(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

What type trailer would sell best?

jon f mn

jon f mn

Well-known Member
I'm going to be building another trailer, IF the snow ever melts. LOL. I can't decide which type to build tho. I'm going to sell it after and was wondering which kind the folks here think would be easier to sell. It's going to be all aluminum and very light weight. It will have 2-3500lb torflex axles with electric brakes. It will be 16 or 18' long. I can make it like the utility type trailers with the sides, either straight or angled down, like the 2 in the pics or a flat deck with drive over fenders and beavertail. It will have a structural aluminum deck. I figure with the 1,000 lb. coupler it will be rated at 8,000 lbs. and have an empty weight of 1,000 lbs.+/- for a payload of 7,000 lbs. max. These are pics of some like each description that I have done in the past. The trailer will have to be 7,000 lb because that is the axles that I have right now. I'll be doing some heavier duty trailers later. So which type do you think will be easier to sell?
a152539.jpg

a152540.jpg
 
Most people don't think about it, but if you ever want to haul a pallet of something the landscape type you can't get a forklift to set a pallet onto them.
The flat type decks are far more handy !
 
I have an 18' Big Tex with beaver tail. I have run into problems with otherwise safe loads that are over 7' wide because the fenders conflict. So I end up doing a lot of cribbing to support parts that would otherwise trash my fenders. Other than that it is a great trailer. has a short lip up both sides which I kinda like as it might help save a load that shifts...never had that happen yet. Has about a one foot rail across the front which saved my bacon once when a hay wagon came loose and rolled forward on the trailer. Rail saved the back of the pickup. A rail all the way around would make some types of loading and unloading difficult as said previously. Winch receiver would be a nice touch.
 
But they THINK they can. One of the most annoying types of trailers my Dad had to deal with when he drove forklift for an auction company, 99.999% of the time he had to SHOW them the forklift wouldn't load it.

The third type is also preferable for hauling scrap when a dump trailer can't be used, or it is around here. The claw operators around here are libel to try to pick your whole trailer up if it has the land scape sides on it.

So the problem here is do you want to build the best trailer you can for your time and money, or the one that will sell the fastest/for the most?
 
Dave, sounds like you wish you had a deck over-beaver tail.

In all honesty though, I doubt you can find one trailer type that is good for every job a person might possibly think of!
 
I have 18' H&H flat bed with 3500 axles.. Love the trailer except I would/should of looked for one with 5000 axles.. I usually push that 7000 load weight. with trailer weighing 2200 that leaves 4800.. 100 bales of hay at 50-60lb each pushed that limit..
 
I've learned to hate the trailers with angle iron sides on them, can't use pallet forks with them. Pocket stakes let me use a side or not as the occasion requires.

Also don't like a single axle unless its a lawn mower hauler, anything bigger and it should have 2 axles. Every farm and fleet store sells discount versions of these.

So clearly your best chance at profit is making the third style. I'd be inclined to look for pocket stakes, and a front rail to hold the load is often good but perhaps without and just front pockets is fine too.

Which of course you knew already before asking. ;)

Paul
 
Well....

I would buy that 16 foot flat deck from you in a heart beat! That is the exact type of trailer Classic Car Collectors are looking for, plus the beaver tail makes the low profile cars (corvette etc.) MUCH MUCH MUCH easier to load! Thats what I would build, but it probably depends on your area! Bryce
 
I'd go with the others on #3- I've never understood the advantage of the side rails- just in the way for hay or pallet loading, and not really needed for machinery or vehicles, because you'll be chaining them down anyhow.

I have a tilt-bed car trailer, which of course is even handier- but that may be getting beyond the scope of what you want to do. Mine is about as simple as you could ever find- it uses a standard floor jack to tilt, but with tractors, the front wheels will tilt it, so you just drive on past the over-center point, watch for the hitch to go down about 2 inches, and you'll be where you want to be.

Am curious about the drive-over fenders- would they support the front wheels of a 6,500# tractor? Very handy, if they're skookum enough. Would almost seem like they would have to be steel rather than aluminum, to get them strong enough.
 
the trailer in the second pic the wheels are way too far forward, that thing will start fishtailing at 40mph, also when you put a car on it you will have to roll down the window and climb out because you can't open the door with the fenders in the way. my .02 cents
 
Jon,

If those are all trailers that you"ve made, hats off. They all look great.

I think the flat trailer is the ticket. With a cheap set of atv ramps you could load multiple four wheelers, lawn mowers, etc, from the side. Vehicle, or smaller tractors would load easy with the dove tail. Stake pockets to use for tie downs or to build your own sides for. Best of all you can set stuff on and off with pallet forks. I like the height of it vs a deck over too. BW
 
The lower trailer with 16' deck with 2' beaver tail and removeable ramps.Put a gooseneck on and it's perfect for a halfton pickup.
 
gotta agree there -

HOWEVER -

I gotta say, when you're actually shopping for a trailer, those sides LOOK real handy.

They LOOK like they'll keep all your hay neat, or hold anything that comes unfastened, etc. etc.

They always LOOK like a good idea.

Then you start using it and you want to cut them all off.

So, even though I agree 1000% with the need for no sides - I'm wondering if they don't actually SELL better with sides. You do see an awful lot of them on the road.
 
I'll agree with number 3, when I look at them I'd want drive over fenders so its plenty wide, and the longer the better, like said not much price difference.
 
I should clarify a few things here. First, the general idea on the utility trailers with the sides is not about having sides, it's about cost. The sides are what's called a truss type frame. Since the sides are in the neighborhood of 14" tall you can use a LOT less pounds of metal to carry the weight over say a 4" or 6" channel frame. That is why they are cheaper. The angle frame trailers of the same capacity will weigh hundreds of pounds less than channel trailers.

In this case the top 2 would be very similar in cost, but the flat will be about $1,000.00 more because of the extra material and labor. That may make a difference in your recommendations.

As far as the 20' recomendation I am thinking that with just 7,000 lb capacity that would be too long and lead to overloading. It would also dramatically increase the cost in this case for more material. The structural deck that I will be using is VERY expensive.

Just an interesting note, all 3 of these trailers were built for the same customer.
 
I take it you weld aluminum. So do I. What alloy welding wire do you use and also material? I couldn't figure out why my welds were cracking on trailers til I discovered 4043 wire doesn't work with 5000 series metal, except 5052.
 
Ahhh, never thought of the sides as being part of the frame structure. Makes sense. I like them all, but think I would still pay the extra grand for the versatility of the last one. BW
 
Well Jon I like the last one. Neec something on the deck for traction otherwise the vehicle/loda will slide on a wet deck.
I would not have a beavertail--wasted space--make ramps that slide in under the deck in back.

Just some suggestions
Dave
 
I use to have rails on my old trailer, nice for hooking tie straps and other light duty stuff to. But... now that I have a trailer with no sides it is much more useful. It has nice big d rings for my chain binders and I can fork pallets off it.

Rick
 
Really hard to argue with you, every time I get my smaller single axle trailer out......... With the low angle irons around.......

;)

Paul
 
Don't like the way the knees are on the second trailer. Check out where corn pro locates their knees.

I had a trailer with sides, don't like sides. I like an implement trailer.

I like a minimum of 81 inches between fenders. Fenders must be strong enough to stand on without bending.

As for selling, most people look only at price. Your third trailer looks nice.

A few years ago, I bought a 18+2 sure track, 14K wood deck implement trailer for around $3200 plus tax. It works for me. It's built good enough for my needs.

So, back to price. What will your's sell for? Will it be a 7K? I had a 7K with side rails. Got rid of it because I bent the axles.
George
 
If I were buying it ,I would say the third one is it. The best I ever used was a twenty footer. The first 4' was stationary and the back 16' was a tilt bed. Great for loading and unloading.Only $85 for a full days use.
 
No 3 since I already have a PJ B5 buggy hauler that is similar to it. Mine is 10000# by 20 ft. Fold up ramps could be handy.
 
I use almost exclusively 4043 wire in my spool gun. I do sometimes use 5356, but not enough to even keep any in the shop. For tig I use 5356 for everything. On jobs like this trailer everything will be mig except what's too thin to mig, that gets tig.
 
I agree with the guy that said the axles are too far forward on the 2nd trailer.

The 1000# coupler won't give you an 8K GVWR. Since your axles have a combined 7K rating that's what most manufacturers would rate their trailers at. Some will add 10% to their capacity because of the 10% tongue weight. So you're looking at 7K or maybe 7700 GVWR. I also think you're under estimating the curb weight of the trailer.

No one trailer type is perfect. Of the types you pictured, #3 is the most useful. I prefer to not have a beaver tail. I'd rather have the entire deck be usable. All a beaver tail is, is a partial ramp that's stationary. Since you're using aluminum I'd recommend a flat deck and longer ramps.

Size.....18-20' would be nice, but you're using those light duty axles. I think that limits you to 16-18' max.
 
Structural aluminum is usually welded with 5356. Cast aluminum is usually welded with 4043. For non critical applications these two wires are often interchangeable. There are some other less popular grades of welding wire for specific applications but if you can't decide between 4043 and 5356, get some of the new Maxal 4943 wire. It's the cat's azz according to a guy I know who specializes in aluminum welding. Wets out better than 4043 and basically welds like 4043 with the higher strength of 5356. Check the specs. to see if it is recommended for 5000 series aluminum.
 
May have been mentioned,
One of mine is a 102" wide which is great for loading,
but pulling it is kind of a pain-wide.
Also have to have the triple light
on back in the middle, I think.
Just throwin it out there,
Danny
 
#3
if possible, removable fenders are a good option.
The 20' 7k flatbed with dovetail trailer I had for years
had removable fenders.
Only had to take them off to load, unload something a few times,
but those times it HAD to be done.
 
One that is capable of being towed, without any modifications, as either a "Ball & Socket", "Pintle & Ring", "Gooseneck", or "Fifth Wheel" .

If you can figure out that engineering nightmare, you've got yourself a WINNER.

LOL!
 
Trailer #3 is the only one I would consider for my purposes. 18 ft. with or without a beaver tail is fine.

Suggestions would be a receiver on the front for a removable winch system and a wood deck. The winch receiver could be an option and for me I wouldn't even consider a trailer with a metal deck.

What overall width is #3 built too? 8 ft. or 8 ft. 6 in.?

Sorry it doesn't show very well but attached is a pic of my trailer with the winch receiver I built. The winch is in a framework that plugs into the receiver then a battery box pins on top of the winch framework so it is all portable. If it would help I can get better pics of the setup once the snow melts off of it.

mvphoto5669.jpg

[/img]
 
Well, that must be an optical illusion since they are at 60% like the others. Don't know why it looks like that. It certainly does look odd tho don't it.
 
Why not build a combination utility/equipment trailer. They are essentially the same except the railing. I have an equipment trailer, but have had several instances where rails on the sides would help hold the load in (scrap iron) or solid sides for hauling mulch/gravel. You could build an equipment trailer with removable solid side panels. Then you would have the best of both worlds.
 
Why aluminum? Aluminum represents a very small portion of the small trailer market. I think you're limiting your market by going with aluminum.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Trailer jack
Replies
8
Views
399
fastfarmall
F
K
Deckover, dove tail vs. straight
2
Replies
37
Views
2K
showcrop
showcrop
A
Capacity of DC winch to pull a tractor onto a trailer
Replies
17
Views
1K
buickanddeere
B
Butch(OH)
Consignment auction plow sales?
2
Replies
21
Views
647
Leroy
L
L
Need Advice-hiring hauler for 135 mi trip - vintage Trac
Replies
13
Views
2K
LarryMaine
L
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top