use 10w30 engine oil so the hydraulics will work faster in cold weather. The GL-1 will work in cold weather it just requires warming up before the hydraulics will work very fast,but letting a tractor warm up in the cold before using it is a good idea anyway. Some say to use modern universal hydraulic fluids but lots of them are not yellow metal safe and the transmission in your tractor has bronze and brass in the transmission. The GL-1 is available at TSC in two gallon jugs. It says Ford tractor mineral oil or you can go to Napa and buy it in five gallon jugs. After draining all three drain plugs under your tractor, remove the bottom bolt where the hydraulic dipstick is. Pour about a gallon in and wait ten to fifteen minutes and pour the next one in. If your pour it in too fast the oil will run out on the clutch and brake shoes. Pour it in until oil starts to run out of the bottom bolt hole where the dipstick is. That is slightly lower than the full mark on the dipstick but it will keep the oil from running out on your brake shoes and clutch from worn seals.

Hi Jason... Warm where I come from.. 20W50 might do the trick...Your thoughts on this Oil?? (Detergent or no detergent???) Also... can you be more specific about the dipstick location? I must be blind!!!

20w50 will probably be ok. I know of some using 15w40 diesel oil with no problems. If you can find non detergent oil it would be better because the design of that pump with the original GL-1 which is non detergent, it will let particles of dirt in the oil settle to the sump and they remain there until the pump is removed and it is all cleaned out. If a high detergent oil is used it will keep the particles in suspension and they will keep being ran thru the hydraulic pump since there is no filter. So non detergent would be better, low detergent would be ok.
 

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