'41 A Broken Manifold Stud **Update**

Ok everyone.

Took the head to my friends metal shop today. Tried a variety of methods to getting the stud out of the head on the '41 JD A. Here are the methods that we tried (after 8 tries):

1) Tig welded a washer and large nut onto the stud (probably 3 or four times). Tried both removing the stud while everything was red hot. The welds twisted off right at the stud. Then we allowed it to cool, tried turning a couple more times. The nut twisted off of the weld, but the weld stayed attached to the stud.

2) Tried the same method as above with a wire-feed welder with the same results - weld either twisted off at the stud or the nut twisted off of the weld.

3) Tried a mixture of the above two methods, also while heating the area of the cast with an oxygen/acetylene setup. Stud still wouldn't budge.

The question now is, am I stuck with drilling and tapping this? Seeing as I am going to have the head boiled/decked/etc., would it be wise to allow the machine shop to do the stud removal?

Maybe I should be posting this in the stuck and troubled, but I figured you all have been such a great help with this project already, I'd stick with it.

Ken

Drilling it out has only one real important component. Getting the hole centered. If it is not centered all other options become way more difficult. Use the chamfer on the casting, or factor in the twisted off helical thread into locating the drill hole (complicated with weld and slag!) If the hole is intended to be symmetrical with other holes measure and be sure of the drill location. A diamond bit in a dremel can do wonders to get at fresh bolt and centered in the threads. Even if it ruins the existing threads using a Thread Cert insert (not Helicoil) will make it new. Jim

That my friend is why I go straight to drilling and tapping and skip all the other easy ways people offer. I have most broken bolts out and tapped ready to use while other are dragging out their welders. You just have to make sure you are on a measured center before drilling the pilot hole. An eye ball center sometimes does not end up on center. You can tip your drill to get the dimple on a measured center without using much time before starting the pilot hole.

I am assuming this is a stud about 3/8 in size.Center punch the stud as close to center as you can ,drill with a new drill bit about 1/8in size and then redrill at least 3/16. then tig weld your washer and nut on let cool and slowly work it back and forth griping it with a good pair of Vise grips .

Having a hole in it allows it to contract or shrink after welding the washer and nut on . you may have to heat the casting around the stud if it doesn't come out on the first try . just try repeated attemts at heating the casting and the back and forth method with the vise grips . leting it cool completely between attempts . you may also want to try dead blows with a hammeer on the welded nut to help loosen .

this mettod rarely fails for me, if it does you have hole in the center of the stud so you can drill to size and tap. let us know if this works for you .

be patient and dont get in a hurry .

Candle wax has never failed me. Let it melt in as the weld cools. Might need to do it multiple times. Used to say, if you"re Catholic....use a blessed candle. Dunno if that works, but wax always has.

as you are not into drilling let the machine shop do it. the therads are not cut as deep on the end that go in the head that make them stay in the head also very hard to un screw

If it were me, I'd try one more time before drilling.

The wax is a good idea - try that, weld the nut back on, then use an impact wrench on it. The shock is often much more effective than steady force.

Lower the air pressure and let it hammer away on the stud for a minute - if nothing, increase pressure - keep increasing the air pressure till it either finally moves or knocks the nut off.

If the nut comes off, drill it.

We did attempt to use a 1/2" drive SnapOn cordless impact wrench. Did not prove successful.

"1) Tig welded a washer and large nut onto the stud (probably 3 or four times). Tried both removing the stud while everything was red hot. The welds twisted off right at the stud. Then we allowed it to cool, tried turning a couple more times. The nut twisted off of the weld, but the weld stayed attached to the stud."


NO use for us "old timers" to try to talk to you young buckaroos, but if you want to be successful at broken stud/bolt removal, never EVER try to wrench on it while it's HOT.

Weld a washer (or whatever) to the broken stud, then let it cool to ambient temperature. Even weld a bit more to it and let it cool (again).

Only THEN, wrench on it.

The cycle of HOT and cool breaks the rust loose and gives you a fighting chance to remove the broken stud/bolt.

Wrenching on it hot DOESN'T work!

This is good to know. We figured get it while it is hot. How about letting it cool to air temp, and then heating the cast with a oxy/acet. torch?