oil burning engine

Why is it burning? Has it been sitting and the rings are stuck? If that's the case just let it sit with ATF in the cylinders and it will free up.

If it burns because the valve guide seals are shot you can extend the life by using some additive meant to swell seals. I have driven engines like that for years. Once they start that they don't seem to worsen so you just put up with it. It's also pretty easy to put new umbrella seals or guide seals in.

If it burns because it is old there's nothing that will help. Throwing a rebuild kit in it will help a good deal. You can't build up worn cylinders with liquid. If it isn't a heavy use machine you can buy lots of oil for the price of a rebuild. That's especially true if they rest of the tractor doesn't have enough redeeming qualities for a rebuild.
 
nothing really that I have found. once metal is worn there is nothing that tightens clearances up other than rebuilding. I have tried straight 40 oil in oil burners and sometimes STP and lucas oil treatment to make it more viscus but the oil still disappears.
proper maintenance is the best bet right from the start, and pays off in the end.
 
Depends on what engine and what is wrong with it.

I have had some luck with the heavier weight "High mileage oil" formulas that most oil brands sell.

Have had the HMO oil cut consumption by 50% in some cases and also make no difference in others.
 
"Mechanic-in-a-can" is a Bullwinkle solution: "That trick NEVER works!"

It's not a substitute for a ring job, or for valve seals, or gaskets and seals that are worn or failing.
 
FILL in the gaps in your info. Hard for us the help you help your self with out knowing want engine/machine your talking about. Could be as simple as one that say for years and has sticking rings over one that was run to hard to long and is just flat out old and tired
 
ANOTHER point... how many hours does he put on it in a year? If not too many and a few quarts of oil will get him through the year, a $$$$ OH is optional, depending upon how much spare $$$$ he has to throw at it and if he's an environmentalist.

If it's a hard-working machine and gets used a LOT, an OH is likely the only solution.
 
Many years ago when I lived in Redwood City, CA, a friend bought a '58 Ford Fairlane 500 convertible....It was a good looking car and had about 65,000 miles on it and ran good, was pretty tight in it's steering and suspension and the brakes and transmission seemed just fine.....But, it burned oil, like a quart every 400-500 miles, and it smoked some too...blue, all the time, power on, power off. I had had an old '49 pickup that burned a lot of oil and I put Alemite CD-2 for low milage cars in it and it burned about 1/4 as much oil after that, so I suggested CD-2 for my friends car. He drained the old oil put in 2 cans of CD-2 and filled it up with Quaker State 20 and drove it hard down to LA and around, Had to add 1 quart in that time. Drained the oil and put in new and that Ford used about a quart every 1500-2000 miles after that, no smoke, ran perfect with lots of power (332 four barrel) for the next 4 years when he traded it off. Rings must have been sticky I guess.....
 

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