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A little more help on a loader installation

T

tedregentin

Member
I am in the process of installing a loader off a 3020 to a 445 Moline. People on this forum have been very generous with help. I have the loader installed and plumbed. It works, but there is a problem with the control valve assembly. The control valve handle doesn't seem to move back and forth properly. I have never worked on hydraulics, so I have questions. Are those control valves repairable, can one get parts? I looked at Northern Tool and they show control valves, but I don't know which one would be the right one. There are different gallons per minutes, open center, etc. There is also single joy stick control valves. Any suggestions as to the best way go would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Ted
 
First you need to know the specs of the tractor's hydraulic system. Once you know the working pressure, GPM, and type of system(OC vs CC), then take this to surpluscenter. com, and start looking for the valve you need...
 
A 3020 is closed center. Unless you have a self leveling bucket,and it doesn't sound like you do,I wouldn't recommend a joystick.
 
Rrlund found your problem. The 3020 is a closed center hydraulic system. The minnie, if set up like my minnie, is an open center system. Many spool valves can be converted from one to the other. Can you post a picture of your spool valve?
 
Thanks for the replies. I probably didn't give enough information. There is no tag or any identification on the loader. It is not a JD. I don't know anything about the difference between open center or closed center, but this loader uses its own reservoir and pump that runs off the pto. The bucket pivots normally, so I know it is just a problem with the valve that operates the up and down portion of the loader. Ted
 
With a PTO pump,it's most likely open center then. There's not much too those if it's just an ordinary spool valve. That spool just has a few O-rings on it and notches in it. When you move it in and out,notches in it move over different holes in the block. I think before I'd spend the money for a new one,I'd unhook the lever and tap the spool in. There's most likely a metal cover or rubber cap on the other end where you can tap it back. I'd do that with the engine shut off and just see if you can work it loose. If you have to take it apart,there should only be a snap ring holding the whole spool in there.
If you're already considering a new one,you don't have anything to loose.
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a154617.jpg
 
You said the handle doesn't move back and forth properly. If it moves, but seems to go too far one way, you could have a fourth position where you (usually) pushed it too far in. That would be a float position. If that is what you are experiencing, the raise and lower spring back to neutral, but pushing farther in goes to a float position which has a detent to hold it there until you move it back.
 
Another thought occurred after I posted. If you need to buy new valves, you may want to consider getting closed center so you can just use the tractor hydraulics. Others here will know much more than me how and where to tie in on the tractor. This leaves your PTO available for other uses.
 
I have a control torn apart right now that had that problem. There is a song held to the back of the spool with a screw. That screw came out, so when you pushed the handle (pulling the spool out) the spring wasn't pulling the spool back to neutral.

We don't need it since dad replaced it years ago because of this problem. I took it apart as a curiosity and haven't gotten it back together yet. I need to get some new o-rings for it and make a new brass gasket that goes between the halves.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
That thought crossed my mind too after a thought about it. The tractor pump on those has plenty of capacity on those.
 
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