bmartin5566
Member
have a WD45,,,what conection rod do i need to stroks it ..230 buda diesel rods or 262 diesel or gas ...WHITCH ONES..I dont want to do crank work at this time.. i know u have too do crank work with FARMALL H RODS...thanks
- Thread starter bmartin5566
- Start date
May be wrong but by my thinking you cannot change the STROKE buy changing the rods , now you can change the displacement but will require the center of the rod thro (crank) to be moved to change the stroke. Built many pulling tractors and can,t see changing just the rods making the stroke any more. I think you are thinking change the compression maybe.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
A shorter rod will have the same swept volume but going deeper and less high into the c chamber will lose compresion. .A longer rod will go higher but not as far down. Neither will incease stroke. This is related to the throws on the crankshaft . Too much and the deck height is a clash.The crank journals can be wedled up and ground offset to increase a small amount.This type work is expensive. There are 3 ways to increase power in any engine. Volumetric effeciency;; More flow through the heat pump.cam ,headwork . Mechanical efficency ;small gains through things like roller tappets ,bearings replacing bushing . and thermal efeciency; getting heat away after maximum heat at combustion time. The eaiest way to read up is probably an automotive book such as the old "SUPERTUNING" Or Bill Jenkins , Smokey Yunick . both have great books.
Rod length in most cases is best left as stock as claims have been made that conflict each other. Also read sites like Isky Cams ,Hasting Rings etc for more info.
Rod length in most cases is best left as stock as claims have been made that conflict each other. Also read sites like Isky Cams ,Hasting Rings etc for more info.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
One other note; the way the motor has to be set up as a stroker is a piston with a relocated wrist pin hole. This cures the going too high towards the head. If you stroke the crank you will need pistons to work with the increased stroke yet still maintain a reasonable compression ratio. The stock piston would be shoved into the head and ,, well not good.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
With a larger squish clearance like that no piston needed then the build is not so expensive. I should have stated not every case will require pistons with a relocated wrist pin hole. Some I have used where the rings go around aluminum buttons with the ring groove in the button the wrist pin holes are so much higher.[ r domes lower].
dr sportster
Well-known Member
One other "trick " should be mentioned here as it is an economical one. Finding a con rod with a smaller big end than stock[ from a different motor] . Now the crankshaft grinder can grind a new offset smaller circle on the existing stock crankshaft. The new smaller rod diameter being offset to increase stroke by grinding heavy on one side and lighter on the other No build up welding of the crank is required to do this. The " meat" from the crank is shifted over to add stroke.
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