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hole in transmission casting...

O

oj

Member
Long story, but had the pto gear on my tractor (MF 3670), smash a bearing ball through the casting. I'm left with a hole approximately 1 inch in diameter in the casting at the bottom of the casting. I need to seal the hole (I have the piece of casting that got pushed out).

Ideas on fixing it??

My first thought was to weld it back in place, but it does need to be oil tight.

Neighbour suggested making a plate to cover the whole and drilling 6 holes and tapping them for threads the make a gasket and suck it down tight, I like this idea but the casting is only 3/8 of an inch thick and i'm not sure i drill blind holes and tap them that shallow, and i really don't want to drill 6 more holes in the base of the casting... and on top of it all the outside of the casting is not very smooth, it's rounded in two directions

JB weld or similar? Is it strong enough to hold the broken casting in place by itself? Should i JB weld it and weld it with ni-rod too??

Should I over kill and do all 3??

Any other ideas??

Thanks guys
 
Every one will have a different idea. If it were mine I would install the piece, and weld it around the edge. Use cast rod, with short beads. Use jb weld on the inside, and outside if you don't have access to the inside. Using Jb weld everything needs to be squeaky clean. A lot of people don't like JB weld. I think they may be in a hurry, or don't clean the parts. Stan
 
i could... very little clearance between pto gear and cast though (approx 1/8 inch) so it can't protrude into the tub, but it is an idea i hadn't thought of, thanks
 
I don't know why every time someone asks about joining something that is broke, and made of cast, they always say to weld it. That said, I have been brazing broken cast parts for a lot of years, and more or less learned to do it by watching a man who had done it for longer than I have been around. I've seen him braze press heads where the broken pieces were well over an inch thick. According to him the repair was stronger than the original part. That being said, I have brazed broken axel housings, only to see them broken again, at a later date, and from doing the same stupid thing, in a completely different place. In other words why not simply do the easiest thing in the world to do to make your repair, and braze the dang thing?
 
If you got the broke out piece, I would braz or weld it back in there. Had that happen on a rear end and it was brazed. No problems and hasn't ever leaked. As long as it is oil tight when you get done, it shouldn't ever leak.
 
like the man said it's amazing what brass will hold if done right,i know of an m farmall rear hub that been in use close to fifty years after it was brazed,the man that brazed it said it would hold if heat treated ,so he brazed it and had it heat treated and it hasn't broke again
 
If you can't braise it. Use JB weld. I have plugged holes in blocks 1 x 2 in. With screen wire and JB weld. Use denatured alcohol and a clean white rag to clean. No paper. Even if you weld or braise it. Smear some JB weld over it. Vic
 

jb weld has 3 rules...

must be clean
must be clean
must be clean.

otherwise will work fine.. drain it. wash it. wash it again. wash it with carb cleaner, wash with alcohol, .. if not perfectly clean repeat above.

after drying for 24 hours, apply jb weld.

let dry for 24 hours... sand and paint outside smooth.

refill and drive....
 
Use fastweld from Napa. Comes in a tube, just slice off what you think you will need and roll it in you fingers. When it begins to get warm and mixed up, apply it to you part. I have used it on a N14 oil pan and it worked great.
 
Just to add, a wire brush on a drill will clean some of it up as well before the JB Weld. Ive used it on a gas tank and it worked well.
 
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