Check your furnace filter

rrlund

Well-known Member
All the talk about high heating prices,just a reminder. I checked my furnace filter this morning and it was plugged up bad.

I woke up about 3am and layed there until about 5:30 listening to the furnace run almost non stop. I could barely feel any air coming out of the registers. I pulled the filter right out as soon as I got up this morning. The time that it's off hasn't changed much,but it only runs about half as long to get the temp back up so it'll shut off. I can stand over the registers now and it'll about blow my hat right off my head.
 
My filter is easy to get to so I check mine several times a month in winter. I use 2 to 3 filters a season.
 
Mine has a permanent filter that you have to wash out. Took a little doing to get it clean. I'm going to leave it out until it dries good.
 
The filter in mine is a real pain . As you have to make it out of a roll of fiberglass materiel . Has to be cut and fitted to a metal frame 52x28 inches that is in a u shape . Gloves long sleeve shirt and mask are needed . Getting harder to find the stuff. This year took lots of looking before i found one roll. The rolls are 36x240 and not cheap.
 
Thanks for the reminder. Dixie thinks she is dusting with one of those feather dusters. Fact is it just makes it air born and it plugs the filters. Claims I don't know what I am talking about.
 
I don't even know. One of those things I don't even think much about. I'm guessing it's been at least a year. Like I said,it's a permanent reusable filter with a pretty coarse mesh,but even that was plugged. The wife had to soak it in the bath tub for a few minutes to get all the crud loose and out of there.
 



You must have the same furnace I have. It is old, I think the original one in this house. House was built in mid 1970's.

I had better go buy a roll of the stuff as I only have enough for one more change. Just change the filter about a week ago.

Gene
 
I have Two cleanable filters. I blow them out twice a year and wash them in the Summer.
While you are at it, it might be more important to clean your [b:5a3e9ab07d]CLOTHES DRYER VENT![/b:5a3e9ab07d]
 
kept hearing mine pop on twice during heating cyle, changed filter, needed it anyway, found poping problem is needing to clean burners now.
 
I try to remember to replace mine once a month or so depending on ow much the furnace runs. I also keep a cut off bleach bottle filled with water sitting on the filter that helps keep moisture in the air
 
Remember to check the vent to your clothes dryer.

A couple of years ago, noticed the dryer was running but the louvers on the vent were not open. Found that over the years lint had built up on the louvers, clogging the air flow from the dryer. Pulled out a wad of lint bigger than a soft ball and it was very, very warm. If the clog had gotten much bigger, tighter, could have started a fire.
 
Ya,I end up pulling lint out of that thing quite often. The vent through the wall is right next to the back door. If I see anything poking out of it,I crouch down and make sure it's all out. The wife pulls the screen out of the dryer itself about every other load.
 
Just had my heating guy out to replace the mother (@&##!!! board on my gas furnace. He told me that when the temps get really cold with wind to just pull the filter out for the night. Keeps the plenum from overheating and that shuts the flame down.
 
I told the wife I'm leaving this one out for at least a few day until we're back out of these sub zero temps. Instead of running on and on,I noticed this morning that the fan is actually starting up after it burns for a few minutes,then shutting off while it reheats,then comes back on,so it must be moving air pretty darned quick. That's the way I want it.
 
(quoted from post at 18:22:51 01/27/14) Ya,I end up pulling lint out of that thing quite often. The vent through the wall is right next to the back door. If I see anything poking out of it,I crouch down and make sure it's all out. The wife pulls the screen out of the dryer itself about every other load.
I do the same thing but once a year, I go to the basement and disconnect the flexible aluminum pipe and use an electric leaf blower to blow out 14 foot metal exhaust pipe.
Of course this might not be necessary with shorter piping?
 
YEp it is old , It replaced BERTHA the old coal burning monster in 68 . My grand father could no longer take the shoveling of coal and ashes or the handling of the ashes . He was 68 at that time and already had three heart attacks . This house has been in the family since 1927 . I know of one other furnace like mine and it belongs to a Farmer friend . I was suppose to get him a roll when i found it , BUT they only had the one and had no idea when they would get in anymore. The sales guy said NOBODY USES THAT STUFF , well ah yes i need it and john Boy needs a roll . So that is two that i know of .
 
What do ya'll think about the pleated paper filters? Seems that's about all I can find anymore.

I prefer the thick fiberglass ones myself. They flow much more air, and all I'm trying to do is keep the AC coil clean, not purify the air in the house.

Any opinions?
 
(quoted from post at 19:06:56 01/27/14) What do ya'll think about the pleated paper filters? Seems that's about all I can find anymore.

I prefer the thick fiberglass ones myself. They flow much more air, and all I'm trying to do is keep the AC coil clean, not purify the air in the house.

Any opinions?

I think it is much cheaper to purchase a cleanable/washable filter. Mine are super well made and I can tell no difference in air flow when the filters are out being cleaned.
Mine are over five years old.
 
We used to use the course fiberglass type. Both washable and throw away type. The pleated paper filters do a better job of filtering. The pleated fabric type do an even better job but they can be pricey.
Your best option may be to buy the cheap pleated paper filters and change them every 3 weeks.
 
Tried the high price fiberglass and reusable but Rural King has the 20X30 I use on sale for .99 ever now and then. I just stock up and change about ever 3 weeks.
 
There is a lot of misunderstanding within this thread. First and formost get rid of the fiberglass and washables,they don't work even if you change/wash them every day. Those that have "hammock" filters like Tractor Vet,Home Depot Supply carries rolls of polyeaster material that do'es a far better job than f glass,doesn't irratate skin and no mask needed while working with it. In Vet's case I would order 30" or 36" width so the excess seals ends. You will not find it in stores so ask customer service to special order it for you. If they will not order it,go on line to Home Depot Supply. When you see the online catalog you may start ordering a bunch of things from them because they have tons of items the stores never heard of much less carry in stock. Those with regular filters might take a look also because pricing and selection is realy good on case lots of 12. I wager that if I opened your air handlers,the evaporator coils wouldn't be visiable for the lint and dirt covering them. For the few who are still with me on this,if you watch what you are doing,you can inspect the evaporator coil and clean it if needed. If the air handler is in the attic,take my advice and do it before summer,it's da%@# hot up thar. You need only loosen the case enough so you can see with a flashlight if the INTAKE SIDE of coil looks exactly like a laundry dryer filter. If it needs cleaning,you will need a wire or large stiff plastic brush to pull lint off. Tilt the brush so one edge is touching coil then slowly pull it abuot 8" while rolling the brush. The lint will stick in the bristles where you comb it out and repeat the short strokes until the bulk of lint is removed. Hint,If you can talk momma out of an old round hair brush,it works real good for the secound going over. A shop vac will round up loose dirt. If you can gain access to the discharge side,pass a light accross one side while looking into oppisite side to see if crap is between fins. If you blow it out with air,vacum what you can from inside case. You can improve the job by 10 to 20% with evaporator coil cleaner. CAUTION CAUTION Regardless what you are told,do not use condenser cleaner on an evaporator. It will destroy the fins. Try to come by special evap cleaner and follow directions on the jug. In a pinch I have used diluted household detergent,just make sure it's safe for aluminum and copper. You need only spray it on with a garden sprayer and rinse with clean water in same sprayer unless coolig is running alot so that condensate will rinse it. There is a 50% chance all the mess coming out of the coil will plug the condensate drain so make certain auxiller drain is open and keep a eye on it. Going back to blow out drains a time or two is also good. If you run into trouble or have a question,feel free to email me since this thread will be buried within 24 hours. Any ???? today?
 
(quoted from post at 21:19:42 01/27/14) There is a lot of misunderstanding within this thread. First and formost get rid of the fiberglass and washables,they don't work even if you change/wash them every day. Those that have "hammock" filters like Tractor Vet,Home Depot Supply carries rolls of polyeaster material that do'es a far better job than f glass,doesn't irratate skin and no mask needed while working with it. In Vet's case I would order 30" or 36" width so the excess seals ends. You will not find it in stores so ask customer service to special order it for you. If they will not order it,go on line to Home Depot Supply. When you see the online catalog you may start ordering a bunch of things from them because they have tons of items the stores never heard of much less carry in stock. Those with regular filters might take a look also because pricing and selection is realy good on case lots of 12. I wager that if I opened your air handlers,the evaporator coils wouldn't be visiable for the lint and dirt covering them. For the few who are still with me on this,if you watch what you are doing,you can inspect the evaporator coil and clean it if needed. If the air handler is in the attic,take my advice and do it before summer,it's da%@# hot up thar. You need only loosen the case enough so you can see with a flashlight if the INTAKE SIDE of coil looks exactly like a laundry dryer filter. If it needs cleaning,you will need a wire or large stiff plastic brush to pull lint off. Tilt the brush so one edge is touching coil then slowly pull it abuot 8" while rolling the brush. The lint will stick in the bristles where you comb it out and repeat the short strokes until the bulk of lint is removed. Hint,If you can talk momma out of an old round hair brush,it works real good for the secound going over. A shop vac will round up loose dirt. If you can gain access to the discharge side,pass a light accross one side while looking into oppisite side to see if crap is between fins. If you blow it out with air,vacum what you can from inside case. You can improve the job by 10 to 20% with evaporator coil cleaner. CAUTION CAUTION Regardless what you are told,do not use condenser cleaner on an evaporator. It will destroy the fins. Try to come by special evap cleaner and follow directions on the jug. In a pinch I have used diluted household detergent,just make sure it's safe for aluminum and copper. You need only spray it on with a garden sprayer and rinse with clean water in same sprayer unless coolig is running alot so that condensate will rinse it. There is a 50% chance all the mess coming out of the coil will plug the condensate drain so make certain auxiller drain is open and keep a eye on it. Going back to blow out drains a time or two is also good. If you run into trouble or have a question,feel free to email me since this thread will be buried within 24 hours. Any ???? today?
Excellent post but I am respectably in disagreement about the cleanable filters.
I have two and have followed the cleaning suggestions. They were not cheap. If my memory is correct one was $35.?? and the other was $28??. I was shown a crossection and they were made of layers of filtering material--foam and fiberglass. I think there were six parts including the outside screen wire. I have used this same type filter in the last two homes I have lived in and one had filters that were at least 5 years old, and still looked and worked like new.
More then one HVAC technician has advised to save money and buy these. When they cleaned my coils they used "cascade" dish detergent.
With paper filters, I had to clean inside coils every year, or two, but with the filters I have now, tech stated they were clean and didn't need cleaning after four years.
So, I figure they are working for me.
 
What are you talking about "evaporator" and all that stuff? I've got a forced air oil furnace.
 
Guess I am the odd man out here. I use the high efficiency MERV 11 or 13 disposable filters. When I replaced my 20+ year old furnace the coils were clean and when I asked if the ducts needed clean I g, they said no, they were very clean. They are expensive thou arid $20 each but last 3 months or more each.
 
I write on the calendar 3 months ahead of the day I change the filters.I think with all this cold weather 3 months might be too long.
 
That is the expected results when good filters are used. In addition,the air is healther,house dusting is less,and there is energy savings. Just for the record,$8 or $10 filters do about as well except taking pollen and mold spores out of the air which in itself is worth $20 to people with sensitive respatory systems( probibly more than 50% of us over 60.) In addition to using a good filter you can hedge the benifits even farthur. When replacing the air handler insist on a 25x25 or 20x25 filter holder. Simple math tells us the 20x25 has over twice the suface of 12x20 or 16x14 which translates to lasts twice as long. I fabricated holders that hold 2 20x25 filters 3" apart when installing my units. I use a $4 paper pleat in first one air passes through and $15 pleated high effeciency downstream. I get 3 months out of the $4 one and 6 months easy from the $15 filter because it has no dust or lint on it,only black stuff I assume I would rather not breath. To judge when a pleated filter is due,non too soon nor too late,hold it up to weak light. After several days you will note only about 25% of deepest part of crease restricts light while the other 75% of high points are clean as new. As time passes,the coverage creeps toward the peaks of pleats. Just as light is passing unrestricted 1/8th inch on each side of peak is time to change.
 
(quoted from post at 16:00:29 01/27/14)
(quoted from post at 21:19:42 01/27/14)
Excellent post but I am respectably in disagreement about the cleanable filters.
I have two and have followed the cleaning suggestions. They were not cheap. If my memory is correct one was $35.?? and the other was $28??. I was shown a crossection and they were made of layers of filtering material--foam and fiberglass. I think there were six parts including the outside screen wire. I have used this same type filter in the last two homes I have lived in and one had filters that were at least 5 years old, and still looked and worked like new.
More then one HVAC technician has advised to save money and buy these. When they cleaned my coils they used "cascade" dish detergent.
With paper filters, I had to clean inside coils every year, or two, but with the filters I have now, tech stated they were clean and didn't need cleaning after four years.
So, I figure they are working for me.

That you found exceptional reuseable filters I can't despute. There can always exceptions but this can state with complete atthority,if you had to clean coils every 2 years behind even low priced pleated filters,the filters didn't fit or you had air leaking into the return plenum between filter and coil. It's safe to surmise whoever was cleaning the coils wasn't trained or they would have found either problem.
 
(quoted from post at 01:03:06 01/28/14)
(quoted from post at 16:00:29 01/27/14)
(quoted from post at 21:19:42 01/27/14)
Excellent post but I am respectably in disagreement about the cleanable filters.
I have two and have followed the cleaning suggestions. They were not cheap. If my memory is correct one was $35.?? and the other was $28??. I was shown a crossection and they were made of layers of filtering material--foam and fiberglass. I think there were six parts including the outside screen wire. I have used this same type filter in the last two homes I have lived in and one had filters that were at least 5 years old, and still looked and worked like new.
More then one HVAC technician has advised to save money and buy these. When they cleaned my coils they used "cascade" dish detergent.
With paper filters, I had to clean inside coils every year, or two, but with the filters I have now, tech stated they were clean and didn't need cleaning after four years.
So, I figure they are working for me.

That you found exceptional reuseable filters I can't despute. There can always exceptions but this can state with complete atthority,if you had to clean coils every 2 years behind even low priced pleated filters,the filters didn't fit or you had air leaking into the return plenum between filter and coil. It's safe to surmise whoever was cleaning the coils wasn't trained or they would have found either problem.

I should have stated that I cleaned coils every year because that was included in the annual service. I didn't clean, the service man did. This company installed the entire HVAC system and serviced it. And I did not buy the filters from them. Been 14 years with no problems.
It is evident, in your post, that you are very knowledgeable on this subject and I fully understand your skepticism, but I like my filters enough that they have been in my last three homes.
 

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