Staking up tomatoes

Jason S.

Well-known Member
This year I had 96 tomato plants out. It got to be a bit time consuming tying each plant up individually. I don't think that cages would be the answer either but I could be wrong. How do some of you tie up massive amounts of plants? I did try putting in T post and running rope between them and letting the tomatoes hang on them. It didn't seem to work to well for me. I'm just planning ahead for next year. Thanks for all your help.
 
I don't have 96 tomatoe plants but found the wire cages didn't do the job as they fell over when plants got bigger. I built some cages from scrap lumber. Basically 4 triangular sides with screw to hold them together. Not my design, saw another gardner who used them ans stopped to get measurements. They work well but would take a lot of labor to make 96 of them.
 

Fence panels work pretty good, but you still have to devote some time to training the vines to climb those panels. We usually grow just 4 plants. 2 plants per panel.
 
I too put out 96 tomato plants. I used the cages but
then I drove a tobacco stake down the side of the
cage. Used a cable tie to secure cage to stake.
Works pretty good and kept tomato off ground.
 
I used heavy reinforcement wire for my cages. I think they're over 40 years old. I have about 30 cages. Enough tomatoes for us and I gave away lots of them. Burpee's Big Boy plants I grew from seed. Hal
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We use the Florida weave here. Easy, fast if your
growing a lot of tomatoes. Growers supply has box
string with belt loops to run string along stakes.
Usually get hard wood stakes from saw mill down
the road cheap, few new ones every year as they
get shorter as time goes by. use 4' to 5' 1" x 1"
stakes.
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I use pieces of reinforcing mesh. It has 6 x 6 squares and comes five-foot by ten-foot. I run two rows parallel and stake every five feet or so. I ripped some cedar boards--pine would work too-- and cut a saw kerf in each end to fit over the wire. They help stabilize the framework and support the plants. I add slats as the plants grow. It takes quite a few slats, but once you have them, you're good from year to year. I usually plant 3-4 dozen plants.

Larry
 

I haven't grown tomatoes in years, but part of your problem could be an over abundance of foliage due to suckers. suckers add a lot of foliage which results in more flowers and more tomatoes which delay the growth resulting in smaller tomatoes, which are less likely to ripen before frost. we always kept them pruned back. For those not familiar they are the branches that sprout at the crotch between normal branches. they are readily pinched off when small.
 
I use loader to clean off garden, don't till
garden. I use 12 inch post hole digger to make
holes, then use chicken wire, put some chicken wire
in hole. Back fill hole with home made potting
soil, horse poo, leafs, grass, hay, sawdust, and
lime. It's like mircle grow. I don't fill hole all
the way with mulch, leave it a little below grade
to act as a rain barrel. Works great. easy to water
just the holes, not where weeds will grow.
 
I take T posts and drive them in at a 45 degree angle - two of
them opposing so they basically make an X with the cross
point of the X about a foot off the ground. The posts are driven
in just a tad farther than the brace at the bottom of them. I do
this about every 8 feet. Then I lay a cattle panel on each side
so it forms a trough of mesh fencing. Then I tie the tops of the
T posts together with baling twine so they won't spread and
collapse. Then I plant all of my plants directly under the cattle
panels. They grow up through it and are supported by the
trough. I never have to tie them up and I can reach through the
panel holes to pick.
 
To go along with the fence panel suggestion, I use what we always called/used for hog panels for various purposes in the garden. Heavy gauge wire fence panels (need bolt cutters to cut it). Have a few sizes around, some probably 20' long. Or wire corn crib panels. Could use one panel and train the plants through it every few days, and/or run string the length of it, or use a second panel in front of the plants if the holes are big enough to reach through.
 
I use the cattle panels, they are 18 ft long, i run about 30 or so
tomatoe plants. Tie em off with sissal baling twine. Also do
cukes and gourds on em.
 
I use 5' tall and 18" in diameter cages made out of concrete
wire mesh. They are at least 10 years old and still holding up.

See El Toro's post. It never occurred to me to cut the bottom
of to make built in stakes. I use a t post and wire the cage to
it.

I plant about 50 tomatoe and pepper plants and cage them all.
It takes me about 4-5 hours in the spring to get them all laid
out and planted. I have plenty of room so plant on 6' rows 6'
apart. My tomatoe plants get 6-7' tall and as big around as I
let them.
 
Similar, except I make an "A" frame teepee from posts and cattle panels and plant on both sides, panels lay back at about 30 degrees from vertical, so once started at bottom of panel (12-16" off ground), not much tieing to do.
 
Here are some tomatoes grown in cages. My wife grows a few in Earth boxes. We also canned 14 quarts. Hal
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I use ordinary tomato cages, with a T-post driven in the center to keep them from tipping over. Been working good for me, and lasts for years.
 
(quoted from post at 17:24:29 09/28/14) This year I had 96 tomato plants out. It got to be a bit time consuming tying each plant up individually. I don't think that cages would be the answer either but I could be wrong. How do some of you tie up massive amounts of plants? I did try putting in T post and running rope between them and letting the tomatoes hang on them. It didn't seem to work to well for me. I'm just planning ahead for next year. Thanks for all your help.

There has been some really good ideas and help in this. I really appreciate it. I'm actually planning on going even bigger next year on the garden. I had 96 tomato plants, 60 cucumber plants, I planted 300lbs of potatoes,and had 3/4 acre of Ambosia sweet corn this year,along with watermelons,canteloupe,green beans,pinto beans,cabbage,lettuce,peppers,sweet potatoes,pumpkins and I forget what else. I give most of the stuff away to the older members of my family that can't get out there and raise big gardens anymore. But between trying to keep up with a garden that size, canning and freezing everything that comes out of it,baling hay,and everything else you can see why I had to come up with a better (faster) way to support them. The south wind here gets very strong at times coming down the valley and I have had some tomato plants get broken...stakes and all from the wind. These were tobacco sticks I had them tied too. Once again thank you for your help.
 
When removing the bottom horizontal wire, leave
about 1/4" on each side of each spike/leg. That will make them harder to blow over once it rains and soil firms up. Hal
 
I use one "T" post with two reinforcing wire cages tied to it. Got the idea from a friend - been doing it like that for years. Saves on posts.
 

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