Yep, She Be Shot

Allan in NE

Well-known Member
And only 60 hours on 'er. :>(

Allan

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I see a rebuilt tag.. Where did you get it? Is it on a 466 414 ih.. I think the last new one I got from Blaylock was less than 6 hundred. Quit using rebuilt.
 
Only 60 hours ? What are you feeding it? Just kidding. Going through the same thing right now. Low hour reman engine and it's using more oil than gas.

Greg
 
Hi
Just a thought here from something I saw on a Rogator a few years ago, the first day I worked for a local guy in his shop. Turbo went out on it before i started,the other shop guy put the new one on when it came into stock. I said to the company owner turbo"s fail for 2 reasons usually,1 operator error or 2 oil pressure problems.I asked the guy if anybody checked the oil pressure with a proper gauge when they ordered the replacement. He said nope they just shove them on and go back to the field.
less than 3 days later the motor seized solid at 20 mph in the field.
The Idiot light came on to say it stopped, right after the guy got hit in the chest with the steering wheel after an abrupt loss of power!.
If you haven"t already I'd check the oil pressure with a good test gauge it might be worth it, and uncover a nasty surprise waiting to happen.
Regards Robert
 
I had one rebuilt turbo last about a year; its replacement lasted 1 round of plowing. The -next- one is still on there, more than 5000 hours later. It isn't always operator error or lack of oil pressure.
 
These things are so simple i don't know why people don't rebuild them DIY,....$125 average for a kit.
 
Hi
I did say usually and that is from my experience of what I have seen. So many tractors have bad operators driving the cr@p out of them, and not following good operating practices these days it can cause failure, I'm not implying that's what this guy did.

Some equipment does'n't have a gauge on just a light. Turbo bearings are very sensitive to oil pressure at the speeds they run at. The light might not pick up the pressure drop that accurately that can cause failure, this could or couldn't be an issue here.

If you got a bad turbo you where unlucky and it could of caused your problem.
I personally don't trust these cheap china turbo's and the re builds from some places either these days I don't know what your situation was here.
I'm not saying this is what you did either, I have seen guys that should Know better go to fit a turbo without priming it with fresh oil, before fitting, then just fire up the motor with it dry and rev it full bore!. Or standing there spinning it with there hands with no oil in before fitting!. They don't deal with that very well either in some cases.
I figured I would just point out something relevant I had seen before. Because you never know with some of these problems that crop up on machines and the causes.
A guy can very easily over look something important sometimes.

Regards Robert
 
Hi Robert,

Yeah, I knew you were just trying to help.

This is the turbo that came on the tractor (5488) when I bought it last fall, so I imagine the dealer will probably just get me another.

I always let the tractor warm up and cool off and never start the tractor at high rpm nor run over 2200 in the field. Other than filling 'er with oil, is there anything else I should be aware of when operating/installing the new one?

Is there some kind of a seal where the turbo goes into the muffler or is it just metal to metal?

Allan
 
Allan, if you're referring to the "exhaust out" end of the turbo, I think they don't usually go directly into the muffler, rather a heavier walled, usually cast, elbow or something. no seal, just metal to metal. tight fit at first, then it rusts itself in place. at least that's the way a green 404 is.
 
Is there really only 60 hours on the turbo, or is the 60 hours how long you've operated the tractor since you bought it?
 
Make sure the return line hose has not collapsed internally. A restriction on the oil return side will cause a good turbo to leak oil. The oil seals in a turbo usually don't amount to anything other than some small steel rings and an oil slinger.
 
The turbo was installed brand new (rebuilt) along with a total new exhaust system just before I bought the tractor from the dealer.

They are gonna warranty it for me. Good folks.

Allan
 
Thanks Owen, I'll look at it.

The thing was setting up one heck of a "squawk" noise for the past 100 acres or so (couldn't tell where it was coming from).

I can move the shaft about 3/8" sideways. Is that normal?

Allan
 
No that's a good reason your turbo went south the main bearings must be completely gone. Spin the rotor and it should spin easy with no wobble. The squeal was most likely the fins scraping against the sides of the housing.
Walt
 
Agree with the mazemeister concerning the turbo directly into the muffler. However all the engines we produced had castings (usually some type of elbow) after the turbine exhaust outlet that a groove for an iron ring that provided some sealing. Not a perfect seal but worked better than nothing.
 
Hi
if that turbo did that in 60 hours I would be really worried it may have underlying cause/ other than junk rebuild. plus you say you got the tractor used. Maybe somebody else had this problem before and dumped it instead of spending the Cost of fixing.
I had a 5488 here for a customer for something else, I can"t remember if it has an oil gauge or not.
How many hours on the rest of the tractor just out of interest.
I"m kinda suspecting the manifold was changed due to warped sealing surfaces at the head side and probably manifold flanges. It was maybe blowing the gaskets out, maybe studs broke changing the turbo also would wreck it. Had a 466 truck motor here for a guy that was warped, had to have the side of the head machined when i inframed the motor and had the head re built.
was also wondering what the air filter elements are like, new or just blown out and put back, never seen turbo damage from plugged filters/ air starvation here, but it may be possible
As with all online diagnoses I can only guess this issue/ cause without seeing the tractor.

Regards Robert
 
There really should be no movement end to end, but maybe 1/16 to 1/8 side to side. How much oil did you lose, maybe a few quarts?
As others said might be a good idea to check your oil pressure, but I doubt it was low. Since the turbo failed(excessive end play) I would doubt the oil return is restricted, BUT still good idea to check it! You are correct to prelube the turbo at installation and your start up procedure is good also.
People sometimes don't realize that it takes a moment for oil to reach the things in the engine and that the turbo is still spinning after you shutdown, which is why you idle down first. So my guess would be some tire kicker(s) cold started it full speed ahead at the dealer , yep ,sounds great, and shut it down without idling. That would be hard on new turbo bearings in my opinion. Turbos are easy to rebuild, but if the bearings are hurt, so is the shaft. So reman is the way to go, and they are warrenting it, so good deal for you! Mark
 
The IH 50 series tractors use a some what compressible seal ring. I have even adapted them to a Deere 4630 because they are pretty sloppy.
 

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