Engine overhaul

montidale · Jun 4, 2014

I hope to finally get around to assembling a Super C Farmall next week. I'm wondering what oil I should use to lubricate the new rings and pistons during assembly. Also what oil I should I use for break in? What does every one else use? Dale

mattwillson · Jun 4, 2014

I use the same oil that'll be running in it, except cam, lifters and bearing shell assembly get a abundant amount of white assembly lube. Then prime the oil system with plugs/ injectors and valve cover removed. Once you confirm good oil pressure and oil at rocker arms etc fire it up.

CenTex Farmall · Jun 5, 2014

I like to use a heavy oil, like a straight 50wt racing oil. The high viscosity helps it stay put and buy me time while I get the rest of motor together, in something and hooked up for starting. I use a little square plastic tub and dip the end of the piston with the rings installed or pour the oil around the ring area. I then rotate the rings around and the grooves get thoroughly oiled.

For break in I usually use a 15-40. Anything with higher level of anti-wear additives will be fine. Run about a half hour and then change it. No matter how carefully you clean, there's always bits of trash inside a new engine.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 5, 2014

If you are using chrome rings, better use a break-in oil unless the intention is to get the engine loaded after a few minutes idling. A good 15W40 oil with the full complement of antiwear additives can allow the cylinders/rings to glaze resulting in high oil consumption. Just don't let the rebuilt engine idle very long before "putting her to work".

gene bender · Jun 5, 2014

How do you prime the C engine when the oil pump is driven from the cam. After the oil pump is installed you cannot turn it over.

John M · Jun 5, 2014

I just soak the assembly(making sure the wristpin is covered), usually overnight, in the same oil Im running in the engine.

ASEguy · Jun 5, 2014

I pressurized oil from a hand pump tank then plumbed it into a pressure line on a Cat engine I did. They had a tag on the reman unit that said "Warranty Void if not prelubed".

johnlobb · Jun 5, 2014

Permatex I think has a red sticky assembly lube.

El Toro · Jun 5, 2014

Get a new sash brush and coat the cylinder walls, pistons and all the bearing surfaces with a good grade of engine oil when assembling the engine. Use the oil you plan on using in your engine. Hal

buickanddeere · Jun 5, 2014

Depends. Is it a re-ring job with what kind of rings and bore finish? Are all the cam followers been randomly replaced back into the bores? Or are they in their factory locations? Was the cam and followers re-ground? Is this a putting around and parade tractor , a puller or a worker? How many hundred or thousands of hours do you plan on using the tractor ?

dr sportster · Jun 5, 2014

I beleive you should not get "assembly lube " on the rings because it is a synthetic oil and may cause seating problems. Use the same oil the motor takes.

Alan K · Jun 5, 2014

On engines I have done I used lubriplate and a good grade of oil on the rings and cylinder walls. In Vo-tech we used lubriplate and sometimes used a mixture of engine oil and stp. All the engines Ive done after Vo-tech I left the coil wire off on spark ignition, and left the fuel stop to off position on diesels, cranked them over until I had oil pressure on the gauge, then started them.

Roy Suomi · Jun 5, 2014

I use motor oil to lube piston/rod assemblies and cam lube on bearings and oil pump and of course camshafts..

jeffcat · Jun 5, 2014

One little thing I would add. Up on the farm on engine build ups STP and some motor oil slatherd on every thing. The one ace in the hole is a little tank thing. It was a pressure tank with a screw out plug and a pressure gauge. you filled this tank with motor oil and pressurized it to 40lbs pressure. Screw it into where the pressure sender or your oil gauge goes and open the valve. It oiled the whole engine and showed you if ya goofed up some where. If the gauge slowly dropped you were OK. Quick drop means big boo boo time.Jeffcat

CenTex Farmall · Jun 5, 2014

This is a great idea for engines (Such as the OP's C) where there's no way to externally drive the oil pump.

montidale · Jun 5, 2014

I use the tractor with a woods belly mower. It was leaking coolant around the sleeves. I was just going to replace the O-rings, but once I looked at the sleeves I decided to put in new sleeves and pistons. It's an in frame overhaul. So basically it's new mains and rod bearings and new sleeves.

El Toro · Jun 5, 2014

We had one of those at work for pumping oil into V12 Tank engines after being rebuilt. We ran them
on a stationary dynamometer for 240 hours. We ran 8 Continental engines for 1000 hours. All were pressurized with oil before startup. Then we tore them down and measured them for wear. They were all new engines and we tore each engine down and measured every part. Hal

Anonymous-0 · Jun 5, 2014

Break in with 30 wt NON DETERGENT then change to oil of your choice!!!!!!!!!!!!

buickanddeere · Jun 5, 2014

(quoted from post at 13:23:30 06/05/14) Break in with 30 wt NON DETERGENT then change to oil of your choice!!!!!!!!!!!!

Better hope the valve spring pressure is very low. There isn't much of an anti wear additive in low end non detergent oil.

Alan K · Jun 5, 2014

We were told in Vo-Tech to use a light non detergent oil for break-in, 10w or 20w.

Gambles · Jun 5, 2014

To anyone here recommending a non-detergent oil for breaking in an engine, I have one little question that I would like answered: Please name ONE modern day engine manufacturer who recommends a non-detergent oil for their MODERN engine break in. And when you do, please post your sources.
BTW, I went to Vo-Tech for mechanics also.

Engine overhaul

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