Injector pump installation

Chief 83

Member
I"ve probably about worn out the Oliver guys with this tractor!
But this question shouldn"t be brand sensitive. I had my
injector pump rebuilt and hope to reinstall it tomorrow. After I
get it all hooked up and the fuel back on what do I need to do
to get the tractor started? I assume crack each injector line
and bleed air then hope it starts. Anything else? It is a Roosa
Master on an Oliver 1550.
 
Be careful with the shaft seal when installing the pump. It can be damaged easily. For bleeding the system, I opened the injector lines a little and put just a little air pressure in the tank. Don't want to go above 3-5 pounds maybe. Then when you get it started, you will likely need to still bleed each line more.
 
Provided you have the pump correctly timed. loosen the injector line nuts at the injectors, then crank the mill over with the trottle wide open till you have fuel spilling from all the connections, tighten the nuts, hit the key and it should fire up
 
Let the shaft in the pump, that way you will not cut the seal. Make sure you have your torque wrench handy. Do you have a torque table for the shaft and the screws holding the lines? You have a phone number?
 
air pressure in the fuel tank will force the fuel thru the whole injection system and push the air out--provided you have cracked the fittings at the injectors--saves a lot of spinning the engine with the starter
 
(quoted from post at 18:17:11 06/27/14) air pressure in the fuel tank will force the fuel thru the whole injection system and push the air out--provided you have cracked the fittings at the injectors--saves a lot of spinning the engine with the starter
YI. The fuel system is closed loop, air pressure will equally load supply and return lines, no fuel will move trough the system.
Only way to bleed the supply line is priming with the lift pump or by gravity feed with the bleed screws open.
High pressure side can only be bled by turning the pump shaft ie: cranking the engine.
 
I did service calls on diesels for 30 years ,
When you apply low pressure air to the tank and
open the bleeder on the pump , that thing will
shoot fuel out 2 feet if you take the screw out !
You still have to crack the highest injector line
on the pump , but that gets it 90% of the time....
 
Roosamaster/Stanadyne pump is self-priming since it has it's own fuel transfer pump built into the back of it. It will help though if you just prime it before you install it. Very easy to do. Just take an oil squirt can and fill it with a mix of half-diesel and half motor oil. Squirt it into the the fuel inlet of the pump while you turn the driveshaft by hand in the correct direction. As long as the pump is in "run" position" it will easily prime itself and start to "click" and "turn hard" once the air is out and it's read to pop fuel through an injector nozzle. I'm sure I've installed over a 100 and always have found priming by hand before installation saves a lot of battery and starter cranking. That being said - if you just bolt it on - can crank long enough - it will start. Cracking the injector lines loose will speed things up a bit.
I have no idea what putting air pressure in the fuel tank is supposed to do. The injection pump has a rotary vane fuel transfer pump built into the back and there is no direct connection between incoming fuel and the high pressure part of the pump. That vane pump makes it self bleeding and can draws fuel from 20 feet below itself if it has to.
 
I have used the air trick many times. But most of the time I had no source of air. So bled the system manually.Be very careful with the shaft seals.Easy to screw up.I always coated mine with white grease.I have the special tools to install them. But even with them you have to be careful.

I open the bleed screw on the pump body and the lines. Until fuel comes out.
 

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