Amsoil

Is Amsoil any better than any other synthetic motor oil. I use Ford Motor Co blend oil. Rush advertised it on his radio show so it should be good. Any body use it? Is it worth the extra price? Thanks for any info on this oil. Stan

OH, Lord!

Oil AND politics in one post!

This ain't gonna go well!

I tried Amsoil for a short period from all the hype I was hearing from users/sellers. The only benefit I seen from converting from Mobil to Amsoil was a higher cost and an increase in oil consumption.
I'm not saying the oil is good or bad but I assume the same as with any other brand and what the vehicle is broke in with.
I didn't see any benefits over a 12 month period that would warrant the beneficial hype the Amsoil die hards were preaching.

Just my 2cents.

(quoted from post at 07:52:15 09/29/14) OH, Lord!

Oil AND politics in one post!

This ain't gonna go well!

Click to expand...

years ago, i was helping a buddy roof a house. he always had the radio on when paul harvey did his thing..

so ole paul h. goes off about truth in advertising..somewhere in his rant i'm sure he blamed the liberals for causing all the deceit and lies rampant on the radio and tv.

harvey takes a break to throw in a pitch for john dear combines, and before he was done, you were convinced this machine would head out into the fields and cut crops without any direction from a human being..plus work with the mills for an optimum price..

so i asked my buddy..not yet a declared nnalert, but headin that direction,.."do you see the hypocrisy between what harvey says on one hand while saying something different with the other hand...he never got it... :wink:

amsoil,'mobile One , royal Purple and iirc Lubrication Engineers use class IV base-stock.
Most other so called synthetic is a glorified mineral oil.
What machine or conditions are requiring the synthetic lube ?

Neighbor was an Amsoil dealer, many years ago. My '77 Toyota was using a little oil between changes, he said that would stop (or the next quart was on him), my mileage would go up, and I'd have to set the idle speed down, because the reduced friction would make the engine run faster at idle.

I figured it was typical snake-oil sales hype, but he was right on all three counts. Sold the car in '82 because the family got too big for it, so can't testify to the long term effects.

Stan,

Advertising on a show and being good are totally unrelated.

They get PAID to say it is good.

I use Mobil One Syn. I would never buy any brand of blended (semi-Syn) motor oil. Ask yourself how much regular dino and how much syn are used in the mix? In other words what is the ratio? Any company can put any percentage of cheap syn into regular dino oil and call it a blend or semi-syn. Rip off. Tom

I would take Rush's product endorsements more seriously if he stuck to plugging products he's actually used. Like Oxycontin.

I'm sure Amsoil makes a good product. But they spend a lot of money on advertising, and I assume their "exclusive" dealers get a respectable markup. I've seen no evidence Amsoil is enough better than Mobil One to justify its price premium.

Back in the early 70s a co worker bought a new pontiac with a 350 engine. Another guy at work sold Amsoil. He talked my friend into using it in his new pontiac, after it was broken in on regular oil. About this time the pontiac guy transferred to another dept. and I didn't see him for about 3 years. When I did I asked him how the car was doing on Amsoil. He said I don't have it any more. He followed Amsoils recommendations to the letter, and it started using oil really bad. He went back to regular oil and he said it was too late. When he got rid of it the lifters clattered and it burned oil terribly. Therefore I wouldn't put it on my bicycle chain. Another friend used it in his new Harley, it developed a knock, they wouldn't warranty it because of Amsoil. Just my two cents worth.

Amsoil makes different types of oil. I'm a dealer and have been one since 1989. I am a dealer so I can get dealer prices on what I, my family and some friends use.I don't make profit off sales. For cars and trucks that are gas engines we all use AMSOIL Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil. This oil is designed for long drains. Up to 25,000 miles per year on an oil change. This includes oil filter change at 6 months or 12,500 miles, which ever comes first and top off to full. If you don't drive 13,000 miles per year then there's little savings in this oil. Most folks are afraid to run long drain periods. I was too until I had samples analyzed to prove the oil was still good.

I got a nissan frontier with 201,300+ miles on it since 2001. That's no big deal for miles. But I put those miles on with 13 oil changes. Truck runs great and expect many more miles out of it. So if you're not afraid to do extended drains it can save money over the 3,000 mile oil change that has been burned in to everyones head. And I'm not knocking that 3000 mile oil change. Use what ever you want. That's what I do. I did the math and test.

I used Amsoil diesel marine oil in the diesel engines. In the middle of oil samples on this unit right now. Last sample was at 300 hours. Came back great. TBN was still 8.5. Report said go another 100 hours. I fully expect to get 500 hours on this oil change. I did change the filter at 250. I have all the figures from the samples that I can post but only will if questioned. Don't want to bore anyone with numbers.

All oils are better today that even 15 years ago. I just try to cut down on cost, usage and be safe about it. And cut back on the money I give to arabs for oil. It's worked great so far.

Everything we do today is a sience. If you don't study what you do then you leave a lot of information out there untouched. Some can save money, time and piece of mind.

A lot has changed since the 1970's. Viton seals is just one change. I'd bet that was the problem. Back at that time synthetic oil would cause some rubber seals to turn to mush.

Ha hahahahahahahha . Hilarius first sentence. Once you are a dope addict I don't lsten to you anyhow.

No experience with Amsoil motor oil, but used their gear lube in a race car. Had to keep the seals and gaskets tip-top because that stuff could sneak out anywhere, but you could lay your hand on the rear and transmission after 50 laps compared to the paint burning off with conventional oils.

The only REAL way to know if it is better is to see what the pour point is of Amsoil vs. Mobil one and the flash point of each.

If the Amsoil has a pour point of -30F and Mobil 1 has a Pour point of -25F then the Amsoil wins.

I would really like to know the technical details of each, You never see this info published to my knowledge. But I am not looking for it on the Inet either.

I just picked 5w30 for each brand( mobil and amsoil)
Mobil 1 is Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -42
and Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230 http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-30.aspx copy and paste)

Amsoil is Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97)
-51 (-60) and Fire Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92)
248 (478)
amsoil

If Amsoil "really" is a fluid at -51C then I would say that Amsoil is the best. The flash point would come in second for me, When it is -25F outside regular petroleum oil is a gel at best, not a liquid. And most engine damage is on startup in super subzero temps.

I did not read the link you attached.

My old Uncle Bubba would only put molasses on his pancakes . He said maple syrup wasn't good for you . Sure enough anybody that has ever eaten maple syrup has died or will die.

I tried to use 2 links but couldn't get that figured out.

What sold me on synthetic oil was when I was working in textiles. We had to use white oil 22 which is a clear mineral oil in sewing machines. Started automating and sewing machines were expected to run contionus. They would at about 4,000 rpm's. Need 5,000 rpms and up. At 5,000 you could see a vapor rising from the heated oil and machines would lock up from time to time. Then rebuild.

I contacted General Enterprise in NC., told him what I needed. He contacted Amsoil and found the additives to mix with the mineral oil 22 but still kept the oil clear so it wouldn't stain cloth. He sent me a quart to test. The machine I tested was running 187f after running 4 hours. At noon I changed the oil and checked again 4 hours later. It was now running at 122f and no vapor rising.

The next week I got more oil in and changed then all over. No problems and cooler operating. Several weeks later I took all machines to 5,000 rpms and the newer wilcox & gibbs machine I raised to 6,000 rpms. No problems with machines on new oil but running so fast we had thread getting to hot going through takeups and needles. So I added needle coolers and silicon wicks for the thread to run through so it wouldn't burn in to.

Production went up and so did profits with higher rpms. Then I started running their engine oil because of what I learned from the sewing oil.

Its no better or worse than any other brand of oil of its type on the market today. I've seen hundreds of tests done on thousands of hours of hours oil tests. Are you going to be running your car at -50? Really don't need that here in south central Iowa. If you feel you need it go for it, but I wouldn't spend the extra money

Why in blue blazes would anyone base quality of oil solely on pour point?

And.. group III hydro treated oils perform nearly as good as group iv oils for half the price.

AND.. the additive package in the group iii and group iv oils that make it work and perform correctly. Amsoil and others are buying the same package of additives in most cases so they don't have to pay for the expensive testing.. As the package of additives is already tested.

Pick the correct oil for your application and change interval.
Period.

THERE are a lot of great oils out there. Most of them will test nearly the same, close enough that the differences are negligible, but the prices are NOT negligible.

Your I.P. address shows that you live on the west coast. If you lived in the midwest, you could pickup TropArtic oil for $1.99/quart at the Orscheln stores. Blackstone tests show that it's the same stuff at your Motorcraft oil (both made by ConocoPhillips), except ConocoPhillips doesn't pay money to really advertise TropArtic and FoMoCo doesn't get any royalties off of TropArtic oil.
BTW, Europe and the USA have different definitions of "synthetic" oil. Europe has real synthetic oil. The USA can call just about any oil they want "synthetic".

The Pour point and flash point only measure the ability of the oil to perform at extreme temps. Lubricity/viscosity/additives also count....But, I am not a petroleum engineer. I do know that an oil that will pour out of a cup at -50 or lower is a synthetic. I also think that to qualify to be a synthetic it has to be a made from Polyolefins or natural gas liquids. I could be wrong.

Have you ever seen oil in a test chamber at -40 degrees? I have seen Dexron transfluid (oil that is not synthetic) at -40 and it is almost a solid.


I run my truck with Mobil 1.

I read a report a while back put out by some college. According their study there is not a true synthetic made or sold in this country. All our syn. oil has at least 5 or 10 percent of plain old regular in it for lubrication. The only true 100% syn. oil made is used by NASA and NASA only.

That was a neat story.

I switched over to Valvoline a few years ago, when I had some on my fingers and couldn't grip a new, clean, 1/2-inch nut to turn it onto a new, clean, bolt. If that stuff's that slick, I can't see spending much more on anything else.

Never had that problem with Pennzoil, Quaker State (synthetic), Wolf's-head, or Rotella.

Any engine that runs in dirt, meaning farm equipment should have the oil changed per manufacturer recommendation. No oil filter is good enough to get all of that dirt out of the oil.

I've told this story before and I'm comparing only one tractor against another similar tractor so the comparison im about to make is not scientific by any means, it's just a comparison. In 1978 I bought a new IH 1086. My brother in law bought a new 1086 the same year. He ran Amsoil with its extended changes. I used mostly IH branded oil and changed every 100 hours. Both of us take meticulous care of our machinery and both tractors were used for primarily heavy field work and they had nearly identical hours.

When 10,000 hours rolled around both of these tractors were overhauled. His cam was worn beyond specs and the crankshaft needed to be ground. My camshaft was 2/3 worn and the crankshaft was still at new specs. He replaced the oil pump for the second time, I replaced the oil pump for the first time. Now my 1086 has 17000 hours, the last 1000 have been easy hours. It doesn't need oil added between changes and the oil pressure is in the 50 psi range at hot idle. I don't know what his 10 has for hours nor what it's condition is.