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sliding shed doors..rollers?

D

DENNIS MIN

Member
All,

I call upon the collective experience and hard-earned wisdom.

I intend to put a sliding door on the gable-end of my truss raftered shed. The shed is roughly 32 feet wide, I was hoping to put a 12 foot wide, divided hung from rollers sliding door.

The reason for the sliding door is to gain headroom. I already have a overhead door, but the header keeps me from using it for the camper.

Any pointers? Further details?

Thanks in advance,

D.
 
Do you get snow and ice where you are?

I had a sliding door on my shop. I got so dammed sick and tired of fighting with ice at the bottom of the door locking it shut I tore it down and put an overhead door in.

I don't know how many times I carried buckets of hot water to the shop to pour along the bottom to melt the ice so I could get the door open. I even sawed 2" off the bottom of the door, and the ice just built up that much higher and still locked to door shut.
 
Take out the header as you probably don't need it.
Have the garage door company add a section and raise your door. How much room between the bottom of the header and your ceiling ?
 
If your overhead door is installed to the side and isn't centered in the 32" span, you could install a slider like this and you can have both a slider and overhead door:

X_____________X X==============X
> slider . . . . . . . . . >>>> ^overhead door^

Sold several pole barns that way over the years for people with campers or tall trucks, etc. Usually installed the walk door on the sidewall. We used Cannonball track and trolleys but A-OK and Plyco were other brands that were also good. You can mount a treated 2x8 across the outside of the bottom chord of your truss and mount the track brackets, track and track cover to this 2x8 track board. Rip a treated 2x6 for your jamb extensions for the slider to match the depth of the track board and for the door to snug up to.
 
sorry . . schematic didn't post like the preview did. Sliding door to the far left and overhead door on the right. Wish I had a scanner to post several pictures of the barns we did this way.
 
Showcrop, carpenter, et al,

Part of the reason to use the "other" gable is to eliminate the scuffing that the skid steer may induce into the future tarmac.

The header question is of debate, I am intending to make the slide doors on the north side, which is predominantly the windiest.

D.
 
The only track to use is the square track with the double sided rollers .
That cannon ball track is junk. Rolls hard after several years use,can't oil it to help or anything else. Sliding doors only work good on ends or in summer weather. Like was said will freeze in if not shoveled out regularly during the winter. We have several sliding doors on sheds. Always either have to have them about 6 inches above the ground or chop the ice out to open.
 
No point making such a small door divided, you have the room, just make it one door.

Paul
 
Granted, I've had a slider on my main machine shed stuck when the ground froze and heaved up and it is much easier to push the door open if the snow is cleared away from the bottom and stay rollers first. But,as far as that goes, all of my overhead door's bottom weatherstrips have frozen to the concrete at one time or another when snow or ice melted and re-froze, too. I spray silicone on them to help prevent that to some extent. Even car and trucks door will freeze closed one time or another.
Maybe lucky but never had a round track system hard to push open. Always used the oilite (sp?)trolleys with roller bearings and sized for the door weight. I used extruded aluminum vertical frame rails with metal girts (except the bottom girt was a treated 2x6) in the doors. Some folks wanted extruded rails with wood 2x6 girts - again bottom being treated. Could easily push a 15'6" single wide door open with one hand.
 
Agree with you there big time. Hard to keep the double doors from blowing out in the middle without cane bolts or a door divider on the floor (that gets run over). On sliders I called it after 16 ft on single doors. Went to split doors wider than that due to weight etc.
 
I have 10 sliding doors on my barns. 5 years old, use them every day. No problems. Make the doors light weight, use the overcenter locks that hold them tight to the wall when closed, don't let them flap in the wind when half open.

I do not have seals at the bottom for my purpose, so no ice or snow build up.

The one way doors work the best in my opinion, no center butt joint to clamp or bottom cleat to driveover.
 
Both barns have 12' single sliding doors. The small barn (on left) is 8' high, the big barn (on right) is 13' high. Both doors have brick pavers about 2" under the bottom of the doors and cement floors inside. As long as I keep the snow shoveled in front of them, I have never had a problem (10 years) opening them.
a163083.jpg
 
Your picture is worth more than a thousands of my schematic attempts with x's and dashes -LOL.
Slider and an overhead door on an endwall with the walk door on the sidewall.
 
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