Troy Built tiller Problems

I have a troybuilt horse tiller, it starts great, runs great but after it warms up, about 15-20 minutes it cuts out. Let it sit and cool and itll run fine then repeat. Any ideas as to what it needs? It is a 1974 and has a Kohler motor. Need it fixed up for the garden to finish going in.
 
2 probable possibilities come to mind.

The gas cap not venting properly.
A valve sticking open.

Does it have spark after dying?
Does it seem to have good compression after dying?

And as a final thought I have seen spark plugs cause this problem.
 
Just go through the list of usual suspects...
Spark, fuel, compression.

First, just to say you did it, put in a new plug. They can do strange things, lead you down the trail of "Wish I'd done that $100 ago!"

Check out the fuel system. Clean fuel, no water, clean filter, vented cap, fuel getting to the carb, fuel line well away from exhaust, carb bowl clean, float level correct, float free to move.

How does the spark look? Break the electrode off the old plug and use it as a tester. The spark should be able to jump from the center to the base, base grounded, when pulling the starter. Be ready to quickly test the spark as soon as the problem happens. Could be the coil heating up and failing. Also disconnect the kill wire, just for test purposes, it could be intermittently shorting to ground.

When the engine quits, pull the starter slowly feeling for compression. Rare, but could have a sticking valve.
 
Kohler K 161 7 HP ? Aside from vented cap, valve, obviously ignition and fuel, if the carb is performing, I'd check spark when it does that. I have one of these with the K161, never experienced that yet, motor runs very nice and is a one pull start, even after sitting a year, pull it over slowly to prime, then one good pull, choke on, fires every time. One thing is for sure, these are easy to work on, post back if you can once resolved.
 
Sounds like the coil is getting weak, and if its old enough to still have points, they may be set too close.
 
When the engine quits running check for fire to your sparkplug. If it has fire install a new plug.
If it still quits remove the gas line at the carb to see if there's a full stream of gas from the tank. If there's just a trickle of gas your fuel tank needs cleaning. Could be gummed up old gas. If its in your tank your carburetor probably needs a good cleaning. You may need a new condenser if there's no fire. I would replace it before replacing the armature.. Hal
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(quoted from post at 07:55:42 05/02/14) I have a troybuilt horse tiller, it starts great, runs great but after it warms up, about 15-20 minutes it cuts out. Let it sit and cool and itll run fine then repeat. Any ideas as to what it needs? It is a 1974 and has a Kohler motor. Need it fixed up for the garden to finish going in.

The gasket in between the carburetor and intake tube, or the tube and the engine, is going away. My Troy-Bilt with a Briggs did the same thing. Made a couple of new gaskets, made sure all the screws were good and tight, and it ran like a new one.

Sadly, I only got one season out of it after that, and the whole tiller bit the dust.
 
Good list of stuff. Another thing I have done with small engines is change everything over to Hi-Test gas and add Startron to the gas .It can solve so many problems! Second with OHV and other engine types I have been using synthetic blend 5-20wt oil. The engines stay SPOTLESS inside and start very easy in winter.
I had points and condenser problems last year with my Gravely Commmercial 10. Check spark.
 
Over the years I've wasted hours looking for something complicated to fix when all I needed was a spark plug or the gas cap vent was plugged. Start there
 
I loved the old Kohler but when it threw a rod I ordered a Predator engine from Harbor Freight. Not much over $100 delivered. Bolted right up, no more problems.
 
My old troy built gave me fits a few years back. After this that and the other thing it turned out to be the fuel pump, Its ran great ever since I replaced it.
 
I put a new engine on my tiller, from about 1974. Best thing I did to it. It is a little heavier and has 2 more HP, so I can idle down and it cuts nice and strong.
 
I was given a T-B Horse that had the rod through the side of the B&S block. I couldn"t find a replacement flathead engine for it, so I bought a $100 OHV engine from Harbor Freight. Aside from needing some metric fasteners to make it work, the new engine bolted right on, and even the tube "bumper" that goes around the engine fit without modification. The new engine has plenty of power and has run the Troy-Bilt successfully for about 4 years.

I doubt very seriously that I could find ANY other engine that would have worked for $100. Especially a new engine.

Easy and relatively cheap! My kind of repair.
 

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