John Deere G W

My Dad had bought a John Deere G Wide front adjustable. My question is on this john Deere G W. On the back rear tires is there a Bolt that rides a gear on the rear axles which when turn moves the wheels in or out. I know my 1956 70 D has them set up that way. I am askiing because I have to pick it up and put it on my trailer and take it to his house. Thanks Brent
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No. look at the pic. The G has the old style splined axles.They can be a real pain to move.. The 70 has the new improved 'rack and pinion' adjustable axle. That axle uses a key, not splines. They are
NOT interchangeable.Might be easier to use a different trailer'
 
That tractor is not as wide as you might be thinking it is... Probably about 85 at the most to the outside of the tires. We hauled a GM with the wheels all the way out on our car trailer, which is 20foot, 10,000 GVW, and 80 inches between fenderwells...

We did have to remove one fender to get the rear wheels of the tractor by, BUT if they had been aired up, I think that it would have cleared, and the hubs are all the way out on the axles... Good luck!! They are heavy and rather large...
 
Side note: JD introduced those new axles with the 50/60/70 series tractors. that system is still used today.It is a vast improvement over the old splined axle.Word of advise: if you are going to haul/collect/work on old tractors in the future,you really need to think about a 'deck over' trailer. Those tandem 'car hauler' utility trailers are just too narrow for hauling tractors.
 
Tractor looks good, but the 3ph is Bass ackwards.

None easy adjusting wheels were standard....
 
Looks like there are a set of wheel weights on the inside of the rears as well. That might not get it the way, but it might complicate things.
 
It sure is. The lift cranks need to be switched side to side (P877A on the left and P876A on the right). The draft links need to be turned end for end.
 
Not too hard to move the rear wheels in. Just jack up the tractor, remove the center hub, then put a chain through the slots in the wheel center and around the axle housing. Turn the wheel so it tightens the chain and it will slide the wheel in.

Moving the wheel out is bit more difficult unless you have a hydraulic jack that will work on it's side, Just use the chain with the loop on the outside and jack the wheel out. If you don't have a jack, then hold a long bar across the end of the axle and turn the wheel until it forces the wheel out.

After moving in or out, be sure to replace the locking center hub and tighten tight so the wheel doesn't walk one way or the other. That's how we moved the rear wheels on our '48 G.
 
I've got a tricycle G and a GW. With about 3 inches of axle exposed on the outer ends either tractor will go on my 84 inch wide utility trailer between the fenders just fine. And, this tread width is correct if you want to pull a 3-14 moldboard plow. It helps to loosen...not remove the 6 inner bolts on the wheel centers too and lube the axles with some kind of rust solvent before you try to slide the wheels. Whatever don't beat up the wheels with sledge hammers...they don't help that much.
 

We just ran the loop of chain thru the wheel center and attached it to the drawbar of the other JD and twisted the chain to pull the wheel out..

You don't really need to use the "Pinions" on the Later models. If the Pinion is stuck, just remove the complete Wedge, turn the wheel about 30 degrees on the axle and work the wheel to where you want it, rotate to allow the Pinion to re-engage and replace the Wedge..
On that 3-Point, besides needing to turn the Lower arms end-for-end, the lower arm mounts need to be moved toward the Front of the drawbar bracket (they are going to be too long, as they are)..
NICE "G"..!
Ron.
 
By where the hubs are on axles, you are abt. 6" too wide to go on a fendered trailer. 83-84" is max. I would borrow a flat deck trailer. Once you try moving those in , you will wish you had. Nice to be home in warm shop when attempting this.
 
These guys who say those wheels are "easy to move" have never moved a wheel thats been in one place/never moved for 20 or more years.Even worse if its been outside.Those things will be rusted solid.Kind of 'growed together'.A thick coating of paint doesnt help either.But if they been moved recently and the axles/hubs are oiled a bit,they're not too bad.The chain method works well. To move out,place a jack on the end of the axle.loop the chain around that and jack the wheel out.I use a handy man.If really tight a hydralic jack works.You may need to put a 'saddle' on it to hold the chain.
 
I got a call from the person I bought it from he said it is almost 85 inches out. 84 1/2 inches. I plan to go up there tomarrow and just plain try to load it up and haul it to my parents house this weekend. Yes my daddy wanted this tractor so he got it. I like my john deere 1956 70 diesel.I got the walking gear on the axles to adjust the wheels. Thanks for all the HELP. Brent.
 
I hauled a tractor on my car trailer that was just a little too wide to go between the fenders, so I stacked a couple 2x10's next to the fenders and drove the back tires up on to them. The tires flexed enough that the tires barely touched the fenders, I chained it down tight and made the 100+ mile trip home.
 

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