I bought a metal building which I have to take apart and move. What do youall reccomend useing to mark the R-panel sheets. It will be hauled and stored exposed to weather for at least 30 days before it"s reassembled. Markal Red Riter/Silver streak welder"s pencil at $40 each has been suggested but I would prefer somthing cheaper if it works.
- Thread starter da.bees
- Start date
Stephen Newell
Well-known Member
You could mark the panels with a lumber crayon. Personally I wouldn't mark most of them. It's only around the doors the exact placement would matter. The spacing on your C's would be the same so all you would have to watch is which end is top or bottom on the walls and which end goes to the peak on the roof. Your not going to get the screw holes to match up so you would probably need new metal to metal screws anyway. The drill end on the screws work pretty bad re-using them.
jerrybigrig
Member
Why not get a rattle can of your favorite color(or the closest color) and put one stripe on this corner then two stripes on that corner and so on .... If you need to seperate whole walls use two or three paint stripes to designate each piece ???
I agree with Stephen, I've used Yellow lumber crayons before And they're cheap. When I've dismantled buildings, as I pull a panel off I mark it on the inside upper left corner "TL-1", "TL-2", "TL-3", etc. (for Top Left - 1, etc.) . Makes reassembly real easy. Also, don't try to reuse the old sheet-metal screws, use NEW self-tapping sheet-metal screws, you'll thank yourself later.
Good Luck
Doc :>)
Good Luck
Doc :>)
Go to you local car salvage yard. They have small little bottle of paint that has a roller just like a ball point pin easy to use and will not wash or swipe off. I always stand in front and say left L 1,2,3, on panels then R ,1,2,3 ec on sides. You will find top just take them and stack bottom to top and then just reverse on putting it back. The real thing is make photos inside so you will know how the little things like the spacers in the corners, and which way to turn the side purlins . Photos help a lot. Have done several and agree get NEW screws . Get cadium plated with neoprene washers.
I've recently done this and will share what I learned.Take lots of photos you will refer to them as you start to reasemble. Stack each wall section metal in identifiable stacks. Find or make long pallets to stack your metal on. Do lots of measuring inside. Note the height of all girts, framing around windows and doors. Check the dimensions of the purlins from the peak of the truss down to the eves. All of this so that you can reuse all of the screw/nail holes. If the bldg has insulation under the skin, use ppe to avoid inhaling the fiberglass/dust/molds that will be there. We rolled up and stored and reused. It is expensive to replace but makes a much tighter metal bldg. I hired experienced carpenter friends, rented a Lull to take down trusses and pull poles, paid for fuel to get it all home. Ours was 48x110. Took down, loaded and delivered 280 man hours. You will end up with a good bldg, at about 1/4 the cost. gobble
Jim in Ma.
Well-known Member
I have used yellow lumber crayons.
Also take plenty of photos and make a list of each phase as you take things apart.
I also separate each section into bundles. EX: South wall-West Wall and so on. That will make it easier to sort out when the time comes to put it back together.
Also take plenty of photos and make a list of each phase as you take things apart.
I also separate each section into bundles. EX: South wall-West Wall and so on. That will make it easier to sort out when the time comes to put it back together.
I'd build pallets for the tin before removing it. Start at one corner and work your way around the building, stacking the tin on the pallet in the order you take it off the building, and with the upper end of the sheets all oriented the same direction. Use a separate pallet for each side, or maybe put two sides on one pallet. Do the same with the roof. Remove one course completely before removing any tin from the second course. I wouldn't bother marking any of the tin or lumber.
In stall the tin in the reverse order that you remove it.
Do as Tom said and take a lot of measurements so you can re-use the screw holes in the tin. You don't want to re-use the holes in the lumber unless you use longer and heavier gauge screws.
In stall the tin in the reverse order that you remove it.
Do as Tom said and take a lot of measurements so you can re-use the screw holes in the tin. You don't want to re-use the holes in the lumber unless you use longer and heavier gauge screws.
flambeauone
Member
Nissan solid paint marker. We use them at work they last for years outside.
SparepartsTN
Member
If you happen to go into Wally World and look in the office/crafts section they sell "Elmer's Painters, opaque paint markers". They are like a magic marker except with paint inside, I keep a couple of white ones around for metal.
I had that happen a couple of times. What's unbelievabe to me is that if the sheets are seperated when there's been no rain for days,water is standing between the sheets. I will attempt to keep a tarp over it. I'm hoping 30 days doesn't harm it because I have no indoor storage until this project is complete.
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