Farmall M wont run right

Douglas A Graham · Mar 19, 2014

I have gone through my 1950 Farnmall M this winter and now when I start it it pops and sputters when you try to raise it off an idle. I resealed the gas tank, installed an oem settlement bowl,(not a foreign one), a new gas line, a new carburater. I also converted it to 12 volt neg ground. I installed a new 12 volt to 6 volt coil at this time. I have good gas flow to carb and a good spark at the points. Is it possible my weights are sticking in my distributer? I am out of ideas, any help?

Pete76NY · Mar 19, 2014

When you say you went through it, how deep did you go? I bought a SM that did the same thing after the guy did an in frame rebuild, there are two timing marks when aligning the crank and cam gears, he used the wrong one. But it sounds more like you either got the distributer in 180 out, or simply have the firing order wring, check your plug wires and make sure that once you know you have the distributer in right, you start front to back for the firing order. Or you may just simply have the timing off some. There is a procedure for checking that in the book, you simply disconnect the coil wire and snap it under the distributer cap clip close to a bolt, turn on the ignition and slowly rotate the distributer until it snaps/sparks, you'll be real close then and the rest can be done by ear or with a timing light. It's something simple I bet, just keep checking and recheckin, you'll find it and go "geez I shoulda known that!" LOL it's happened to me plenty of times. Do you have a manual?

Brian Allen · Mar 19, 2014

Douglas
Please do not feel offended!
Pull the distributer cap off and watch which way the rotor button turns when the starter operates. Then look at the wires to make sure the wires are orientated correctly on the cap. Also could be crappy replacement parts. Also check the shaft for bushing wear, (side movement) and the lobes on the shaft for wear.
Post back with the results.
Brian

DeltaRed · Mar 19, 2014

Sounds loike you have it set way too lean.Open the 'load screw' to about 5 full turns.Or it is an ignition probrem. Points are not right.Reset them.It could be a bad condencer.Lots of these new Chinese condensers are bad right from the box

Russ from MN · Mar 19, 2014

If you changed the carburetor I agree with Delta, it's too lean. When it's idling, is it running on all 4 cylinders? Be sure to let us know what fixes it, so we can all learn!

greenmech · Mar 19, 2014

Do you have good spark at the plugs? When you went to 12 volts neg, did you change the coil polarity also? Ron Mn.

RedJA · Mar 19, 2014

Yes rusted sticking weighits can cause the symptoms you described. Sticking weights won't let the spark advance. I had the same problem on a Farmall Cub once. Removed the points and plate sprayed with wd40 , ran good after that. It could be as others have posted also. A lot of different problems can cause these symptoms.

Gary Mitchell · Mar 19, 2014

Might be a leaky intake manifold gasket.

James Babcock · Mar 19, 2014

Swap out dist cap if you run out of ideas. There are some serious "heavyweights" who have already posted on this, so I am just throwing that out there. This forum is a resource that should be archived in the "Museum of American Self-Reliance"

Rollie NE PA · Mar 19, 2014

I installed a new 12 volt to 6 volt coil at this time. Is this mistyped?
I would recheck the gap of the points. If you have not changed the condensor to one for a 12 volt setup, I would try it.
Some will say there is no differance between a 6 volt and 12 volt condensor. Research says there is.

Farmall M wont run right

Douglas A Graham

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Pete76NY

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Brian Allen

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DeltaRed

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Russ from MN

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greenmech

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RedJA

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Gary Mitchell

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James Babcock

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Rollie NE PA

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