Cleaning crank journals, wet or dry?

I've got a motor that spun a rod bearing. The journal dosent look damaged, just a lot of bearing material that has to be taken off. I ran some emery cloth over it and I think with enough work it will clean up. Should I use the emery cloth dry or keep it wet with oil while I do it? Taking the crank out is not a option right now and I'm pretty sure I can tackle it in frame. Any opinions? I will mic the journal when I'm done to make sure it's still true and plastiguage the new bearings. I priced some croc cloth(sp?) and it was 25 yards for $114 at the local parts store so I think I will keep with the emery cloth.
 
I know what you mean about doing things the correct way is not always an option. I would plug the oil passage in the journal, use a fine emery cloth and run that over the edge of a file. Then you will end up with nearly crocus cloth. But, if it does not mike up darn good, forget it.
 
Thanks for the reply pete, if it dosent mic or plastiguage good it will defiantly come out. I'm hoping to spend a few hours on it and see how it turns out first. I'm hoping to make it right in frame because if I take the crank out I might as well do a full rebuild which I would like to avoid right now.
 
400 wet / dry sand paper, cut it to the width of the journal dip it in mineral spirits wrap it around the journal. remove one of your leather boot laces (has to be leather) wrap that around the sand paper three times leaving an equal amount of lace on each side and "saw back and forth" it will clean up pretty quick and keep even pressure all the way around the journal. HTH.
Greg.
 
Not sure of the bearing material but I have cleaned out siezed piston material (alum.) out of cylinders with muriatic acid. It disolves it away without altering the base material at all. You wouldn't have to worry about getting it out of round that way. I'm pretty sure it would work on bearing material but maybe someone will post me wrong.
 
You got a local machine shop close, they might sell you 4 feet of crocus cloth cheap.
 
All things being equal, the biggest problems that you face will be:
1) keeping the journal true and round. Be sure when you plastigage, you check several points around the journal to be sure it is sufficiently round.
2) GRIT!!! Be sure to plug the oil hole in the crank. Stray grit will not only damage the replacement bearing, but will also damage the other bearings if it gets around. IMMACULATE CLEANING is the LAW!!! Be sure to use an abrasive that does not shed excessive grit.
3) Finish. Be sure to end up with a good finish on the journal. Using a coarse abrasive to remove the old bearing material could leave a finish on the journal that is too rough. Be sure to polish with a very fine grit like a 1200 or so.
4) Find out the reason that the bearing spun. Under normal operating conditions, rod bearings simply do not spin for no reason. You may want to poke out the oil feed hole back to the main bearing that feeds that rod to make sure it is open.
5) BTW, a wet abrasive will cut better and more evenly than dry and have less of a tendency to "dig in" to the crank.

Just a few thoughts from an old retired engine/transmission rebuilder
 

Crocus Cloth is what you need to use:

Tear a strip the width of the journal, use a light oil on the journal and crocus cloth and WRAP a length of Cotton Clothesline evenly around the journal, wrapping as many turns as will evenly lay on the journal.. Now, Spin the Crocus Cloth with the two free ends of the Clothesline..
Occasionally re-oil, check and spin some more..
Crocus Cloth will Polish like you will not believe and will take that Aluminum and Brass off very well..
It will NOT remove enough Steel to measure, but will DO THE JOB..(stay away from that Emory cloth and sand paper!)..

Ron..
 
Muratic acid will take off the bearing material and not damage the shaft IF you use sparingly and only for a short time period or the shaft can sustain damage.
 

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