I have 4440 that started overheating 220 degrees. Changed water pump, thermastates, radiator roded out, head job, hoses, belts, everything. I noticed that while I'm running pto that it starts whining as a load is applied. Just wondering if something in the hydraulics could be my issue with overheating and whining? Any help would be much appreciated.
- Thread starter Ironranch
- Start date
Check the hydraulic oil temperature at the cooler in front of the radiator. If it is real high, that plus the AC might not allow enough cool air to keep the motor cool.
I would still be suspicious of the motor. It takes very little compression in the water jacket to make them overheat. Pulling the head does nothing if your sleeves/block are leaking compression.
Does the system seem to have a lot of pressure at the radiator cap???
Without more information on the hours on the tractor, whether it has ever been overhauled and the load your applying when it overheats I am just guessing.
I would still be suspicious of the motor. It takes very little compression in the water jacket to make them overheat. Pulling the head does nothing if your sleeves/block are leaking compression.
Does the system seem to have a lot of pressure at the radiator cap???
Without more information on the hours on the tractor, whether it has ever been overhauled and the load your applying when it overheats I am just guessing.
The bottom half was checked out at the same time as head job. It doesn't use water or blow water out. I can work it using a 9ft kuhn cutter and bale hay for a week or so before adding less that a half gallon of water. The oil college was checked out st the se time. By the radiator shop and was clean. I had an issue with the hyd getting hot so I changed filter and oil witch seemed to help. The oil light doesn't come on.
How are you measuring the high temperature??? Just the dash gauge??? IF so it could easily be a bad gauge or sender.
The tractor should not be using ANY water. Let alone a half a gallon in that short of time. Most of mine never need any coolant added all summer.
Also have you personally flow checked the radiator!!! I have found one or two that shops said where good that did not flow well.
The easiest way is to remove the radiator and lay it flat. Fill it with water. stand it outright FAST. The water should flow out very fast. If it does not then the radiator is not clear enough.
Another thing to check is the fan pulley. I have seen them worn out to where the belt is hitting the bottom of the pulley rather than the sides. This allows the fan to slip without making noise. This can cause high temperatures.
Did this happen all at once or did it get worse over time???
Have you verified that the engine coolant is actually that hot? (And I'm not sure 220 is TOO hot if the tractor, AC, and hydraulics are all being worked on a HOT day.)
Would be good to take an infra-red temp gun and check engine block temp as well as rear end (hydraulic oil) temp.
As JD asked, any chance the cooling system is being pressurized by a leak that allows combustion byproducts into the cooling system?
Is it a syncro or a power shift? Each has an entirely different PTO system, and although I am not making a connection between the engine running warm and either PTO system whining, there MAY be a connection that a real EXPERT may point out.
Would be good to take an infra-red temp gun and check engine block temp as well as rear end (hydraulic oil) temp.
As JD asked, any chance the cooling system is being pressurized by a leak that allows combustion byproducts into the cooling system?
Is it a syncro or a power shift? Each has an entirely different PTO system, and although I am not making a connection between the engine running warm and either PTO system whining, there MAY be a connection that a real EXPERT may point out.
John in MD
Member
- Location
- Md
Check radiator to make sure it is clean and not chocked up with dirt and chaff or other debris. Mine had oil and dust caked in the fins to the point it only had air flowing thru about a third of it, was running around 215°. We took it out and pressure washed and steamed it, it's been running 185°-190° for the past two years.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Was radiator cap pressure tested to be be sure it's holding the correct pressure? Has inj pump timing been checked?
fixerupper
Well-known Member
Here's a suggestion for a test I learned from experience with a blown head gasket on a 4650. Get in the cab and turn the heater on high. Is there heat? If no heat, temporarily splice a section of clear hose into a heater hose, start the tractor. If you have air in the heater hose you have compression gases getting in the coolant.
The 4650 I'm talking about used 2 quarts of coolant a week. Otherwise it ran fine. The heater had no heat in the winter and That is what led to the discovery of the bad head gasket by using the clear heater hose. Let us know what you find. Jim
The 4650 I'm talking about used 2 quarts of coolant a week. Otherwise it ran fine. The heater had no heat in the winter and That is what led to the discovery of the bad head gasket by using the clear heater hose. Let us know what you find. Jim
Radiator cap was tested and replaced with new one. That one was tested. (10lbs) I flow checked radiator multiple times in this process. I have also replaced head gasket. Checked injection pump timing as well. This started back in the spring one day I got on to cut some hay and it started running hot. Took the temp gun with me and checked the head it was 215 all the way down to the front the thermastate housing was about 230 top of radiator was 217 and bottom was 187. Jd mechanics said flow was good. I did replace fan pully at the same time as new belts. I can run for an hour or so and then it starts getting hot ill stop 10 min later or less it back down to 190. Never boils over.
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