Fighting AC WD engine again

I ran the hand crank round while holding onto #1 plug hole with finger. Found comp. Found out when taking the mag cap off that tie rotor was pointing at #1, upper outside port. Got fire to all 4 plugs..
When starting, It more or less stutters, I can almost hear each firing. Its not like the steady hum of my H Farmall. IF I turn the gas back at the gas bowl, IOt runs a bit better, but the gas has to almost be all the way off. Ive had the carb to a shop twice. Feels like its still out of time to my VERY unmechanical mind. All I know, is what it SHOULD sound like, and this isn't it.

Don't want to insult you by asking too simple of a question,but have you loosened the bolts and turned the mag to adjust the timing to see if it will smooth out?

Just came in to say that I had walked the wires all around the cap again to no purpose. Then I walked the mag around 180, and got it back to where it was.

Tell me about the effects of sticking valve lifters.

Could be a sticking valve. Take the valve cover off and tap the
the top of the valve tappet assembly with a hammer to see if a valve is stuck. The WD is a good tractor, but they had a lot of cracked blocks and heads issues. Have you checked your plugs for signs of fowling?

Do a compression check. Hal

he means rotate the mag on mounting surface, NOT moving wires. when you mount the mag it is sloted to fine tune timing. And the other guy said sticking valves not lifters. If tractor has been sitting long time the valve gets rusty and when opens it sticks, as in not closing again.Do you have a service manual for this tractor?

Aint got a tester

BUT Can you tell me what an engine will do/sound like IF it has sticky valves. It starts right up, no problem.

On those mags you have to time the mag before you time it to the tractor

Ive had the mag to a mag shop twice. Once cause I thought it was bad, and it was, the second time for the guy to show me that it was something else, that the mag worked perfectly.

Can you explain what you mean, time the mag, before you can time it to the tractor?

(quoted from post at 18:56:39 09/04/14) Ive had the mag to a mag shop twice. Once cause I thought it was bad, and it was, the second time for the guy to show me that it was something else, that the mag worked perfectly.

Can you explain what you mean, time the mag, before you can time it to the tractor?

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Coarse timing. You want the rotor pointing at the #1 plug tower on the dist. cap after the mag snaps. (I don't know if you have impulse coupling on that or not)

Once that is set and the mag is on the tractor, THEN you do the fine timing to get it firing on TDC for starting.

If you shut the gas of and the motor smothes out your Float is not adjusted probally,and your flooding the motor

I think your right, but even when it smoots out, it dosent seem to run right.

You're asking about sticking valves. An engine with "a" stuck valve will run on 3 cylinders, cranking will sound like cranking with a plug out, it will run but have a steady miss. If more than one, stuck, it might run on 2 cylinders, more than that it won't run at all.

You say it starts right up. Since it does start the timing is close enough to fine tune. Get it started and turn the mag back and forth until it sounds and starts good.

Slow timing will cause loss of power, backfiring out the carb on acceleration.

Fast timing will cause the engine to kick back when cranking, erratic idle, spark knock.

Generally, advancing the spark will speed up the idle, retarding will slow the idle, unless it's way off, and I don't think you're that far off.

Back to the fuel issue...
Is there black smoke? If so it's too rich.

Fuel running out the carb throat? Float too high, trash in needle and seat, sunk float.

Is the choke linkage right? Choke fully open when pushed in.

Is the air cleaner clean? Take the hose off the carb and see if it runs better.

Set the idle screw about 1 1/2 to 2 turns off the seat.

Set the main screw about 2 to 3 turns off the seat.

See if that helps!

The carb was already set as per your settings nearly.
Took off the air cleaner pipe .Started it up. Didn't notice any difference.
Did notice oil dripping out the port hole in the air cleaner.
Im assuming oil is being blown up into the air cleaner. There is oil all over the sides of the block.
Forgot to check moving the mag until I had killed it.
It kills instantly after turning off the gas. Never had one do that before. They usually run a minute or 2.
Wouldn't start up again, even with starter spray.
Ill wait till the tractor is shaded and bring the H around again and put the belt back on it. Ital start that way.
Figure the plugs are oil soaked.

The oil is probably blowing out the crankcase breather. Could be overfilled of contaminated with gas if it's been running extremely rich.

If the oil level is good, is there a crankcase breather pipe hanging off the side of the motor? If so it may be clogged.

The oil blowing could also indicate compression leaking into the crankcase, either by stuck/broken/ burned out rings, or a head gasket blown internally. Either would cause low compression and a miss at idle.

(quoted from post at 13:22:40 09/04/14) The carb was already set as per your settings nearly.
Took off the air cleaner pipe .Started it up. Didn't notice any difference.
Did notice oil dripping out the port hole in the air cleaner.
Im assuming oil is being blown up into the air cleaner. There is oil all over the sides of the block.
Forgot to check moving the mag until I had killed it.
It kills instantly after turning off the gas. Never had one do that before. They usually run a minute or 2.
Wouldn't start up again, even with starter spray.
Ill wait till the tractor is shaded and bring the H around again and put the belt back on it. Ital start that way.
Figure the plugs are oil soaked.

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What is the "port hole" in the air cleaner?

You have looked up the firing order for a Allis. Fires a little differently than most 4 cyl.

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