Rework Ford 861 Lights

greglinda · Jul 16, 2014

Ok followed the advice on this forum got new lights hooked up. Replace everything. Found good grounds everywhere no problem. Rewired switch as it was. Apparently the ammeter was wire to the light switch. Is this standard? when I run the tractor w/o lights on the ammeter is at zero, when I turn on the lights the needle moves to +10 and stays there until I turn off the lights. !0 amps is about right for the lights I installed headlights have a in line fuse rated 15 amps and tail lights have a inline fuse 15 amps as well. Question: am I doing any harm to the tractor, ammeter, battery or generator by running it this way? On advise from the forum I did not wire to the keyed starting switch so I have to remember to shut the lights off. Everything seems to be fine just wondering if I did this wrong?

da.bees · Jul 16, 2014

Question: am I doing any harm to the tractor, ammeter, battery or generator by running it this way?
It sounds like your amp meter is not in the charge circuit. No harm is done unless the generator is not connected so it charges battery. Without more detail,there is no way we can tell you if generator is just wired around meter or isn't connected at all.

greglinda · Jul 16, 2014

Battery is getting charged for sure. The wire from the ammeter runs directly to the switch. Wasnt sure why so I put it on the new switch it is on the pre switch neutral pole maybe it was just a convienent place to attach it? Seemed odd to me but thingd were working so of it aint broke......

Steve@Advance · Jul 16, 2014

When the engine is running, and idled up, lights off, does the amp meter show + charge?

Can you verify it is charging with a volt meter?

If yes to both questions, just move the light wire to the other side of the ampmeter.

If the system is charging, and the ampmeter shows a - charge, reverse the 2 original leads and the light lead.

It won't hurt anything to run it the way it is, just not getting the proper reading.

rvirgil_KS · Jul 16, 2014

BAT wire from alternator or generator regulator to one side of ammeter. Other side of ammeter to battery, usually connected to big battery hot wire at the starter solenoid.

Light and ignition switches draw power from alternator/generator side of the ammeter.

Turn on light switch with engine not running, and ammeter should read slightly negative (discharge)

If it reads positive just reverse the ammeter wires.

Bob · Jul 17, 2014

Typically, ammeters are installed with one terminal to the battery (by way of the starting switch or solenoid), and the charging system and ALL loads are connected to the other terminal.

Connected that (standard) way, the meter shows net gain or loss to the battery.

Yours is apparently connected with the lighting load on the same side as the battery, instead.

SparepartsTN · Jul 17, 2014

I got mine nine years ago, apparently it is wired the same as yours since you described how mine works, no problems yet.

greglinda · Jul 18, 2014

Thanks everybody I feel better knowing i got you guys out there for advice. The battery is charging fine. I did bypass the starter switch to avoid problems on that circuit. Wired it with fairly heavy wire. 12g. That might be causing resistance too. Man I love this forum it is like getting emails from my farmer grandpa up in heaven. You all are the best.

Rework Ford 861 Lights

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