Enlarging the parking lot.

Dave Sherburne NY

Well-known Member
I'm starting a 60' X 60' addition to our church parking lot probably this week. We dug a test hole with a small excavator, hoping to find gravel about a foot down, it wasn't there. We plan to push off all the topsoil and use it to fill other holes around the church. under the topsoil is what I call hardpan, kinda like clay. How much of that should we take out? We are planning on a compacted layer of Pit run gravel HOW THICK? then topped with Item4 HOW THICK? Guy at the church owns all the equipment and a gravel bed. Church buys the fuel so we can do whatever it takes to get a parking lot that will last.
 
I would put a bed of 2" rock then pack in with 3/4". Unless you need the dirt, just build it up on top, the higher the better for drainage.
 
That's hard to say, what class of soil it is, around here there's clay and gravel mix, and shale. If you were putting up a building with spread footings, soil classification would have to be figured out to meet the loading, but with a parking lot, you would think no more than a foot, or just the topsoil to the undisturbed. Auto traffic and maybe an occasional truck ? If its unstable you could take more out, use fabric, but no need to waste money if not needed. I would strip the top, see what it does, hit it with the vibratory roller, see if it pumps water or is unstable. If not, I've done a lot of jobs without fabric in this area, the soil is plenty stable enough, its just the top soil that won't hold up, so it has to be removed. I'll show some photos of one small job I did, was on fill, the house was built in a low area, and I did hit water and had one area pumping up, it was a soft area for sure, I could not even load out the spoil with the front bucket, I had to stockpile it, and load with the hoe, onto a tri-axle. Seemingly nasty soil, deep, water, can't take it all out, so I took a 12"-18" out, then brought in gravel, then Item #4, rolled each lift and when I found that one soft spot, I dug it out, hit water, so I had to put some broken concrete in there, just like rubble, and it stabilized easily, no pumping. This as I recall was some really soft material, I could have made a real mess on this job if I did not know what I was doing, I did put a drain pipe in that daylights at a small stream. I even found an old cut off stump, roots in place still, left it, was hard, almost tipped me over when the one wheel hit it and the other sank. I had to plank the driveway to get the trucks in to load them out, the material I loaded out settled flat it was so wet. I stockpiled good material on the street and used the bucket to haul all the material in, lot of material went in here, I may have taken more out, can't recall, might have sent about 3 trucks out with wet spoil. One of the more undesirable soil/fill areas I've worked on, its been there 9 years now, they paved over it with binder then a wear course, no settling at all. I used no fabric either. Soft area was in front of that little garage, this small roller did a decent job of packing it in though, was not too surprised it held up well, but you never know, just did what would do on any jobsite when I was an operator, having lots of experience in soft, wet, and muddy sites, hate working in those conditions, but there are times you must and you do need to know what you are doing to some degree LOL ! I really enjoyed this kind of work, sure as heck wish I could do it for a living, given I've had no luck with finding work suited to my background. The smaller jobs that pay on time were always good, they don't take weeks or get too complicated. I used to have a great arrangement with a local rental house, most if not all surface work, lower risk, customer pays via credit card, machine is delivered, I do the rest, charge labor and materials, no heavy mark up, just don't barter my rate to run the machine, the rest was a savings.

Enough about me, LOL, sounds like you may not need to remove too much, these jobs are fun because its just moving material in and out, packing and grading etc.
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You don't say how deep the top soil is? You said you dug down 12 inches and no gravel, well I would dig it down 12 inches and put 10 inches of pit run compacted and then four inches of regular gravel on top. If you are going to blacktop it then go two inches deeper and use the same amount of base and gravel, and then put your black top on and bank the edge of the blacktop up with dirt or gravel so the water runs away.

Bob
 
I should have added, that if your subsoil is similar to here or turns out to be stable, one good layer of gravel, then wear course, screened gravel, item #4, crowned and drained properly, compacted well, should be no problem.

The photo is my driveway and the nice gravel going in. What was there before was a little soft, but when I took it down a foot, some areas less, it was hard, I did find a shale outcrop, just the beginning of it, I'm on a hill, so its drained, soil percolates well to, so in this case it was the material on top. I cleared it out, filled along the perimeter, then had gravel brought in, run of bank, screened, and I reused the item #4 I had in place that was good, that I could scrape up with out mixing it in. Only thing that happened here after 10 years is water eroded on side further up where it narrows, the rest has stayed put, and is hard as soon as the frost leaves, water drains right out of the gravel, no fabric needed at all, just have to repair and redirect some water, which comes off the towns lane at the end. I posted this photo a few days back, but the subsoil is clay/gravel and or some shale in places. It was hard digging with a dozer.
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Around here with soil that turns to mud in the winter we put down 4to 8 in. Of 3in. Minus then cover it well with 3/4 minus this make a good bed and a smooth surface to walk on. The type of rock that you use is also important. Shale will wash away and will have to be replaced quit often. If you can get it crushed river rock is best.
Walt
 

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