Running Gear Questions LONG

Alright, so I have a few questions about running gear...

I posted this first picture of my running gear on here before, looking for a manufacturer, but there was a lot of mixed-emotions about it, and we all kind of decided that it must be a David Bradly, but I was fumbling around on the internet today and found this particular ad showing a Dearborn 21-2 Wagon, and to me it is IDENTICAL!! You can even see on mine where the front bolster was, and at some point was removed...

Have a look and tell me what you think! Are they the same?

Also, if it is indeed a Dearborn 21-2, who made it? Electric wheel co?

Next question would be, someone has made mine so that it isn't telescopic anymore, and I want it to be shortened up a little bit, and then I want to put a deck on it. I at that point don't care if the length can be changed, BUT as it is right now, it doesn't have a way for it to flex, so if you go over a little bump, one wheel comes off the ground. Soo, what can I do to make it flex?

I have been looking at some of the pictures online, and I think I have a solution, but I want to see what you guys think..

Say for example, the tube they welded in is 2 inch, if I were to cut in nicely in the middle, then slide a 3 or 4 foot section of the next bigger pipe over each half, then put the halfs back together with the 3 or 4 foot section of pipe, not welded, just sitting there.

Next, I found a way to cut an oval shaped hole in each end of the bigger pipe, and I cut through the smaller pipe as well, and then put a grade 12 bumper bolt and nylock nut on each end?

Then, the larger hole in each end would allow the wagon to flex as needed, and would still be plenty strong enough for a load?

Next, it says in the add that the may payload is 5000LBS, does that seem like a safe load to haul, provided that the tractor can handle it? Thanks, sorry it is a little long, but remember, I am just a kid, and kids ask a LOT of questions, or at least my mom says so... Bryce

You want it to flex and you want a deck on it. Just remember what ever kind of deck you going to put on it will have to flex also. Believe it or not that unit will flex on its own like it is with weight on it. we used to use those farm trailers for hauling gas pipe but with no deck. the longer the ridged trailer the more it will flex. yes you can fix the trailer to flex like you mentioed just remember the deck will have to be just as flexable. and if your thinking a wood deck i dont think it would last long. i think it would last longer built ridged.. good luck

I never saw a wagon that would not flex if one wheel when was higher of lower than the other. Some had bolsters to allow the running gear to flex so that the bed or platform would not have to flex as far.

Your over thinking this.

Put a flatbed on it and go.

No truck frame is made to twist and they do. So will your gear.

Gary

Most rear bolsters are made with a tubular member that can swivel on the "reach"(the tubular member from the front bolster to the rear one). The reach is long enough to extend thru the rear bolster(in a tubular opening). The rear bolster is spaced on the reach with collars around the reach held in place with a cross bolt. To shorten or lengthen the wheelbase of the gear, just slide the rear bolster forward or backward and place the collars accordingly and bolt in place. This setup allows the gear to swivel to accommodate uneven surfaces. The rack or box should only be fastened solidly to the front or rear bolster, not both. Loosely with safety chains is OK, but not bolted to both. I know this is long, but you get the idea.

Right, I understand that, but what you described is exactly what I need to put in, I thought!

These other guys are saying to just go for it as is? Anymore opinions out there? I would be a little leary of breaking something, due to age, but who knows! Bryce

(quoted from post at 06:29:36 10/08/14) Right, I understand that, but what you described is exactly what I need to put in, I thought!

These other guys are saying to just go for it as is? Anymore opinions out there? I would be a little leary of breaking something, due to age, but who knows! Bryce

Click to expand...

Take that larger pipe and cut off about 1 1/2" and weld that piece back on using straps on the side...leave a gap large enough for your bolt of choice...simple swivel point. You only need it on one end.

I agree with you that it is a Dearborn and not a David Bradley. Here is a pic of the David Bradley gear I have and it looks narrower and has square tube for the reach pipe to go into instead of round. As for the reach on your gear, I agree with the other guys. Shorten it up to where you want it for a deck (generally about 5 feet shorter than the deck will be) and run it. that reach pipe will twist. Many models of gear were made to work that way. Case gears actually used a lengthways split pipe to help allow it to twist. Good luck buddy and email if you need any help!

Forgot the pic.

What is an ideal length for a flat bed for hay? Right now, I can barely get this one turned around, and I think that it is way too long, but I hadn't thought about hang over... If I use 4x6 for the stringers, how much could those safely hang over the front and rear? Or should I use 4x8's? I will have to take a few measurements for the front, so that the bale chute and edge of the trailer line up, but I would like the running gear to be centered under the deck..

I figure, if I had a 12 foot deck, on 9 foot running gear, that would be 1 1/2 foot over hang on each end, which would be about right for the baler, I think... I still have to come up with another set of bale chute's, but that shouldn't be too bad..

I'll go out and take some measurements now, and let you know what I find...

Alright, so I went out and measured, and here is what I have come up with!

The wagon is currently 12'3" center to center of axle.

The single chute on my baler is 3 feet long

Here is what I think I could do to make a nice wagon:

If I shorten up the current running gear to 8 foot, center to center of axles. Then put a 12 foot deck on top of that with an even, 2 foot hang over on each end (or thereabouts).

The drawbar on the wagon is nearly 6 feet long, and that is too long, but, here is what I found. If I was to chop it off at about 42 inches long, then built an end for it, the bale chute on the baler wouldn't quite make it past the edge of the deck on the bale wagon, that is only if my height AND length measurements were correct!!! If I did this, I would think that the first 4-5 inches of the bale would easily be on the deck, before it over-centered on the chute and fell off, thus being very easy for who ever is staking to grab the bale. What do you guys think? Bryce

Just a little info on my 14' flat rack. I have about 19" front overhang, 30" rear overhang on about 10' wheelbase. I have 4 X 6 single stringers on it. They have a slight sag in the middle but not enough to worry about at this time.
The biggest issue I found with pulling the wagon behind the baler is getting the tractor operator NOT to turn too tight, because that can cause issues with the steering system. (Dont' ask)
Good luck with the project

It is pretty typical with hay wagons that the front axle is right up even with the front of the wagon.

This is because the tongue is too short and having a large overhang will cause the baler or tractor to strike the wagon.

Of course the alternative is a longer tongue.

Odds are your running gear is designed for a 14' wagon deck.

I agree with MoMike. His dimensions are about right on. If the gear is at 12 foot already, I am guessing that someone had a 16 foot rack on it before. I would definitely shorten it up a bit but I don't think I would go as far as 8 ft. I would take it back to 10' and build a 14 ft bed on it. I would get your bed built and then shorten your tongue to the correct length you want. I know your worried about load on it because it's only rated for 5000 lbs but it will handle it. I have a Case gear that is rated for the same amount that I haul 100 bushels of corn on all the time and it has done that for almost 70 years without failing. The Case gears I have under my 16 foot racks are only rated for 7000 lbs and we put 8 round bales averaging 1400 each on it and I have never had one fail yet!! A 14 foot rack is a good size for your operation. It will easily haul 100 bales and still be pretty maneuverable Here is a pick of the last 16 footer I built.

Alright cool! I was talking with a buddy on the phone yesterday, and he told me to take some measurements, and long story short, he had me cut a pretty sizable chunk of pipe out, and now I am going to slide a bigger pipe over it, and it is going to make it so that the running gear can be 8 foot OR 10 foot center to center on the axles.

I wanted it short, because I would really like to be able to take it out into the woods on one of our skid roads, turn it around by hand, load it up with 10 foot logs, and pull it back out.

Plus, now I can extend it to 10 foot, and if I wanted to, I could buy another, longer pipe, and make it longer again if needed!

So next question is the deck, what did you use for stringers? Also, how did you attach the back board, looks like it has supports going out backwards? I was planning on having the deck end flush with the 4x6 or 8 underneath, and then drill out, and use lag bolts to secure a back board, flush to the back of the wagon, made out of 2x6. I would love mine to look just like yours, it is REALLY nice looking!

I also like that it is lower to the ground.. Thanks so much for the help, really appreciate it! Bryce

My deck is done with 4 X 4 crossways on the stringers and 2 X 6 lengthways. As far as attaching the rear rack I ran vertical 2 X 4 long enough to go from the bottom of the stringer up, lag bolted them into the stringer and used a angle bracket bolted to the deck and the upright. I am in the process of redoing a old gear and plan on doing a 16' deck in the same way when I finish the gear.
I have seen pictures of ones done in the manner you're talking about, never done one that way my self so can't say aye or nay. You might check with neighbors to see how theirs are done any get their opinion.

Alright, sounds like a good plan. The added 4x4's clearly make it 4 inches taller, but why did you want to add those? Just more strength? What is the spacing on them?

What are the dimensions of your stringers? I was thinking about trying to get 2, 4x6 pressure treats for them for my wagon, but I could probably get 4x8's if needed?

Unfortunately, you guys are my neighbors! There are only two farms around me that actually farm, one has a little pull behind NH stack wagon that breaks down every 15 feet, and the other one has myself, their son, and a car trailer!! :

Thanks so much! Bryce

MoMike builds his with conventional stringers and cross 4x4's with the deck boards running lengthways. The advantages of his design is that the deck has very good cross support to keep the outsides of the deck from bowing down and I have heard that the boards running lengthways on the deck make them easier to stand on if your on sidehills. The disadvantage is that you deck ends up being a tad higher than the style I build. Either style will last for many years and do the job well.
I use 3 2x6's bolted together with 3/8 inch carriage bolts for the stringers with the outside one offset about 15 inches back so that it sticks out the rear of the deck for the back to mount to but so that the front of it is still sitting firmly on the front axle of the wagon. I cover the top of the 2x6's with valley flashing to keep the water out from in between them. I also wedge 2x6's in between the stringers at the front, center, and rear to keep them square and keep them from twisting or working loose and rolling in. I use 2x8's for deck boards laying crossways with about a 1.5 inch spacing. I use a 2x4 on top and bottom for the outside rail and bolt through to help keep the outside supported. I finish it off by putting a front on that tapers up to meet the outside rail and putting a tapered gusset boartd in the middle and rear to help support the outside and keep the deck from bowing down on the outsides. The gusset bracing and double outer rail are crucial to my style to get close to the cross bed strength of MoMike's style but my style will offer a lower deck height. I will post a couple more pics and if you decide to build one like mine, please email me and I will give you my phone number and would be more than happy to walk you through it. BTW, either style should be pretty simple to remove from the running gear in the off season so that you can use the gear to haul logs.

another view

front view

I build this way mostly because the ones I grew up around in Adams Co Pa were built in a similar manner, maybe because most used kickers and they felt that added more strength to the deck. My opinion only.

Well now, that looks like parade ready wagon!! I am a little tossed between which style I would like to build, but I will have all winter to think about it.. This is going to be an early spring project!

Right now, I am going to go outside and take some measurment and just see where I would like the deck to be... I am 6'5", and short things really get on my nerves at times, and I could see that the crossed 4x4 design would add just a little more height, which would make it easier for me to do things at that level, like if I was working on something on the deck.

Another thing to consider, is that we are planning on putting my dads restored Hit and Miss engines on this wagon, and then taking it to the fair, so I would want it low enough that people could easily see the engines... Thanks so much for the help guys! I will post a new topic when I figure these things out! Thanks, Bryce