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Farmall A Torque values

M

Mvvance

Member
I'm replacing my head gasket again, since the first one I put on leaked. I had the head shaved, but it still leaked. I think that didn't have the hold down nuts on top of the head tight enough.
I didn't see any values in Farmall owners manual.
Does anyone know what torque setting that I should use this time? Also, should I coat the new gasket with a sealer. I notice that one side of the new gasket is steel. I've heard that that was what Farmall originally used.
Thanks
 
Are you sure it's not the O-Rings on the sleeves?

Originally they where torqued to 65lbs, that's been revised to 85lbs. The last one I used said it wanted that copper spray on it. I know some folks use aluminum paint too. The copper stuff is easy to come by.

K
 
As per the I-T manual torque for the head is 65 ft/lbs but if I remember right that has been changed to 85FT/lbs. As for a sealer Copper coat is about the only one other then aluminum paint.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I didn't quite follow you on the sleeve o rings?. I'll use 85 ft/lbs on the 9 nuts that hold the head on.
Thanks again
 
'sleeve o-rings' talking about an internal leak-antifreeze in crankcase oil] its happened before where the head gasket was replaced, thought it didn't fix, not realizing sleeves are removable with o-ring seals. does not apply if leaking to outside]
 
I got it now about the "O" rings. The leak was on the outside of the head in my case. I would just like to verify that I can torque the head hold down nuts to 85 ft/lbs. that seems like a lot.
Thank!
 
Ya 85 seems to be a lot but that is the new spec for that engine. A number of years ago I built a BA which is a B from the transmission forward and a A from the transmission back. I used as many used parts as I could even used a used head gasket. Painted the head and block with 6 coats of aluminum paint before installing the head gasket and head. Last coat I did was still wet when I installed the head. Reason I did this is I had a B with a locked up engine and this A that lost a fight wit ha tree and broke into a number of parts. Front axle broken off engine broken off torque tube cracked badly etc.
 
And after you start the tractor run it at least a half hour to warm it up and retorque the head and reset the valves.
 
By the way my e-mail is always open and some people in the past have gotten my phone number so they can call me and I can then help them one on one. Had one guy that did that off and on for around 4 months but he got his tractor up and running by doing so
 
(quoted from post at 17:06:52 01/01/15) By the way my e-mail is always open and some people in the past have gotten my phone number so they can call me and I can then help them one on one. Had one guy that did that off and on for around 4 months but he got his tractor up and running by doing so
Click to expand...
Hopefully, all will go well this time, with your helpful comments, I shouldn't have any problems.
Mike
 
By the way the sleeves should stick up just a little bit so when the head is on it hows them down and tight to the sleeve seals. Ran into a problem where some one had plained the block and left the sleeve in and then the sleeve seals and head gasket would not seal as they should have but that was on an A/C C
 
Good point!
I almost forgot, is there pattern for torquing down the nuts on the head? If not, I'll just start in the center and criscross out.
 
Not really any pattern as such as long as you work out form the center and crises cross. Work up slowly as in say 20ft/lbs then 40 then 60 etc till your at 85ft//lbs then run it till good and warm and retorque
 
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