Welding on a JD A gas tank

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Brad in WI

Member

• Apr 29, 2014

• #1

I am working on a JD A for a guy and the filler neck on the fuel tank is loose (separate) from the tank. I have to come up with a way to reattach the filler neck to the tank without burning myself up in a ball of fire. I do plan on removing the tank from the chassis because I have to rinse the sand and such from it. I thought of either filling the tank with water and MIG welding it or possibly using JB WELD or a fuel resistant epoxy to make a sand proof seal. What would be my best solution or does anyone else have any other ideas for me? Thank you

 

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dr sportster

Well-known Member

• Apr 29, 2014

• #1

Maybe someone on here can tell you the original way the factory attached the piece. I have seen the fuel petcock thread fitting on an Indian motorcycle soldered in with lead in which case I thought it was stupid to braze it back in like my friend did.
If lead was good enough for Hendee leave it original in the repair.

 

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LarrySTN

Member

• Apr 29, 2014

• #1

I use solder on gas tanks. I've seen epoxy's tried. Solder works very well.

 

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kcred

Member

• Apr 29, 2014

• #1

Put dry Ice in the tank before you start welding or Brazing or what ever you try to fix that tank.
The dry ice will take the place of oxygen .

 

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NCWayne

Well-known Member

• Apr 29, 2014

• #1

I second the dry ice idea. I've done it quite a few times.... and I'm still here.....

 

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VicS

Well-known Member

Location

SE Il.

• Apr 29, 2014

• #1

Don't use water. Tinny gas pockets can form along
the top. Use air. The outlet on a vacuum cleaner is
just right. Blow air into it for a hour or so. Let
your nose be your guide. If you decide to weld it.
Cut your air down quite a bit. like to a 5/16 hose
while you are welding. Vic

 

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PJH

Well-known Member

• Apr 29, 2014

• #1

I soldered the filler neck onto my 630 JD fuel tank, about 35 years ago. It"s held good all this time. It had been in a fire, and the neck had been re-attached with a botched repair. I honestly can"t remember how I prepped the tank, but I can tell you to be careful doing yours. That job is not for the foolish or the faint of heart.

 

T

the flying belgian

Member

• Apr 29, 2014

• #1

I have fixed a lot of gas tanks. Purge it with argon
from your mig welder.

 

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DeltaRed

Well-known Member

• Apr 29, 2014

• #1

I washed one out at a carwash.The hot water/soap got
it clean.Spent about 5 bucks,got it good and hot.You can 'pipe' car exaust into it.

 

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redforlife

Well-known Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

Solder is probly the best thing to do as far as the tank goes. As far as the safe way to go about it, that is kinda your call. Suggestions have been made down below. I just know exstreme caution should be used to avoid a fire or explosion.

 

O

ohiojim

Well-known Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

yea,..the dry ice is the way to go....

 

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Stephen Newell

Well-known Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

I've welded quite a few gas tanks. I just drain the gas out and let it sit open for three or four days and wait for the fumes to vacate. Sometimes if there is too much fumes I will run some compressed air into it at about 2 psi for a couple of hours before welding. Occasionally the gas will ignite but since the filler cap is off it makes a little noise and shoots a small flame out the neck. Then it doesn't present a problem anymore. The first couple of times I welded a gas tank I put a flaming rag on the end of a 10' stick and ran it past the filler neck to see if it would blow. I soon found out that wasn't necessary.

I've also tried to fill small holes with JB Weld. It won't work unless you use a fuel tank liner like Red-Kote. The gas they make today will eat up JB Weld.

 

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mkirsch

Well-known Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

Yeah but where do you get dry ice?

The only places around here that sell it, only sell it in large quantities, charge an arm and a leg for it, and are only open at the most inconvenient hours.

For what the dry ice would cost it would be cheaper to take the tank to a radiator shop where they have the equipment to boil it out and reattach the neck properly.

 

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PJH

Well-known Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

"I put a flaming rag on the end of a 10' stick"

Stick is too short Steven, ha!

 

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Mike M

Well-known Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

Wash them with hot soapy water and then solder them.

Only one I ever had poof on me was one I ran
exhaust into so DO NOT DO THAT ! I'm betting the
exhaust was rich and I was adding gas fumes !

 

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rick deere

Well-known Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

there are some things you will only do once?

 

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Bob

Well-known Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

Be SAFE. Steam it out, then fill it with inert gas and silver solder it.

It was soldered before and things will get ugly if you try to weld on top of the old solder!
Stay Brite

 

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mj

Well-known Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

I heat a big old soldering copper up with a torch and then solder the leak - if you are getting too much cooling heat up some flat scraps and place them close to the repair

 

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Bryce

Member

• Apr 30, 2014

• #1

ummm you realize exhuast is c o not co2.co has a lel of 15% to 75%. Highly flammable.