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So THAT'S what compressiion feels like! 8)

A

AlanA

Member
I bought a Farmall H back in March, literally drug it out of a fence row. I tuned it up, and have been using it to put around the place and move trailers, etc, but nothing that would put any kind of consistent load on it.

Grass on the back of the place got away from me due to rain and a bout of the flu, so hooked up the 6' mower, and cranked the tail wheels way down. 4" or so cut height, and back of mower 3" below the front, so it cuts all the way back. 1' or so of grass.

THAT put a load on the little H. Had to take 1/3 to 1/2 cuts, and even that pulled it down a bit. 3 hours or so of working it like that, and I have a marked increase in compression when cranking it. (no electronics on tractor at all aside from magneto)

Moral of the story: Work the snot out of them. It is what they were built to do.
 
Way back when, so far I cannot even remember who it was who said it, I was told upon buying my first tractor basically the same thing. "They like to work" is what I was told. Very little will go wrong if you do the maintenance as scheduled and work them regular. Let them sit around and all kinds of things go wrong. That is why I have always felt a little sorry for a tractor covered in modern paint and locked in a shed. They seem so much happier when they are roaring away down the field.
 
It would pull a lot easier if the front of the mower is lower than the rear, this way you only cut the grass once
 
Yup, high in front you end up sort of spanking or rubbing the grass on the trailing edge of the blade travel, cutting the leading edge side dozens of times, and cutting the middle strip twice.

Short story uses way more power.
 
You should keep the front of the cutter as low or lower that the back for safety reasons. If the rear is lower than the front debris will build up and be thrown out the front and at the tractor or the operator. Sometimes that debris will be a stone, ouch.
 
Put the WD on the swather for a 6 acre patch. That tractor hasn't worked that hard in years.
Sure missed power steering.
a169833.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 22:38:19 09/24/14) You should keep the front of the cutter as low or lower that the back for safety reasons. If the rear is lower than the front debris will build up and be thrown out the front and at the tractor or the operator. Sometimes that debris will be a stone, ouch.
Click to expand...

Yup. That is normally the way she runs. I have the Woods mower on my little JD420 set up that way, but the grass was a bit beyond what a finish mower could handle.

Just dug a '47 Farmall M out of a collapsed barn where it had been sitting since '99. Once I get her serviced and running, I will need to find some TALL grass to work her that hard.

Alan
 
Good idea to create a load for these older workhorses since so few of us plow (plough) anymore or have free access to a dyno.

A 6' rotary cutter would be a good load on an ole Farmall h even with mower adjusted perfectly. Purposely misadjusting the mower served your purpose of creating even more additional load quite well.

I have used my ole Farmall h with only a 5' rotary cutter mowing stuff that was taller then the exhaust pipe and it was indeed quite the load. Blew lots of carbon out that day. (Pretty sure my face ended up wearing some of it too -LOL).

Nice pic NEKS: I have also used my ole h on the Hesston 1120 mower conditioner (9' 3" haybine type machine) and it also gives it a very good workout but not overly severe like the bushog did in stuff that was extremely tall.
 
Almost forgot: Subsoiling in the fall will also create a good load on a 30 hp and under tractor. I subsoil my hay pasture every fall trying to better improve drainage and reverse years of animal compaction from previous ownership. My soil is like white clay concrete which puts quite the load on a small tractor. My ole Farmall h know its getting a workout subsoiling. (Farmall M plays with it though).

Another option which I have not done: Would be to temporarily create a mulching rotary cutter. Could do his by making a temporary bolt on plate for a bush hog (or rotary cutter) that restricts the mower discharge outlet. Not sure you would want to totally block the discharge outlet since bushog blades typically do swing on the stump jumper and too much restriction might be a problem depending upon conditions (would have to play with that). Anyway the restricted discharge would create an increase load in even shorter grass as well as mulch it up.
 
Almost forgot: Subsoiling in the fall will also create a good load on a 30 hp and under tractor. I subsoil my hay pasture every fall trying to better improve drainage and reverse years of animal compaction from previous ownership. My soil is like white clay concrete which puts quite the load on a small tractor. My ole Farmall h know its getting a workout subsoiling. (Farmall M plays with it though).

Another option which I have not done: Would be to temporarily create a mulching rotary cutter. Could do this by making a temporary bolt on plate for a bush hog (or rotary cutter) that restricts the mower discharge outlet. Not sure you would want to totally block the discharge outlet since bushog blades typically do swing on the stump jumper and too much restriction might be a problem depending upon conditions (would have to play with that). Anyway the restricted discharge would create an increase load in even shorter grass as well as mulch it up.
 
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