Counter Weight

BUZZEL · May 19, 2014

I need some help. I am going to build a counter weight for my
tractor it is a 32 HP , the loader is suppose to lift 1000 to 1200lbs
it has a cat. 1 3-point hitch. I am going to build a cement block
I just don't know how big it should be. Can anyone help?
Buzzel

Ultradog MN · May 19, 2014

I just looked up the weight of concrete last night as I'm thinking of filling a 6' culvert with concrete to make sort of a poor man's cultipacker.
Concrete weighs 150 lbs/cubic foot.
To compute the volume of a container multiply Pi X Radius squared X height.

Puffie40 · May 19, 2014

Around my area one idea of a counterweight
is to mount a 55 gallon drum to the three-
point, then fill it with cement. You can
customize the weight by adjusting the
height and getting the volume using the
cylinder formula.

WESnIL · May 19, 2014

I did the same thing a few years back using a plastic 30 gallon drum as my frame. If you do the same make sure to mount the bottom links toward the front of the barrel (I used a 3-point drawbar and ran it through the barrel.) and put the hole for the top link directly vertical to those for the lower links. When using it for the first time carefully check the clearance for the top link as it passes the edge of the barrel. Please do not ask how I almost know. It is plenty heavy for normal counter weight when using the loader, etc. I did the same using a 55 gallon barrel for the big tractor (86 HP) and it is equally useful. On that one I fabricated a hitch out the back of the barrel too. That way one can pull a wagon, etc. in a pinch without removing the barrel.

Geo-TH,In · May 19, 2014

Here is a counter weight I made for neighbor. Hope
this works. If not you can find it in archives.
George
ballast weight

Geo-TH,In · May 19, 2014

So that means the 55 gallon drum of concrete I made for my neighbor will weigh in at 1100#.

Ultradog MN · May 19, 2014

Sounds about right.
1100 lbs does seem like a lot on a 32 hp tractor though.

Anonymous-0 · May 19, 2014

use a 30 gallon barrel, then...

OliverGuy · May 19, 2014

Cut the 55 to whatever weight you want that's we did. Leave it a little taller than what you will fill it for chain, etc. storage. Put a square tube out the back for a receiver tube to put a drawbar in for moving wagons or trailers, or at least run a tongue out before concrete

David G · May 19, 2014

Did you think about putting cast iron on the wheels?

Dan T in MO · May 19, 2014

The one that came with my TO-30 loader tractor was made from a 55 gallon burn barrel filled halfway up with concrete and the 3pt pins put in place. I haven't weighed it, but a couple of times, I've had to drop the ballast weight due to loose brakes and it shakes the whole tractor.

Geo-TH,In · May 19, 2014

There are 3 factors to consider. Weight is only
one thing, second is how far behid the rear wheels
are you putting the weight and last how much can
your 3 pt can lift. If you look at my second pic,
I counter balance 1100+ pounds with only 450#
extended about 3 times the distance behind the
rear wheels as the ballast is in front of front
wheels.

If you are not sure what you can lift, make it out
of a 55 gallon drum and fill it with dirt, gravel,
or water just to see what you can lift.

Russ from MN · May 19, 2014

I used a plastic barrel bottom half, put the 3-point
attachment points inside. Get the top link high
enough and forward, so the top link doesn"t hit the
barrel. Put a receiver hitch on the back, you will
use it. I added a lot of scrap iron to the concrete
to make it heavier, iron weighs 500 lb per cu. ft.,
concrete only 150. I think mine weighs about 600
lbs.

Ron Muhlenkamp · May 19, 2014

If you use old tires as molds, you can make wts. That are
each. 200-300lbs. And can be easily stacked (and removed)
on the lift arms and horizontal drawbar. A hollow pipe in the
middle allows a light chain to hold the stack in place. you can
then use as many as needed. The size of the tire and the
thickness of concrete will determine the wt. of each.

NNP · May 20, 2014

I use one of those metal garbage cans(they resist rust) on my 30hp import.
On a bigger older (better steel) tractor I use one of the bigger
rubbermaid type garbage cans as a mold.

couple ideas, some said,

keep the lift pins and toplink mount forward in the mold so you don't bend the toplink. And this also moves the weight further back=good.

casting in a steel tube (old piece of a house jackstand is the right size) allows you to slip a drawbar thru., and pull it out for other uses if needed.

casting in a ball or pin hitch is handy

casting in a 4" PVC tube vertically in the concrete is a handy place to carry chains, shovels, etc.

3-point forks are the best of both worlds. make your counterweight on a pallet, need weight, pick it up with the forks, don't need it, drop it off......all without leaving the seat

(old slip-scoops work well too...grab some dirt, then dump it when done))

BUZZEL · May 21, 2014

Thanks everyone for good suggestions I was trying to get away
from the barrel type, I have a barrel on my old Ford 801 and I tipped it over once when I was putting it on the ford, it is top
heavy.I think I'll make a cement block with a hitch on the back
and some storage on top.
Buzzel

Counter Weight

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Ultradog MN

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