i am in need of adding some fence at one farm and fixing a different fence (or maybe just replacing it all together to) and was wondering what type of fence and fence posts i should use, i see all kinds of fence from barb to electric to the fancy wooden fence which i dont want, too fancy and $$ for me and i see wooden and metal fence posts with the metal ones being much thinner, so i was wondering what kind of fence and fence posts should i use. the fence will have calves which will be grown to about 1000 pounds or so
- Thread starter blue924.9
- Start date
Barb wire/steel posts.The industry standard.Keep
the critters well fed/watered HAPPY,they will stay
in.They get thirsty/hungry they will 'escape'.NO
fence will hold em.But then,there are some critters
that NO fence will hold.....The other types are no
more effective than barbed,only more expencive.
the critters well fed/watered HAPPY,they will stay
in.They get thirsty/hungry they will 'escape'.NO
fence will hold em.But then,there are some critters
that NO fence will hold.....The other types are no
more effective than barbed,only more expencive.
dcarp
Well-known Member
- Location
- Schulenburg Texas
I used cedar posts 8' apart and 5 strands of 4 barb barbed wire. On the fence lines with cattle on the other side I added a strand of electric on the inside. Electric was necessary to keep my bull inside.
I see a few fences with wooden posts with 3 metal t-posts then another wooden post.
I see a few fences with wooden posts with 3 metal t-posts then another wooden post.
in-too-deep
Well-known Member
Do you have access to electricity? If so, set railroad ties or large posts atleast 3 ft. deep at the corners. Steel T-post every 20ft. 3 or 4 strands of 14 ga. wire with plastic insulators. And the most powerful fence charger you can get. Gallagher is a good brand at the top-end. The MOST important thing is at least 2- 8ft long ground rods driven in at the fence charger. One at the charger and the rest every eight feet with quality clamps.
No electricity? Same corner posts, but with brace posts and H-braces in all corners. Steel T-post every 10ft, and 3 or 4 strands of barbed wire stretched VERY tight. Why you need the H-braces at the ends, 'cause you need to stretch it.
Or, if money and electricity is available, corner H braces and big posts or ties every 40 feet and 3 or 4 strands of high tensile electric. Uses tension springs and wind-up tensioners. Again, VERY tight so you need GOOD corners.
Did I mention good corners and tight?
Go cruise around Premier fencing website to see how to build good H-braces and pricing.
No electricity? Same corner posts, but with brace posts and H-braces in all corners. Steel T-post every 10ft, and 3 or 4 strands of barbed wire stretched VERY tight. Why you need the H-braces at the ends, 'cause you need to stretch it.
Or, if money and electricity is available, corner H braces and big posts or ties every 40 feet and 3 or 4 strands of high tensile electric. Uses tension springs and wind-up tensioners. Again, VERY tight so you need GOOD corners.
Did I mention good corners and tight?
Go cruise around Premier fencing website to see how to build good H-braces and pricing.
in-too-deep
Well-known Member
Oh, and to second DeltaRed. Take good care of your cattle, and they will have no reason to leave.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known Member
H-braced railroad tie corners with cedar line posts at 50 feet and 5 strands of 12ga high tensile wire strung up around my farm. Good hot fence charger and happy animals and I haven't had any issues with them going through the fence. Any animal that destroys the fence gets a free ride to the freezer.
john in la
Well-known Member
Most everybody around here uses strong wooden corner post braced with another wooden post as 1st line post. All the other line post are metal T post. If it is a long run you can add 2 braced wooden post in the line.
On this they put 3 foot woven wire and 1 or 2 strands of barbed wire on top.
All wire goes on inside (cow side) of post.
The barbed wire on top keeps the cow from pushing the woven wire down and the woven wire keeps the neighbors dogs out of your pasture.
On this they put 3 foot woven wire and 1 or 2 strands of barbed wire on top.
All wire goes on inside (cow side) of post.
The barbed wire on top keeps the cow from pushing the woven wire down and the woven wire keeps the neighbors dogs out of your pasture.
Tom in TN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Southern Middle Tennessee
Blue,
This probably isn't the cheapest fence, but I've had very good results for a lot of years with:
1. Braced wooden corner posts
2. Creosote 4 to 5 inch line posts ever 50 feet
3. 6 1/2 foot red t-posts between the line posts on 10 foot centers
4. 4 foot high woven fence wire
5. one stand of barbed wire above the 4 foot high woven wire
YMMV, but that's what I do.
Tom in TN
This probably isn't the cheapest fence, but I've had very good results for a lot of years with:
1. Braced wooden corner posts
2. Creosote 4 to 5 inch line posts ever 50 feet
3. 6 1/2 foot red t-posts between the line posts on 10 foot centers
4. 4 foot high woven fence wire
5. one stand of barbed wire above the 4 foot high woven wire
YMMV, but that's what I do.
Tom in TN
I have had cattle on this farm for thirty years,
and I won't trade my high tensile for barbed wire
any day. My perimeter fencing is six strands of
HT with electric on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th wires.
Posts are heavier on the corners- usually an old
telephone pole or at least a 6" pine post, cross
and head braced. Line posts are all 4-5" set at
16' centers. I'm cross fenced into paddocks, with
2 to 3 wires of HT, and the posts are 50' apart.
For perimeter gates- I have 6- we use a 16'
standard gate. All of the cross fencing gates are
spring gates with 2 insulating handles for ease in
moving the animals between paddocks. If a tree
comes down, we can cut it off and the fence
springs back up. The only maintenance to it is to
occasionally check the staples and maybe tighten
it up some due to stretching. After the first
year or two, it's not much to do, and only takes a
couple of hours on several mile of it. It's easy
to run initially, and once you learn the basics,
really great to work with. The biggest thing is
to build it right to begin with, use a good
charger, and the cows will stay put with little
trouble. There's an outfit I have used
extensively in the past for parts called Kencove
fencing in Pennsylvania. The have a great catalog
of items with good pictures and ideas for most any
kind of fence. You can call them at 1-800-KENCOVE
and they'll mail you a catalogue right away. Have
fun with it....
and I won't trade my high tensile for barbed wire
any day. My perimeter fencing is six strands of
HT with electric on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th wires.
Posts are heavier on the corners- usually an old
telephone pole or at least a 6" pine post, cross
and head braced. Line posts are all 4-5" set at
16' centers. I'm cross fenced into paddocks, with
2 to 3 wires of HT, and the posts are 50' apart.
For perimeter gates- I have 6- we use a 16'
standard gate. All of the cross fencing gates are
spring gates with 2 insulating handles for ease in
moving the animals between paddocks. If a tree
comes down, we can cut it off and the fence
springs back up. The only maintenance to it is to
occasionally check the staples and maybe tighten
it up some due to stretching. After the first
year or two, it's not much to do, and only takes a
couple of hours on several mile of it. It's easy
to run initially, and once you learn the basics,
really great to work with. The biggest thing is
to build it right to begin with, use a good
charger, and the cows will stay put with little
trouble. There's an outfit I have used
extensively in the past for parts called Kencove
fencing in Pennsylvania. The have a great catalog
of items with good pictures and ideas for most any
kind of fence. You can call them at 1-800-KENCOVE
and they'll mail you a catalogue right away. Have
fun with it....
I use high tensile wire/springs/tighteners/hot modern fencer, and that's been covered already.
I'd like to mention - if you already own the calves, you are a step ahead of me, but if you're going to buy calves, say from the sale barn, it's actually possible to come home with calves that are nearly impossible to be kept in a fence. In fact, that may be the sole reason that they're at the sale barn to start with - someone got sick of messing with a wild acting animal and sent him to a new home. I've done that myself. Keep in mind that I'm not saying that ALL sale barn calves are unmanageable. My neighbor bought a round of calves a few years ago, and they scattered all over the neighborhood. Took about six months before I got the last one caught in my barn. Guess where that miserable creature went when we got wheels under him. You're right - the sale barn. You probably have more cattle knowledge than me, but just in case. . .
I'd like to mention - if you already own the calves, you are a step ahead of me, but if you're going to buy calves, say from the sale barn, it's actually possible to come home with calves that are nearly impossible to be kept in a fence. In fact, that may be the sole reason that they're at the sale barn to start with - someone got sick of messing with a wild acting animal and sent him to a new home. I've done that myself. Keep in mind that I'm not saying that ALL sale barn calves are unmanageable. My neighbor bought a round of calves a few years ago, and they scattered all over the neighborhood. Took about six months before I got the last one caught in my barn. Guess where that miserable creature went when we got wheels under him. You're right - the sale barn. You probably have more cattle knowledge than me, but just in case. . .
formenwhogrow
Member
Wooden posts at the corner braces, 5 strand high tensile wire with at least 2 hot and use these t-posts. http://www.plastic-innovation.com
Steel t-posts are junk, they will rot right at ground level after a few years if you are in a wetter area. These hardened plastic ones will never break, rust, or short out your electric fence.
Steel t-posts are junk, they will rot right at ground level after a few years if you are in a wetter area. These hardened plastic ones will never break, rust, or short out your electric fence.
High tensile - do the corners and gate openings properly.
go to a tractor supply store if you have one near you, and get the free brochure on how to install the fence - it gives you all the details on doing it right.
Stick to that plan and you'll thank yourself for years to come.
Cheap out on a fence, or cut corners in any way and you'll be absolutely miserable until you rebuild it the right way.
go to a tractor supply store if you have one near you, and get the free brochure on how to install the fence - it gives you all the details on doing it right.
Stick to that plan and you'll thank yourself for years to come.
Cheap out on a fence, or cut corners in any way and you'll be absolutely miserable until you rebuild it the right way.
Brown Swiss
Well-known Member
I do 5 strands of 2 point barb, wooden corner and brace post, then t post in middle, with wooden post every 4 to 6 post, I do that cause even when they are happy they seem to be happier reaching through the fence cause they heard the grass is greener on the other side! On a side note, when I set all wooden posts I oil them with used oil and nail a small piece of 2 by 4 on both sides the post, say 6" long with pole barn nails, that is cause the frost will sometimes heave them out of the ground here in Wisconsin! That is all.
Bill in IL
Well-known Member
I feel you should use 5 strand barbed wire either high tensile or std. Make good solid corners and don't waste your time with the light 1.25 lb T posts. Make sure you seek out the 1.35lb ones they are much stronger. I prefer all hedge post but very labor intensive to build.
Electric is nice and cheap but takes constant maintenance to keep up and the newer fence chargers are crap.
Electric is nice and cheap but takes constant maintenance to keep up and the newer fence chargers are crap.
no i do not have the cattle yet, but i am not worried about unruly cattle, my uncle had an unruly cow and what he finally did to break his constant acts of defiance was to borrow my grandpas little massey harris 22 (because of size and nice quiet muffler) and tied a rope and halter on him and walked him....well at first he more drug him. after that the calf was just as calm and well mannered as could be. i have no problem working with my cattle, sometimes like in this case thats all it takes
Tom in TN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Southern Middle Tennessee
Blue,
You might not have any options other than TSC, but I can tell you that the TSC stores in my area are consistently 20% more expensive than my farmers co-op and the quality is not as good either.
TSC is fine in a pinch, but it would never be my first choice.
At least, that's the way it is in Middle Tennessee.
Tom in TN
You might not have any options other than TSC, but I can tell you that the TSC stores in my area are consistently 20% more expensive than my farmers co-op and the quality is not as good either.
TSC is fine in a pinch, but it would never be my first choice.
At least, that's the way it is in Middle Tennessee.
Tom in TN
yes I wasn't necessarily saying to buy the products from them (nor am I saying NOT to buy from them)- just that they usually have a flier laying with all the fencing materials that offers a pretty comprehensive "how to build a cow fence" plan.
Start with that, and then shop around.
We followed those directions and are very happy with the results - although we did go overkill on the post sizes - but I think even if we didn't, we'd still be just as happy with it.
Hopefully your store offers the same flyer, if not I'm sure the info's on the web somewhere.
Start with that, and then shop around.
We followed those directions and are very happy with the results - although we did go overkill on the post sizes - but I think even if we didn't, we'd still be just as happy with it.
Hopefully your store offers the same flyer, if not I'm sure the info's on the web somewhere.
Traditional Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Virginia
I've gone mostly to welded 16ft cattle panels from TSC by the pallet they're around $20 each and with a steel T post every 8ft its costs just under $2ft to put up not counting my labor.They are quick and easy to put up and if a tree falls on one just cut off the tree and usually bend it back out and ready to go again with wire it'll destroy 30 to 50 ft of fence.My wife and I can easily put up 20 panels in a morning.And the fence will keep in cattle,calves,hogs,goats,dogs,goats and most anything else.
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
Do yourself a favor and skip the medieval torture device known as barb wire and put in hi-tensile. It may cost a little more now, but the faster installation time and faster maintenance later will make up for it. Especially if you use green or white insulators, they stand out against the posts, and easy to see if one is missing.
Three strands, top and bottom hot, hold our cows and bulls in. Calves will walk through it in a dry summer but they find their way back to mamma. Center wire has a ground rod at far end from the charger.
Another benefit of tensile is that you don"t need to set braces every time you have to change course. And if you are fencing around the corner of a field, you can follow the curve in the field corner and put the little pocket of waste to use.
Our preferred solar charger is the Sta-fix. It will knock you off the 4-wheeler when the Parmak Solar-Packs (2nd choice) will barely (or won"t) buzz you. Then we have several of the Gallagher S50"s, which have 2 advantages over the Parmak"s of being 12 volt instead of 6. With a couple spade connectors and a few feet of wire you can hook it to an irrigation battery if its battery goes bad. It"s also easier to secure, as it mounts onto a T-post. But it"s not as hot a charger.
Then the Zareba SP3T is good for keeping the cattle off of well sites, pivot bases, etc. Also will hang off a T-post.
Stafix 3J solar charger
Three strands, top and bottom hot, hold our cows and bulls in. Calves will walk through it in a dry summer but they find their way back to mamma. Center wire has a ground rod at far end from the charger.
Another benefit of tensile is that you don"t need to set braces every time you have to change course. And if you are fencing around the corner of a field, you can follow the curve in the field corner and put the little pocket of waste to use.
Our preferred solar charger is the Sta-fix. It will knock you off the 4-wheeler when the Parmak Solar-Packs (2nd choice) will barely (or won"t) buzz you. Then we have several of the Gallagher S50"s, which have 2 advantages over the Parmak"s of being 12 volt instead of 6. With a couple spade connectors and a few feet of wire you can hook it to an irrigation battery if its battery goes bad. It"s also easier to secure, as it mounts onto a T-post. But it"s not as hot a charger.
Then the Zareba SP3T is good for keeping the cattle off of well sites, pivot bases, etc. Also will hang off a T-post.
Stafix 3J solar charger
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