First Tractor

Hi i am looking into purchasing a tractor for my 5 acres. i have 3 out of these 5 acres that are way rough for any kind of riding mower to mow. its flat but its just really ruff. i am looking into something like a ford 8n. but i am not so sure i like the idea that i have to be moving in order for the brushhog to work. and this tractor will be used for brush hogging 90% of the time. i would also like for it to be able to plow snow or level gravel, occasionally. as i have an atv that i use to plow the driveway but it would be nice to have the tractor as a backup if needed. i would also like it to be able pull a small plow. I have never owned a tractor nor have i operated one. i can work on most things myself so i am open to getting an older one that will need some tinkering. its not like i am gonna be using it on a daily basis and needing it to make ends meat. if any of you guys could reccomend a tractor that will meet my needs i would greatly appreciate it. and if you could shed some light on the whole not a seperate clutch for the brushhog i would appreciate it. in my area i can get a decent ford 8n for 1250 dollars. That runs and drives good. i would like it to be in the under 2000 range but i would be willing to spend up to around 3000 if theres one thats a significant upgrade. i really dont know much about it other than what i pose above that i have found in my research online. like i said i really just need a big heavy duty lawnmower. Thanks in advance
 
For your purposes a "utility" tractor would work well, something
about the size of the 8N but with some more modern features
could be a 600/800 series Ford, a 2000/3000/4000 series Ford, a
Ferguson or Massey Ferguson 35 or a 135, or lots of other similar
models. Look around at what is available locally and you will be
able to find something suitable as this is a quite common type of
tractor. If you are not in a hurry you can get a good price soone or
later. Tires are a big factor as they have gone very high in price of
late years.
Zach
 
Several manufacturers introduced small tractors in the mid-50's that had independent PTO available as standard, some as an option, which makes doing PTO work much nicer. We bought a new 1957 Model 335 MM Utility that was very similar to the 1948 8N that we traded in.

Oliver had the 55 utility that was similar, IHC had the 300 Utility and Case also had a 300 Utility; we considered all those makes when we bought the 1957 new. There should be some of those models around that sell for about the same price as an 8N - just make sure that they do have live PTO as some might not if it was an option when it was sold.
 
I'm curious about your concern that with an 8N
your brushhog doesn't work unless you are moving.
Isn't that when a brushhog does its work, when
it's moving? Anyway, a brushhog will turn on an
8N if the PTO is on and the tractor's in neutral.
In short, I think this point is a non-issue.

A brushhog on an 8N is very do-able, as I know
from many years of using one. You wouldn't
believe some of the places I've waded into with a
little 8N and a Sidewinder. Tough. Like
anything else, you just have to learn what it
will and will not do.
 
What was "acceptable" in the 1940's is a long way from being safe and convenient by more modern standards. Better brakes, power steering. live pto/hydraulics, etc, are considered as convenience items by many, but they make for a far safer tractor, especially in the hands of a relative beginner. And without question, you want something with 3-point hitch if it's your only tractor.

The N series Fords were light years ahead of horses, but don't stack up well against tractors built in the late 50's and on into the 70's. It's not impossible to find a tractor from the 60's or 70's in or very near the price range you mentioned. I'd even consider holding out for something just a tick higher than that range, possibly in the $3500 to $5000 range. You'd be amazed at what a few more bucks will get you.

My personal favorites are Ferguson/Massey Ferguson 35, 135, 150's, Ford 2000, 3000's, IH 454 to 484, Deere 1520, 1530, Case 430 or 530's, or Oliver 550's.

As mentioned, look for something that comes with good rubber. New tires on top of the "going rate" price tag will be a deal breaker in many cases.

And don't be lured in by the attraction of new paint. Make certain what's UNDER that paint isn't junk. A $20 can of paint can make a $500 beater look like a $5000 good buy to the untrained eye. New paint doesn't always indicate trouble, but it sure can hide a LOT of sins.
 
I think the Ford 8N would serve you well. The
way the foot clutch works is when you step on
the pedal everything stops. Forward motion,
PTO, and hydraulic lift. Not that I see any of
this as a big problem. You don't bush hog
stopped! If you want to raise the mower with
the tractor stopped, just throw the gear shift
lever in neutral and let the foot clutch pedal
up. Warning. The PTO will also be turning for
the hydraulic pump to work. One thing you must
ABSOLUTELY have on a non live PTO tractor like
the 8N is a PTO overrunning clutch. That is a
little unit that slips on the tractor PTO and
then you in turn hook the mower to that. What
it does is allow the mower blades to keep
spinning when you stop the tractor. Without it
the inertia of the spinning blades will
continue to push the tractor and bad things
happen fast if you are up against a bank or the
side of a building, or fence or whatever! Any
tractor parts store sells them or you can get
one online. Your 8N will likely have the small
1 1/8 PTO shaft. Modern bushhogs will have
connections for 1 3/8 shaft. If you purchase
the correct overrunning clutch it will also
correct this size difference. That's my
thoughts. There are lots of other small cheap
tractors out there that may or may not have
live independent PTO. Availability in your area
and whatever seems to present itself may still
be your best choice. The Ford 8N (or 9N. 9N has
3 speed transmission, 8N has four) is a bullet
proof little tractor. Henry Ford made nearly a
million of them and lots of them still around
so it is easy to get parts for them. I'd ditch
the 4 wheeler.
 
I also would recommend the MF135 It handles my 5 brush hog good and also run a 6' 3point tiller. Plow and cultivators are also available ad decent prices.
 
I second "2 OLD's" comments.

You might:
Find an antique tractor club, and buy somebody a beer to help you
look - test drive - etc.
Check the air filter can for sludge - if the owner has ignored that,
other things are probably not good.
Think about how far away the dealer is who would provide
service/parts.
 
I agree with Nebraska Cowman. 1250 is a good price for a good running 8N and the overrunning clutch will solve the problem with inertia making it hard to stop the tractor. I have a Massey 35 which is a wonderful tractor for your needs. It may be a bit higher but it is a brute. It also has live PTO and hydraulics. This means you don't have to have the PTO running in order to raise the 3 point.
 
Had 2 8n's. But would upgrade to a little newer. A
independent or continuous PTO and Hyd is 100percent
better. Not very popular on here but some of my
neighbors have bought new Kubota hydrostatic
tractors and loaders for so much a month and no
interest for 5 yes.
 
I would recommend the 8n yes they have a few limitations
but they are easy to work on parts are cheap and esy to find
I'd definatley get another if i had $
 
I like the 8n's. Would like to upgrade my 9n to
an 8n. Everybody has an option about the 8n's.

They either love them or hate them. I do think
the worst implement you can put on an 8n is a
bush hog. The problem is most people let the
grass get too tall before they mow. 8n's are
also geared a little fast for heavy grass.

If you turn the PTO off. The hydraulics won't
work to raise the mower.

Two of friends have 8n's with bush hogs. Gayle
has about five acres of buffalo grass. He gets
along fine mowing once or twice a month.
My other buddy gave up on his 8n and bought a
new Deere utillity.

I don't know what kind of grass Ken has but
it's heavy and grows much faster. He had to mow
every week with the 8n. Ken told me, "If the
grass is above my ankles it's time to mow with
the 8n".

The 8n will move snow and pull a plow just
fine.
8n's are simple and you don't need a lot of
special tools. parts are available all most
anywhere and are cheaper than most other
brands, models.

I don't think you need power steering on small
tractors. I took the PS off my 62 Ford 4000.

if your ground is rough. you might want to
level it and reseed it. it would be much better
for your tractor and mower.
 
I don't think the 8N fits the OP's basic requirement list: live PTO and hydraulics. The 9N is even worse with only a 3 speed, which makes for getting into trouble even faster.

My choice for a newbie with a brush hog would be the Massey 35/135/150 (with perhaps a IH 300 or 464 in second, with Ford 3000 in third place). I admit I'm partial to the Massey or IH over the Fords, as I've worked with and on all 3 (and others), and IMHO, the Reds of that era are better than the Blues. Just got done with another JD project that left me pretty sour on them (again).

The ones I've listed above have 3 (or 4) speed trany the Massey Ford or IH 464 with a hi/low, for 6 (or eight) forward and 2 reverse; live hydraulics and PTO. They will creep going through tall grass or over uncertain ground, and will allow operator response with raise or stop tractor motion without bringing EVERYTHING to a halt. With the 8N and others of it's era, putting in the clutch stops and drops the hog, when what was probably wanted was to stop forward motion and raise the hog but keep it running to clear the 'bog'. Brakes on the old Fords were notably bad as well, especially going backwards.

There should be lots of possibilities for these models in your price range. For occasional summer use only, a diesel would work well, but would probably cost more up front. For summer and winter use as well in the northern states, gas is probably a better choice as they start a lot easier when cold.

Good luck in your search.

Well Worn
 
I grew up on an 8N and respect them for their simplicity and reliability. However, for what you want to do a tractor with "live" or "independent" PTO and live hydraulics would be much more desirable. Why make life more difficult than it has to be? I would recommend that you move up to something like a Ford 660, 661, Fordson Dexta, MF 35 or 50. Be aware that not all Dextas or 35s have live PTO.
 
Not sure if you are looking for your property to look well groomed or are just trying to keep the grass mowed down? You can probably cut it faster with a sickle bar mower than you can with a brushhog, but if it's rough you may not be able to stay on the tractor. Why is it rough, mounds, rocks, ruts?
 
i have nearly the same situation as you in terms of land and what I need out of a tractor. Bought a Ford 600 and a 5 ft. bushhog and it's worked well for me. Spent $2200 for both.
 
Thankyou everyone for posting. it really helps. i am leaning toward a 8n. just because theyre cheap, and parts are readily available in my area. i am not looking to purchase one until spring i just wanted to get some models that i can keep a look out and maybe get a good deal on one over the winter. i really like ford. and would like to get a ford. but i am looking into a few of the other ones mentioned. i set some craigslist alerts for some of the models you all mentioned so hopefully something good will show up. if i do end up purchasing a 8n i will definatly get the clutch mechanism several of you mentioned. as for what tractorguy2 i really wont be using the tractor for true bush hogging. id be more or less using it as a big heavy duty lawn mower for the most part. i would definatly be mowing it regularly. im probably going to go with a gasoline tractor for sure because everthing i own is gas. as for what c amick is asking, for the area i want to sue the tractor to mow i could care less what it looks like i just want it cut down. its more just ruff that a riding mower would be destroyed after mowing a time or two. its was a pasture and its not smooth and there are holes and roots. again thanks for all your imput. it definatly gave me something to go off of.
 
wow you really got a good deal on that. wish i could find one that cheap. the ford 600's in my area are asking more than 3000 just for the tractor.
 
i looked at that. seems like a good deal and defiantly in my price range but its way too far for me to drive. i live in kc missouri. its like an 8 hour or more drive to get it.
 

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