OT-Well houses

JEC

Member
My old well house is a 4x4 square wood box that covers a water tank and pump. Sometimes when it gets to 20 degrees or less, it won't kick on and I have to go out there and touch the points together. So anytime it goes to get that cold, I always try to go out and put a small candle in a coffee can inside the house and it keeps it warm enough and I don't have to touch the points.
My old well house is starting to get shabby and I'm getting ready to build a new 4x4 house basically the same design, but put some insulation in this one and maybe rig up a light switch with a bulb to keep it warm.
My question is, before I build a new one, is there something simpler that I could do that I am overlooking that would work better and keep it warmer?? Wrap it in insulation and cover with a garbage can, etc.
Thanks in advance
 
I got a cement well house with a door on top. Dirt piled around it. Love it. Rat free stays warm .do need a heat lamp a few days in January sometimes.
 
I would think, if you're in similar climate to here, an appropriate size enclosure, with adequate access (door) or removal (say you needed to do something in the well casing, pump, drill etc.) Insulate properly, and install light fixtures, at least 2 for bulbs that provide heat. I found ours with both bulbs out once, so maybe I'd want another one, drop the wattage for each, a little redundancy, vz frozen pipes, "well" worth it ! LOL !
 
Since the government has banned incandescent light bulbs it will be a lot harder to keep those well houses many have warmed up. I guess they figured with all the global warming you would not have to worry about it freezing ? LOL
Maybe you can let a few illegal aliens shack up in there and keep it warm from body heat.
I see this going "POOF" But I still see this as ON TOPIC as things like this affect innocent people and their tractors in their every day lives.
 
I have the same size well house as you but is insulated. I use two 40 watt bulbs when the temp gets in the single digit without wind chill.
 
I have a well at the barn like you describe. I use a 100 watt light bulb to keep it warm.

A freind with a similar situation only had 240 volts at the well I helped him wire 2 light bulbs in series to heat his. Could not seem to find 240 light bulbs anywhere.

You can even get real fancy and use a thermocube that turns on the light when it gets cold out.
 
you use a heat lamp like reptiles and chicken coupes use with a thermostat to turn it on and off.
I think they come in different wattage. or look for heat wrap and wrap the wire around the pipe. I know they come with a sensor.
 

Our well house has concrete floor, 3 ft brick sides, and a wood roof that hinges open. Use a 100 watt bulb (can still get them online) and that hasn't failed yet.
 
Do you have any problems with the rest of the pump freezing? If not it sounds like the problem is in the switch that won't trip at cold temperatures. What would a new switch cost?

On a livestock farm in a colder climate we install the pump and tank below ground in the well pit and put insulation over the pit. Livestock use enough water that the heat in the water keeps things from freezing. If there's no livestock either add a heater or keep a faucet running slowly.
 
I used the top half of an old hog feeder for my well house,... the domed lid fits nice at ground level and keeps everything working as it should.
No heat, and no insulation,... located in NW Kansas.
 
When did that happen; the "gubberment" banning incandescent and what for? We can still buy them down here in the Republic of Texas, or is it back to Tejas?

But they are 40 watt appliance and 60-75w soft whites readily available. Can't find a 100w or so any more, but I think it's because they are replaced with the 26w neons, 100 incandescent replacements, of which I use a lot and like the low wattage, but sometimes need the heat the incandescent gives.

On the house, insulating and keeping the wind out makes a heck of a difference and a 100 w bulb will keep it toasty way down there in temp. Your #1 enemy is wind, same for your house....stop the leaks #1.

On using an infrared heater or anything, you have to input more "calories" of heat than the weather takes away and if it's cold and the wind is blowing onto what you are trying to warm, that becomes a problem.

Other thing is fire. You don't want to wrap everything up nice and cozy, put in a heat source and catch the whole shebang on fire.

What does work is a 120v heat strip/tape which usually kicks on at about 45F and has like 25w per foot. Hard to set that on fire or melt anything even with a double wrap and insulation over it.

Big box and hardware stores sell them in various lengths. Put that on your pump and what all and wrap your insulation around it including rainproofing.

Really after you factor in all that, especially moisture and wind intrusion, an insulated box and bulb is really simple.

Mark
 
I would make the well house big enough to be able to get inside of it and work on the pump if you have to. My brother in law made a nice little one for his parents and it's 3 x 5 feet. It's still a little small I think. Had to replace the pressure switch a few times and working on your knees isn't fun when it's cold outside. Can only get my head in the well house. I would put a 100 watt bulb in there on a thermostat so it isn't burning all the time. You'll get more life out of the bulb that way.
 
other alternatives are runnint something like a chicken brooder lamp in there on a timer that comes on at night and goes off in the morning. insulation helps.

since you have power in there already.. the lamp and timer should be easy.
 
The 100 were the first banned. The rest are to follow.
Regular old fashion 4 foot fluorescence bulbs and ballasts are going going gone too.
 
Hello jec,

What ever you do to the well house won't help a bit, if the switch is sticking when cold. Unless it is frozen, you'll have the same problem. If the switch is 10 years old, why not change it first?, It may be all you need to fix the problem,

Guido.
 
This just goes to show why this country is in such sad state of affairs. No offense to you either. The news media did do stories on it but very little. I just googled 100w light bulb ban and all sorts of stuff came up including more than I had even heard about. Goes back to at least 2011.
If you like your light bulbs you can keep your light bulbs ! LOL If you like your health care plan you can keep it too ! NOT !!!!!
Lies lies lies and no main stream media fact finders to go after the truth.
I don't want this to get poofed but it likely will. This is the kind of stuff that people NEED to know and get it stopped.
 
The old lightbulb trick is fast becoming a thing of the past, the goverment has outlawed our wonderful lightbulbs that we used to use. Unless you are a hoarder and have several dozen to keep you in bulbs, you will have to come up with something else. I would build the box with about 4" of rigid foam insulation on the sides and top, and then get one of the small square electric heaters and a thermostat controlled plug, TSC used to have them that would only power what ever is plugged in when below 45 degrees, that will ensure your pump and points do not get frozen. I likely would also replace the points now rather than have to deal with them in the freezing weather.
 
I missed the fact that the pressure switch isn't working because the water inside it has already frozen. A light bulb or heater on a timer, or better yet on a thermostat would work well.

As others mentioned, a 15 amp Farm Innovators TC-3 Thermo Cube is available on Amazon for $13 with free shipping. On model turns on at 35F and turns off at 45F. A 90 watt outdoor flood light bulb would be a very robust substitute for a standard 100 watt light bulb if none are available.
 
I did the 100 watt light routine for a few years; two things I found:
1) you need 2 lights which you screw in 2 weeks apart that way one is always on, the lights will only last about 30 days.
2) When the power goes out so does your heat source and you may have freezing pipes.

So I solved all these issues with a small propane wall heater. Turn it on when the temperatures stay consistently below freezing. Loss of power doesn't affect the heater and it only goes off if you let your propane run out.
Good luck.
 
(quoted from post at 23:18:07 11/13/14) Ah yes 100 Watt incandescent bulbs are gone but not 135 watt or rough service bulbs.

It's been great to hear that the light bulb mfr. and retailer stimulus package is working well. $2+ for a 100 watt rough service bulb to replace an incandescent bulb that used to be available for 20-25 cents.

100 watt incandescents were available at Menards stores until about 6 or so months ago. As they discontinued them, the shelf price went up to about $6.50 a 4-pack.

AG
 
Why use a bulb when you know it's going to fail and when you figure out it has failed your pipes are froze. I use a milk house heater that has a thermostat. It only heats when needed, not 24/7. Set it at the lowest setting and forget about it.
 
Went through that for many years finally dropped a submerged pump in the well ran new line to the crawl space and pressure tank and let it be. Removed the pump house heat bulbs insulation etc.
 
NRCS put a well in for me when the spring developments they did failed in a droughty year and I had to let the cows back into a stream for water. I had a 1500 gallon septic tank put in near the well and knocked a manhole in the top and put the tank and switches down in the tank, then built an access hatch on top. The tank and electrical stuff, being in the tank, and about eight feet down into the ground, stays frost free and no other electric heaters are needed.
 

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