1958 FORD WORK MASTER

I HAVE A 1958 FORD WORK MASTER WILL NOT START , THIS WINTER DID COMPLETE TUNE UP ON IT WAS USING IT AND IT DIED STARTED IT BACK UP SO I TOOK IT TO SHED AND PARKED IT THE NEXT DAY WENT OUT TO RUN IT AND IT WOULD NOT START. DRAINED ALL FUEL PUT A NEW SHUT OFF SWITCH ON IT AND NEW CARBURETOR ON IT STARTED UP BUT THEN IT DIED ON ME AGAIN CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE

Same old question. Do you have a good hot blue spark? If you open the carb. bowl drain can you get a good flow of gas for over a minute? Compression. gas. and spark are need to make an engine run. Since you ran it recently, I would rule out compression at first, look at it later if the other fixes don't work. Do some investigation first, then let us know what you find.

And please release your CAPS LOCK.

Really need more info, the symptoms, what's been checked...

A couple of things to check:

Starting, running, and dieing typically are symptoms of lack of fuel flow to the carb. There should be a drain plug in the bottom of the carb bowl. With the engine off, and the fuel valve on, remove the plug and see what you get. Catch the first fuel in a glass container and check for water and debris contamination. You should get a sustained flow of fuel. It should maintain a steady stream. If the flow slows to a stop or a drip, there is a restriction in the tank, line, the carb inlet fitting, or the needle and seat. Even though some of these components may have been replaced, it is possible they could have quickly clogged if the tank is contaminated with loose rust.

The other thing to check is the ignition system. Since this is an intermittent problem, the best time to diagnose the problem is when the problem exists. Be ready to check for spark at the plugs when the problem occurs. Common causes of intermittent spark loss are bad wiring connections between the battery, ignition switch, and coil. Also points out of adjustment, defective points, defective condenser, loose condenser, loose connection or improperly connected points can cause loss of spark. Another common problem is worn distributor bushings. Proper point gap is critical, if the bushings are loose, the points cannot be set.

This is a place to start, let us know what you find.

You have to find "what isn't wrong" one thing at a time until you narrow it down. Stated another way,if you have a hot blue spark from a plug wire,there's no need looking at points,condenser or coil. With that out of the way,jumper wire from battery to coil. If that doesn't stop it dieing,you know wireing,connections and ignition switch aren't at fault. Move to fuel and do the same.