I need to buy a generator. I am looking at a Rigid(Home Depot) 5700 watts for $700. Also looking at a Troy-built(Lowes) 6200 watts for $700. Need to run a few lights, freezer, well pump, and hot water heater during power outages. Anyone have any input, advice, or suggestions? Thank you.
- Thread starter JD60677
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Nancy Howell
Well-known Member
Did you look at the product online? If so, there may be customer reviews posted that can be very helpful.
Bought a new range for the kitchen ($1000) and the reviews helped considerably in selecting which one to buy.
Bought a new range for the kitchen ($1000) and the reviews helped considerably in selecting which one to buy.
Hay hay hay
Well-known Member
I have a Husky 5000, Robin (Subaru) engine. Light usage but has worked well for the same purpose. Wheeled cart is helpful.
We have had very few power outages since I bought it, so it was a good investment... to keep the power on.
Hope yours works the same way.
We have had very few power outages since I bought it, so it was a good investment... to keep the power on.
Hope yours works the same way.
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Water heater alone takes either 4800 or 5300 watts.
How is the generator going to be connected to the house service panel?
How is the generator going to be connected to the house service panel?
Do yourself a favor and at least consider a Honda. I know they are more costly, but they are a good reliable piece of equipment. I have not had very good luck with the cheap ones. A local farm store here in southern Illinois (they sell the cheaper units) has a big sign on the door something on the order that they do not handle repairs/warranties on generators they sell and that customers have to deal directly with the manufacturer...kinda leads one to believe there are a lot of problems with them. I bought my Honda several years ago and have been real happy with it. It is an easy starter and has a feature that lets is "lope" when demand is low which saves a lot of fuel. Good luck!
Water heaters are a constant dead load. "Induction Load" That means it doesn't change. It is a shame they are not like a motor or something. You need to read the plate on your water heater and let us know the deal. Voltage amps. or way we can give better advice. One of my generators , the little 1200 watt two cycle unit. Neighbor borrowed it to run his fridge after a bad thunder storm. It WILL run your fridge.... but then his wife wanted coffee. The little coffee maker kept tripping the breaker on the generator. Coffee maker was ratted at 1200watts on the nose. You may find the Harbor freight 7000/8750 peak generator better. Right now they are $529.99. It is a self start unit and the engine is a 13HP Honda knock off copy. Even the Honda parts fit. NOW this is my opinion and if others want to chime in then come on down.
Richard G.
Well-known Member
I really like my Lowes Troy-Bilt. I tried it the other day on my 1 HP well pump and it did great. I used a shorter wire than I had been using and it really helped. The Troy-Bilt has never failed to start even after sitting 6 or more months at a time.
At the rate it is snowing right now, I may get to use it again soon. It is a 3550 watt unit with 5500 starting watts.
Richard in NW SC
At the rate it is snowing right now, I may get to use it again soon. It is a 3550 watt unit with 5500 starting watts.
Richard in NW SC
picassomcp
Member
I too have been wanting to buy a generator for backup power ever since the basement flooded during an outage due to the sump pump not having power to run. I still have not bought one due to not knowing what size I need to run a fridge, sump pump and the small taco pump and fan on my outside wood boiler. I could do without the other electric items until power was restored. I"d love to hookup to the power panel and then shut off the breakers for the circuits not being used. I"m not sure if there is a way to do that at all, if there is, I"d love to learn how. The best I can come up with is extension cords from the generator to the fridge and sump pump, unsure how I would get power to the wood boiler in this case. I"ll be following this thread, as I would really feel better If I had a generator that I knew would do the job, especially if I knew how to hook it up to the power panel.
paul in mo
Member
so if i also want to buy a generator for power outage what size is need. all i have is gas furnace refridge and lights maybe tv. hot water heater is gas and so is furnace. any information will be very helpful thanks Paul
I have a Briggs and Stratton brand 5500 watt with a 10 hp OHV engine. I also have an electric water heater and a well. I keep one turned off when I am running the other. Furnace is gas, but does use some electric, hot surface igniter,draft inducer and fan motor do not draw that much juice. Also keeps freezer and refrigerator running with some lights, but it is a gas hog, 5 gals last about 7 hours.
gene bender
Well-known Member
The 220 outlet isnt going to run a hot water heater but it will run your deep well pump. Hot water isnt at the top of needs when the power is off. If you think you need hot water you will need a bigger gen heat ,few lites and water are at the top of the must list.
Billy Shafer
Well-known Member
Some of those boat pumps can really move the water.
gene bender
Well-known Member
A 5500 will get you by good as what you want doesent take many amps. Thats what i have and it works well only need a couple lites
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
The water heater may be an issue. 30 gallon = 3500w 40 gallon = 4500 watt and 50 gallon = 5500w.
You don't want to use a 5500 watt genny at full power for a long period of time. I think the watt rating of a genny is over rated. Don't push them to their limits if you want them to last. IMHO, it's like the duty cycle on a welder. Just my opinion.
Making electricity with gasoline is about 7 times more expensive than buying electricity from the power company.
Operating an RV genny, 3500 watt, at half power will cost you about $1/hour for gas.
I know a guy who operated his 5500 watt genny for 3 days and it cost him over $100 in gas. OUCH
You may want to rethink making hot water with gasoline. Think more like camping out and taking a sponge path. Make hot water in an electric roaster pan or crock pot.
I made an energy management device for my 3500 watt RV honda china clone. All I want to power up is the well #1, coffee pot, hot plate #2, and refrig #3. When my well kicks on, all the power to #2 & #3 is turned off. When well stops #2 gets power and a few minutes later #3 ref is turned on.
I no more than got this device working and it got tested for 7 hours, lost power.
I like my 3500 watt champion RV genny, $300 at TSC, so much I purchased a second champion, 46565, from Home depot for $469. The second one has remote electric start, digital voltmeter, hour meter and frequency meter.
Besides considering how much it will cost you to operate, you may want to consider do you need the genny to be portable or stationary, and how noisy is it. I think you will find the champion is very quiet. I know others have complained how noisy their gennies are, especially the Briggs engine.
champion 46565
You don't want to use a 5500 watt genny at full power for a long period of time. I think the watt rating of a genny is over rated. Don't push them to their limits if you want them to last. IMHO, it's like the duty cycle on a welder. Just my opinion.
Making electricity with gasoline is about 7 times more expensive than buying electricity from the power company.
Operating an RV genny, 3500 watt, at half power will cost you about $1/hour for gas.
I know a guy who operated his 5500 watt genny for 3 days and it cost him over $100 in gas. OUCH
You may want to rethink making hot water with gasoline. Think more like camping out and taking a sponge path. Make hot water in an electric roaster pan or crock pot.
I made an energy management device for my 3500 watt RV honda china clone. All I want to power up is the well #1, coffee pot, hot plate #2, and refrig #3. When my well kicks on, all the power to #2 & #3 is turned off. When well stops #2 gets power and a few minutes later #3 ref is turned on.
I no more than got this device working and it got tested for 7 hours, lost power.
I like my 3500 watt champion RV genny, $300 at TSC, so much I purchased a second champion, 46565, from Home depot for $469. The second one has remote electric start, digital voltmeter, hour meter and frequency meter.
Besides considering how much it will cost you to operate, you may want to consider do you need the genny to be portable or stationary, and how noisy is it. I think you will find the champion is very quiet. I know others have complained how noisy their gennies are, especially the Briggs engine.
champion 46565
Billy Shafer
Well-known Member
What ever you do. Buy a name brand unit. Stay away from the auto store Harbor Frieght units. I have five in my shop.Some for two years now still trying to find parts for them
Install a transfer switch on your power input to isolate it from the system, and eliminate the possibility of frying a lineman. This is not the place to cut corner$. With a smaller than whole house generator, turn off unwanted breakers before starting the generator.
Determine which appliances you need to run at the same time. Add up the wattage figures you find on their nameplates. If watts are not listed, remember that watts = amps times volts. Allow extra capacity for startup of the appliances. If you want a machine with a history of reliable starts, get a Honda engine.
Determine which appliances you need to run at the same time. Add up the wattage figures you find on their nameplates. If watts are not listed, remember that watts = amps times volts. Allow extra capacity for startup of the appliances. If you want a machine with a history of reliable starts, get a Honda engine.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
This is something you can't just guess at, and no two applications are going to be the same.
You have to do a careful inventory of every appliance you intend to operate on the generator. Each appliance will have a tag indicating the amps or watts required. With that information in hand, you can determine the wattage generator you need.
Also consider, how the wattage of the genset is rated. Many of the lesser brands are misleading, as the advertised wattage is "peak" wattage, as in intermittent load, not continuous.
My advise would be to consult a REAL dealer, one who can take your information and make a real world decision on what will suit your needs, and show you whats available for switching from grid to genset.
You will pay more this way, but in the long run, do you really want to be sitting in the cold wishing and wondering "now what do I do"?
You have to do a careful inventory of every appliance you intend to operate on the generator. Each appliance will have a tag indicating the amps or watts required. With that information in hand, you can determine the wattage generator you need.
Also consider, how the wattage of the genset is rated. Many of the lesser brands are misleading, as the advertised wattage is "peak" wattage, as in intermittent load, not continuous.
My advise would be to consult a REAL dealer, one who can take your information and make a real world decision on what will suit your needs, and show you whats available for switching from grid to genset.
You will pay more this way, but in the long run, do you really want to be sitting in the cold wishing and wondering "now what do I do"?
Nancy Howell
Well-known Member
I have the Champion 3500w for the living quarters in my horse trailer. First week of Dec., we had an ice storm and lost power for 12 hrs. Used it to run the heater in the trailer to keep the water lines from freezing. My only complaint is its hard to start. Sometimes takes 8 or 9 pulls.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
This guy is looking at spending $700 on a genny. That tells me he is worried about the cost. Some transfer switches will cost him in the $400-700 range. If he can't wire it himself then the cost goes up even more.
I wired up my well with a short 12g cord so I can plug it in to the outlet or an extension cord. I have many feet of 12g extension cords. I don't mind running cords when I have a power outage, which isn't that often. My gennies have to be portable. I have 10 rental properties that may need power. Cords work for me.
I wired up my well with a short 12g cord so I can plug it in to the outlet or an extension cord. I have many feet of 12g extension cords. I don't mind running cords when I have a power outage, which isn't that often. My gennies have to be portable. I have 10 rental properties that may need power. Cords work for me.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
That's why I bought the electric start model. It kills me to pull start anything. I even use 5w30 synthetic oil, only 550 ml. I try to keep both gennies in a warm garage in the winter.
I noticed yesterday at Menards, they are selling 0w20 synthetic oil. That would definately make it easier to start in sub-zero temps.
Some people think you should buy a Honda or brand name. You could throw away 6 champion gennies for the price of one honda. We live in a throw away world. I bought my first genny 3 years ago. Use it mostly to power an electric chainsaw. Power outages are not that often, but it's nice to have backup power.
Bet I could find a use for the engine if my genny went south.
I noticed yesterday at Menards, they are selling 0w20 synthetic oil. That would definately make it easier to start in sub-zero temps.
Some people think you should buy a Honda or brand name. You could throw away 6 champion gennies for the price of one honda. We live in a throw away world. I bought my first genny 3 years ago. Use it mostly to power an electric chainsaw. Power outages are not that often, but it's nice to have backup power.
Bet I could find a use for the engine if my genny went south.
Part Time Pete
Well-known Member
- Location
- Leatherstocking Region NY
I've got a 6500 watt running similar items to what you want to. It wont't run the well pump and the water heater at the same time with all the other building load. I have to shut off the pump while the water warms up, but it works.
Pete
Pete
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
There are some fellows here that have had good success . With a sliding interlock thingamajig that prevents closing the main breaker and generator breaker at the same time.
Cost is reasonable.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
I have a 5kw from Home Depot I have had since the '83 ice storm. Tried to use it for field arc welding and was just too light. Couple of years ago added a HF Chicago Electric 6.5kw normal, 7 surge, which handles the welder just fine.
The small one runs on a 10 hp Techumseh engine and the other a 16 hp Chicago electric. For light loading I run the small one especially when gas is in short supply here at the house.
I put them on the South porch since the wind is usually from the North, when necessary to use them in winter, and run extension cords into the house to the appliances I choose to operate. Obviously computers are part of that and I have the battery power + spike suppressor type isolation between the line and the computers so I don't worry about power variances from the portable power units.
I just plug the appliance into the extension cord and don't have to worry about back feed or any of that. Ok so I have extension cords running through the house and don't have hot water. Big deal. This is a temporary, not having to do without senario. I can put up with a little inconvenience.
For what it's worth a guy posted on here a couple of weeks or so ago that he built a new house about 5 years ago and included a 20 kw Genrac run off LP gas. It is a permanent installation with changeover breakers and all for about $6k plus installation. If power outages were common occurrence I would certainly be looking at something like that. TSC and Northern Tool plus others sell them.
Mark
The small one runs on a 10 hp Techumseh engine and the other a 16 hp Chicago electric. For light loading I run the small one especially when gas is in short supply here at the house.
I put them on the South porch since the wind is usually from the North, when necessary to use them in winter, and run extension cords into the house to the appliances I choose to operate. Obviously computers are part of that and I have the battery power + spike suppressor type isolation between the line and the computers so I don't worry about power variances from the portable power units.
I just plug the appliance into the extension cord and don't have to worry about back feed or any of that. Ok so I have extension cords running through the house and don't have hot water. Big deal. This is a temporary, not having to do without senario. I can put up with a little inconvenience.
For what it's worth a guy posted on here a couple of weeks or so ago that he built a new house about 5 years ago and included a 20 kw Genrac run off LP gas. It is a permanent installation with changeover breakers and all for about $6k plus installation. If power outages were common occurrence I would certainly be looking at something like that. TSC and Northern Tool plus others sell them.
Mark
I got tired of running extension cords everywhere and filling the gas tank when its dark. I had a 7500 watt Troy Bilt with the 16hp B&S engine. In 2012 we decided t buy a Kohler and it sure came in handy when the Hurricane Sandy hit the east coast in Oct. It will run on either LP or NG gas. We have NG and it's rated at 12kw on NG.
It has 16 circuits and one of those circuits keeps the battery charged. Most of my appliances are NG gas including the water heater. Hal
It has 16 circuits and one of those circuits keeps the battery charged. Most of my appliances are NG gas including the water heater. Hal
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
My own little bit of input on this would be to look at your main service panel. The main breakers should tell you what you need. As an example, if you have a two gang 50 amp breaker as your main, that would indicate that you have 100 amp service. Shouldn't need a generator that is larger than your service.
Just another note....
Not to start a pi$$ing contest about quality/reliability, etc. Honda, Subaru, etc may well be good and reliable machines, I still think it is a bad idea to send major money out of the country. Honda, Toyota, Subaru, Hyundai, et al are DESTROYING our national economy by taking away our jobs and manufacturing capacity. Our ability to defend our country is at risk as well.
Just another note....
Not to start a pi$$ing contest about quality/reliability, etc. Honda, Subaru, etc may well be good and reliable machines, I still think it is a bad idea to send major money out of the country. Honda, Toyota, Subaru, Hyundai, et al are DESTROYING our national economy by taking away our jobs and manufacturing capacity. Our ability to defend our country is at risk as well.
I realize that cost is a factor for him and others. Your solution would work without endangering anyone. What scares me (and I"m not a lineman) are those that jerry rig into the main box and say they"ll just throw switches. Your solution is just like using your genny out in the yard, connected to a single use, not backfeeding. Or like me using the 25/45KW pto gen out in the field, working on a plow or combine, etc.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
The main breaker and feeders lines are sized to the load of the house plus a certain percent (their is a calculation for this based on the type of load).
A 25kw generator puts out about 100 amps at 250 volts to fully supply your panel - a big expensive to buy and run generator.
In an emergency most folks only need a generator capable of running a few lights, TV and some other small appliances --- and and not all at the same time. A 3kw to 5kw generator will generally meet this need.
If your house has an electric hot water heater, stove, oven, dryer. A/C, etc your requirement goes up -- that is if you really need and intend to use them.
My 5kw generator will handle the lights, TV's, cell phone chargers and heat (hot water - oil fired furnace). ---- Hair dryers are banned
or
the electronic oven all by it's self.
If your conserve and rough it you might get by with 5kw possibly something less.
Take an inventory of what you absolutely need and progress on to all the nice to haves. Factor in that some items can be off when others are running.
See where you end up.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the generator the more fuel it will burn - you have to lug back from the gas station - and fuel could be hard to get when you need it
A 25kw generator puts out about 100 amps at 250 volts to fully supply your panel - a big expensive to buy and run generator.
In an emergency most folks only need a generator capable of running a few lights, TV and some other small appliances --- and and not all at the same time. A 3kw to 5kw generator will generally meet this need.
If your house has an electric hot water heater, stove, oven, dryer. A/C, etc your requirement goes up -- that is if you really need and intend to use them.
My 5kw generator will handle the lights, TV's, cell phone chargers and heat (hot water - oil fired furnace). ---- Hair dryers are banned
or
the electronic oven all by it's self.
If your conserve and rough it you might get by with 5kw possibly something less.
Take an inventory of what you absolutely need and progress on to all the nice to haves. Factor in that some items can be off when others are running.
See where you end up.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the generator the more fuel it will burn - you have to lug back from the gas station - and fuel could be hard to get when you need it
cannonball
Member
don't know if you are just saying it wrong or I'm reading it wrong, but if you have a 100 amp main means you have a 100 amps for each leg...
We got a Generac at Lowes that's around 6,000 watts. We just run a well pump, 'fridge and lights and TV (mama has to have her TV at night!). Thinking about also figuring out a way to power the oil burning boiler, it just has a circulating pump and a powered burner. I believe it's a Chinese engine but has always started and run well. Holds about 6 gallons of gas and will run for about 10 hrs. on that. Has folding handles and wheels but it's still a heavy unit to wheel around much.
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